Thats more than impressive and workmanship
Builds "The Cucumber" build. Ultimate 80-series. 1HD-FT, H152F (world's first), PTO. Titanium and carbon fiber galore. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TurboDennis
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TurboDennis
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- #142
Another thing i did in preparation for the Utah trip in May was installing a boost/EGT gauge. I felt that i needed Turbo/EGT gauges ever since i put the diesel engine in, but i really hated the non-original look of various gauge solutions on the market. That was until i saw the neat offering by @Lutz Auto . An all-in-one display that replaces the useless factory clock, can be configured to display a whole bunch of things, and doesn't look out of place. Awesome product!
Most people install the EGT probe into the top of exhaust manifold where all the collectors merge. This is a good location, and you can drill/tap the hole without removing the turbo or the manifold. However i didn't like it, because I would have to either ditch or hack up the factory heat shield. So i found a better way - putting the probe in from the front of the manifold, just before the turbo flange. You must remove the manifold for this, and drilling/tapping the hole is trickier, but i didn't mind because the end result is much cleaner/discrete looking, and you can reuse the factory heat shield without having to modify anything.
There were also a few more things i wanted to do while the turbo/manifold were off. First, i had a NOS OEM turbo center section (which i believe is now discontinued) that i wanted to install as part of my ongoing "baselining on steroids" project.
At this point i knew that i wouldn't be able to finish the intercooler in time for the trip, but while the turbo was out, i did something else to facilitate the install later - clocking the compressor housing of the turbo to a different angle so that it points towards the fender well (instead of up). The reason for this is because l want to keep the "Turbo" intake pipe (for clean factory look), and the only way to do this is to clock the compressor housing of the turbo back, so that there is room between the outlet and the intake pipe for new intercooler piping. Both hot and cold intercooler pipes will be routed through the fender well (under the airbox) and will be out of sight. I fabbed up a temporary pipe to connect the clocked turbo to the intake pipe (which will be replaced with titanium intercooler pipes soon).
Most people install the EGT probe into the top of exhaust manifold where all the collectors merge. This is a good location, and you can drill/tap the hole without removing the turbo or the manifold. However i didn't like it, because I would have to either ditch or hack up the factory heat shield. So i found a better way - putting the probe in from the front of the manifold, just before the turbo flange. You must remove the manifold for this, and drilling/tapping the hole is trickier, but i didn't mind because the end result is much cleaner/discrete looking, and you can reuse the factory heat shield without having to modify anything.
There were also a few more things i wanted to do while the turbo/manifold were off. First, i had a NOS OEM turbo center section (which i believe is now discontinued) that i wanted to install as part of my ongoing "baselining on steroids" project.
At this point i knew that i wouldn't be able to finish the intercooler in time for the trip, but while the turbo was out, i did something else to facilitate the install later - clocking the compressor housing of the turbo to a different angle so that it points towards the fender well (instead of up). The reason for this is because l want to keep the "Turbo" intake pipe (for clean factory look), and the only way to do this is to clock the compressor housing of the turbo back, so that there is room between the outlet and the intake pipe for new intercooler piping. Both hot and cold intercooler pipes will be routed through the fender well (under the airbox) and will be out of sight. I fabbed up a temporary pipe to connect the clocked turbo to the intake pipe (which will be replaced with titanium intercooler pipes soon).
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Does @Lutz Auto have a link to that pyro? Probably going to run one on my rig. Very cool. BTW I like how you clocked the turbo for the intercooler, good out of the box mindset.
TurboDennis
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- #144
Thanks!
All their products are listed here (im not sponsored by them in any way btw):
Love your build, but pray you never have a battery fire. Google “thermal runaway.”
TurboDennis
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- #147
Thanks! I researched this topic before going with this battery setup, and i have concluded that it's not a concern at all:
- LiFePo4 chemistry batteries (like the one im using) are far less susceptible to thermal runaway in general
-As i've said earlier, the factory battery boxes are very well insulated from engine bay heat. I have a battery temperature probe inside my pack which I monitored closely, and the battery temperature never goes higher than 1-2 degrees above ambient air temperature.
-Batteries that im using are rated at 1C constant discharge rate (meaning 302A current draw). The battery management system that im using is capped at 150A. This means that at most, the batteries will be discharging at half of their maximum safe rate, so i expect very little heat to be produced as a result.
- Finally, the BMS will shut off charging/discharging of the batteries based on the temperature probe input WELL before the temperature reaches anywhere near the "thermal runaway danger zone".
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Seems like you've done your research. But unless I'm missing something, what these systems do is constantly manage a potentially disastrous situation that results from an unalterable property of the current batteries themselves. Have you considered what might happen if the management system fails, or the battery itself is damaged in a wreck--particularly one where you cannot immediately exit the vehicle? Sure; probably never happen. Just like I'll probably never need that bull bar up front. Not to be all doom-and-gloomish; I look forward to seeing your carbon fiber storage system etc. But that's probably not going to kill anyone if things go sideways. And that's kind of my first criterion...
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TurboDennis
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- #149
Well, i can't really see how a battery pack like this is any more dangerous than the lead-acid battery that sits in that box from the factory. Even if the management system fails, nothing bad would happen because there won't be any electrical systems that can draw more than BMS limit anyway. And there is still gonna be a separate (from BMS) 150A circuit breaker.
As far as being in a wreck goes - sure that could probably cause a fire. But so could the factory dual batteries that would normally sit in those boxes. If anything, the chance of that happening with my setup is smaller because:
a) My battery has no unprotected wiring outside of the battery box (unlike the factory dual batteries that have a huge unprotected starter cable running across the radiator support and then along the inner fender to the starter.
b) Battery pack itself is fully enclosed in a metal, non combustible case.
I think you'll probably be ok. Lithium ion solid state vs lithium ion phosphate batteries are way different. Solid state lithium ion batteries do have thermal run away issues, lifepo4 batteries don't really have the same issue. This guy does plenty of testing on lithium batteries and solar. His last 2 demonstrate the difference between puncturing a lithium ion bs lifepo4 battery pack.
Hmmm, seems your research is more recent than mine. That does look way safer that the Lithium batteries I was looking at. According the video from @audi2nr, there's still a thermal runaway danger--but only at really high temperatures. So unless a wreck dumps gasoline on it or knocks it into a turbo exhaust, maybe they're okay after all.
As to dual battery setups, I favor running the wires along the firewall...
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Happened to come across this, someone talking about electric vehicles in Florida, given the hurricane. Haven't checked it out, and not sure which kind of lithium batteries they use, but food for thought regardless...
'Water, especially salt water, will fry those $20k batteries at 2800 degrees, producing hydrogen and chlorine gas.' So, basically, don't try to save your EV, and don't park it near the house.
What happens in LiFePO4s are submerged?
'Water, especially salt water, will fry those $20k batteries at 2800 degrees, producing hydrogen and chlorine gas.' So, basically, don't try to save your EV, and don't park it near the house.
What happens in LiFePO4s are submerged?
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I’m glad I ate mushrooms to catch up with this thread.
Dennis, been meaning to ask you, but who did you buy the battery cells from and are you happy with them?
TurboDennis
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- #155
Im not sure if this is good or bad.I’m glad I ate mushrooms to catch up with this thread.
There are a few suppliers in China who sell these cells. I did some research before buying, and went with "Shenzhen Basen" based on good reviews. Took a few months (like 3) to ship from China. Cells themselves are made by CATL (Tesla's supplier). They came well packaged and fully charged. No issues.
I have nothing negative to say about these cells at all. Im very happy with the setup - it's really astounding that you can cram so much capacity into the factory battery box. My custom pack has 6 times the usable capacity of a regular group 27 battery at approx the same weight, without taking up any cargo space. What's not to like?
Anyway, might as well post a small update. As I've said in the first post - my "baselining on steroids" plan for this truck involves replacing ALL important parts/systems with brand new OEM parts. Here are a few things i checked off the list recently:
Completely new power steering system. New (not rebuilt) steering box (p/n 44110-60212), steering dampener, high pressure hose and reservoir (pump was replaced a couple of years ago).
One of the advantages of using a brand new steering box (aside from the obvious) is that it already comes from Toyota with the "105 series upgraded sector shaft", which has more splines and is stronger.
New HDJ100 3.0KW 12V starter (28100-17081). A little bummed that it's "Made in Thailand", especially considering the price.
The rest of the cooling system parts - fan, fan clutch, shroud. Radiator, water pump and all the small parts were replaced earlier.
Went on a small camping trip with my daughter on Labor day weekend. Hoping to squeeze another trip in a couple of weeks before putting the truck away for the winter.
[QUOTE="TurboDennis,
There are a few suppliers in China who sell these cells. I did some research before buying, and went with "Shenzhen Basen" based on good reviews. Took a few months (like 3) to ship from China. Cells themselves are made by CATL (Tesla's supplier). They came well packaged and fully charged. No issues.
I have nothing negative to say about these cells at all. Im very happy with the setup - it's really astounding that you can cram so much capacity into the factory battery box. My custom pack has 6 times the usable capacity of a regular group 27 battery at approx the same weight, without taking up any cargo space. What's not to like?
[/QUOTE]
Thanks so much. Gonna take the plunge and not sure if I can replicate you're awesome case, but gonna give it a shot.
There are a few suppliers in China who sell these cells. I did some research before buying, and went with "Shenzhen Basen" based on good reviews. Took a few months (like 3) to ship from China. Cells themselves are made by CATL (Tesla's supplier). They came well packaged and fully charged. No issues.
I have nothing negative to say about these cells at all. Im very happy with the setup - it's really astounding that you can cram so much capacity into the factory battery box. My custom pack has 6 times the usable capacity of a regular group 27 battery at approx the same weight, without taking up any cargo space. What's not to like?
[/QUOTE]
Thanks so much. Gonna take the plunge and not sure if I can replicate you're awesome case, but gonna give it a shot.
Sooo, 'putting the truck away for the winter.' Does that mean away-away and no more cool posts, or in-the-garage-and-still-being-tinkered-with?Im not sure if this is good or bad.
There are a few suppliers in China who sell these cells. I did some research before buying, and went with "Shenzhen Basen" based on good reviews. Took a few months (like 3) to ship from China. Cells themselves are made by CATL (Tesla's supplier). They came well packaged and fully charged. No issues.
I have nothing negative to say about these cells at all. Im very happy with the setup - it's really astounding that you can cram so much capacity into the factory battery box. My custom pack has 6 times the usable capacity of a regular group 27 battery at approx the same weight, without taking up any cargo space. What's not to like?
Anyway, might as well post a small update. As I've said in the first post - my "baselining on steroids" plan for this truck involves replacing ALL important parts/systems with brand new OEM parts. Here are a few things i checked off the list recently:
Completely new power steering system. New (not rebuilt) steering box (p/n 44110-60212), steering dampener, high pressure hose and reservoir (pump was replaced a couple of years ago).
One of the advantages of using a brand new steering box (aside from the obvious) is that it already comes from Toyota with the "105 series upgraded sector shaft", which has more splines and is stronger.View attachment 3140890
View attachment 3140891
New HDJ100 3.0KW 12V starter (28100-17081). A little bummed that it's "Made in Thailand", especially considering the price.
View attachment 3140888
The rest of the cooling system parts - fan, fan clutch, shroud. Radiator, water pump and all the small parts were replaced earlier.
View attachment 3140889
Went on a small camping trip with my daughter on Labor day weekend. Hoping to squeeze another trip in a couple of weeks before putting the truck away for the winter.
View attachment 3140892
Dennis,
Beautiful build. I went through a similar build 4 hearts ago and already put 70K miles on the truck. NO ISSUES. You would love it. One thing I recommend is to add an intercooler. It will save the engine long run and it will run happier. Once installed, I can climb the Sierras at 75mph 5th gear in cruise control and EGT does not exceed 875F. I installed a PDI from AUZ but after that installed a custom (nicer then PDI) on a 40 w/1HDT, a 62 w/1HDT and now a troopy with a 1HDT for 1/3 of the price.
By the way, did you install a cruise control?
Cheers mate. Again, beautiful work you do.
Beautiful build. I went through a similar build 4 hearts ago and already put 70K miles on the truck. NO ISSUES. You would love it. One thing I recommend is to add an intercooler. It will save the engine long run and it will run happier. Once installed, I can climb the Sierras at 75mph 5th gear in cruise control and EGT does not exceed 875F. I installed a PDI from AUZ but after that installed a custom (nicer then PDI) on a 40 w/1HDT, a 62 w/1HDT and now a troopy with a 1HDT for 1/3 of the price.
By the way, did you install a cruise control?
Cheers mate. Again, beautiful work you do.
TurboDennis
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- Thread starter
- #160
Sooo, 'putting the truck away for the winter.' Does that mean away-away and no more cool posts, or in-the-garage-and-still-being-tinkered-with?
My plan was to do a bunch of work to it over the winter. But that plan has failed miserably - wife made me prioritize random household projects that i've been putting off for years. I barely did anything to the truck at all over the winter.. I hate doing major work to it during the "driving season" because this season is short here as it is, and having downtime in the summer sucks. The good thing is that the truck doesn't really NEED anything at this point, (as it's 100% up to date on all maintenance), so i'll try to plan the optional work to minimize the downtime.
Good weather is finally here, and i'll be getting it out of winter hibernation this week. I still have a bunch of "content" to post from the previous year though.
Thanks Ofer. Sorry for not replying earlier - i missed your post somehow. I've been following your build as well, and was very impressed by it! I will actually be "borrowing" one of your ideas - using engine coolant to heat water (with a few improvements).
Intercooler is the next major thing on the the to-do list. Im not happy with any off-the-shelf offerings, so will be doing full custom as well. Garrett core with titanium piping, with both pipes running through the wheel well (instead of the typical routing through the rad support). I posted some pics of the parts in post #127
As for cruise, yes, i have it installed and working. I swapped the complete wiring in the whole truck to correct 1996 LHD 1HD-FT/MT wiring, so everything related to cruise just plugged right in and worked (including clutch switch).
Did you opt for the bearing for the h151 for the input shaft?
Also do you have a part number for those m8 bolts you mentioned?
I’m looking at doing the h151 to h152 upgrade
Yes, i installed a new bearing. When removing the bearing from the input shaft, it has to be pressed off using the outer race, which theoretically makes the bearing non-reusable. However the thing is extremely beefy, and it didn't take a lot of pressure to come off, so I'm 99% sure it would've been OK to reuse.
Not sure which M8 bolts you're referring to?
