Build The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota

[RWBeringer4x4]

The Teardown:

Knocked back the staked-washers on the warn hubs (The 3 that were still present). Most simply broke off, as they had, apparently, the last time the PO was in there.

Took the Face off with an allen wrench:

Removed the C-clip/snap ring:

Backed out the hub bolts, and pulled off the hub body. Discovered permatex/FIPG on EVERYTHING. Every hub bolt, and then the inside of the hub:

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Removed the drum, which was actually pretty easy. There was no retaining screw, so it was just a matter of smacking it with a deadblow to break the rust bond until it came loose:

Then I removed the Hub nuts, star washer, and thrust washer, and pulled the hub:

Next, I removed the spindle-ring. It definitely appears that someone had been in to replace the wheel cylinders in the passenger side at one point. These looked almost new:

Disconnected the brake lines to the backing plates. Removed caps from Master Cylinder, let them drain:

Removed the backing plate entirely:

Now here is something a little different...I have been following this video, on youtube, for the hub teardown:



In this video, the spindle is clearly IN FRONT of the backing plate, and comes off with the backing plate. In my case, it was BEHIND the backing plate, sealed to the knuckle. Which is correct? I'll need to get this orientation right when I reassemble with 60-series parts....

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

This brought me to the end of Saturday. Knuckles, Spindles, and Steering still to come off:

At this point, I got distracted trying to help get the correct fuel/air/spark delivery in my future father-in-law's 1931 Model AA. He got the flat-4 running for the first time since he bought it, and most likely, for the first time in about 25 years:



If you've never messed with one of these (super old) engines, they are a challenge! Everything is manual, you set the advance, choke, fuel delivery, spark, etc. "on the fly" at start-up, and adjust as the engine comes up to temperature. It's running too lean/overheating right now, but it's a step in the right direction. Quite a challenge, and makes me appreciate the 35-year-newer technology in my land cruiser!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Sunday I was back at it for a couple of hours:

Used my Tie-Rod-End puller to knock the tie-rod ends out of the steering arm. This was required on the passenger side. On the driver's side, the tie rod end literally fell out

Unbolted the steering arms. Brass Drift on the knuckle studs to raise the cone washers:

Unbolt the wipers:

And the whole Hub/Spindle/Wheel bearing assembly comes right off. Then it's just a matter of lining up the flats on the birfield with the flats in the housing, and pulling:

Only point of major concern here is that, on both sides, my trunnion bearings literally disintegrated when I pulled them (see one sitting in the lower left corner of the shot above)...Inner races are jammed to the steering arm, rollers simply fell out, and the cage seemed damaged. My passenger side tire had shown some slight play which led me to believe there might be a problem - but nothing suggested the bearings were THAT shot. The rollers were still pretty smooth, they just didn't hold in the cage anymore...No apparent damage to the races, either - nor was there any burned grease.

All in all, this took about 4 - 5 hours to do both sides. I started having flashbacks of all the cleaning I did over the winter. I left all these covered in grease, for now, to prevent rust, and tossed them all in a paint bucket. Not sure what the market is for drum brake axle parts these days. I may post them up in the classifieds and see if anyone is interested. For now, it's all over but the grinding!

I intend to pull the axle housing entirely, clean it up, check the differential for damage, proper backlash, pinion preload, etc. I'll also be resealing the diffs, and probably swapping front and rear.

 

[melvinjo]

Howdy I haven't taken the time to go thru all of the replies

1. I have a 350 conversion on my 67 WHat I have found is that alot of conversions were poorly done back in the day. Just be sure your motor mounts are solid and good to go

2. Somebody went thru a little effort on the 283 : They must have had one on hand they werent using Although it was very popular engine back in the day, (50's. early 60's) no one really used them after the 327 and 350 came out, back in the very late 50's -early 60s to now

3. If considering a 283 rebuild, Id go a crate 350: A plane jane, GM crate, carb, advertised at 290 HP They come with a warranty, and frankly, a complete rebuild on a 283 will cost as much, maybe more, than a brand new 350 Plus a rebuild typcially doesnt come with a warranty

Most of your bolt ons will go right on a 350, (headers, alt, water pump) to include your transmission.

 

[melvinjo]

As far as the q jet goes. Just get another. 600 cfm, if you go the 283 will do it. A rebuild on a q jet is way more than just parts in a rebuild kit. The main throttle shafts are usually worn, causing vacuum leaks/uneven idles that you will never be able to get tuned right

Summit/jegs sells q jets, or go with edlebrocks. Just dont pay for more CFM than you need. a 600 will do your 283 right, as well as a stock 350. A 600 wont be too big for your 283. Carbs are demand devices

I would do a casting number on your 283 You never know what it might have come out of. If its vette 283, it could be worth some money. Lotsa guys out there that restore them pay big money for a numbers matching engine

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Howdy I haven't taken the time to go thru all of the replies

1. I have a 350 conversion on my 67 WHat I have found is that alot of conversions were poorly done back in the day. Just be sure your motor mounts are solid and good to go

2. Somebody went thru a little effort on the 283 : They must have had one on hand they werent using Although it was very popular engine back in the day, (50's. early 60's) no one really used them after the 327 and 350 came out, back in the very late 50's -early 60s to now

3. If considering a 283 rebuild, Id go a crate 350: A plane jane, GM crate, carb, advertised at 290 HP They come with a warranty, and frankly, a complete rebuild on a 283 will cost as much, maybe more, than a brand new 350 Plus a rebuild typcially doesnt come with a warranty

Most of your bolt ons will go right on a 350, (headers, alt, water pump) to include your transmission.

Hey Mevin,

Thanks for the feedback. I'd say my conversion was done at a "poor-to-average" level. The mounts seem solid but too far forward, causing a lot of issues with driveline location throughout. It will eventually need to be corrected. In the event the 283 dies on me, or requires a rebuild, I will most likely drop in a crate 350, as you mentioned. Right now, since the 283 seems to perform well enough (aside from leaking oil from every orifice) I'm leaving it alone in favor of some of the other, more significant disasters performed by the PO.

The next major project will most likely be a new bellhousing/clutch (mine is an old lakewood scattershield, and a complete mess). At this time I'll most likely address the transmission as well, and possibly relocate the engine...That's a little way down the road at this point!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

As far as the q jet goes. Just get another. 600 cfm, if you go the 283 will do it. A rebuild on a q jet is way more than just parts in a rebuild kit. The main throttle shafts are usually worn, causing vacuum leaks/uneven idles that you will never be able to get tuned right

Summit/jegs sells q jets, or go with edlebrocks. Just dont pay for more CFM than you need. a 600 will do your 283 right, as well as a stock 350. A 600 wont be too big for your 283. Carbs are demand devices

I would do a casting number on your 283 You never know what it might have come out of. If its vette 283, it could be worth some money. Lotsa guys out there that restore them pay big money for a numbers matching engine

I can tell you're reading through this from page 1 - good luck! The Q-jet was rebuilt to the point where it is working, and not leaking gas into the engine. That was dubbed "good enough" for the time being. I've heard horror stories about re-manned Q-jets, and more often than not, the throttle shafts, leaky welch plugs, etc. have not been addressed. I took care of just about everything in my rebuild (new welch plugs, etc.) EXCEPT for the throttle shafts. The body of the carb is warped, so I have idle/vacuum issues regardless. The Q-jet is the carb of choice for off-road due to its ability to run "off-camber" but I may end up going 350/TBI - I didn't want to waste too much money on the engine aside from getting it running before I decided the route I wanted to take.

 

[melvinjo]

I agree on remanned q jets. Myself, I run a ebrock. I live at 9500 feet, and typically travel between 10-13000 feet on the weekends here in Co
You can bet I run leaner jets. But I have never had off camber issue with one. TBI or FI is certianly is the way to go, its just a little expensive.

But in MO the only thing I don't care for in TBI or FI engines is when in the back country . Typically most TBI or FI engines don't have a "limp home" option: That is, if one compenent goes bad in a TBI or FI loop, you can still get home. Most will not function at all if part of the loop goes bad.

I have a 71 440 Barracuda with an aftermarket (FAST) FI and its the s--t, but it does have a limp home option

If you do go TBI, Id be sure it does have a limp home option: Nothing worse than being WAY out there, and you cant get home

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I agree on remanned q jets. Myself, I run a ebrock.

@melvinjo - Which edelbrock do you run, the 1901 quadrajet clone? I've heard they don't have some of the leaking/warping issues the Q-jets do. I've considered this - but they're tough to find!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Moving forward:

Shocks and driveshafts came out tonight. The shocks were in pretty rough shape. I could compress them, and they'd take a solid 15-20 second to return to length - if they moved at all without coaxing. They will be replaced by some Gabriel load leveler shocks I picked up from a fellow mudder. I've heard good and bad things about these shocks, (mostly that they ride is brutal) but the price was right!

I also disconnected the final piece mating axle to body: the soft line routed outside my frame and under, by the PO. Hard to see in the picture, but this line is celebrating its 39th birthday. That's a long enough career in my book, time to retire.

Now I'm debating how to more intelligently route the front brake hard and soft lines. I can see WHY the PO did what they did - the exhaust, engine mount, and steering make it difficult to route the brake line inside. That said, I MIGHT be able to squeeze it between the steering column, and the engine mount, the mount a tab to mate hard and soft lines on the inside frame rail. I have about 2-2.5 inches to play with - tight squeeze...

Having the brake lines on the outside of the frame rail just makes me nervous - seems like it would be easy to catch it on something...

Just noticed the hack weld job on that engine mount as well...

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I also finally got around to test fitting one of @Stumpalama's FJ62 axles, to determine how much I need to grinf. I'm actually really surprised by the fact that they ALMOST fit. It only needs a millimeter or two of clearancing. I thought there was significantly more grinding involved, based on some shots I've seen online. Haven't started grinding yet - hopefully soon!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Spent today ensuring that there was absolutely no going back to drum brakes for this truck. Photos of the grinding carnage:

Before:

After (Top and Bottom)

Both sides now happily accept fine spline birfields:

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

With that out of the way, I finally disconnected the U-bolts, and pulled the front axle:

I used a jack to slide is sideways, so the short side of the housing would pass through the passenger side spring. Then, with the help of my future father-in-law, walked the axle out the front:

Then we power washed it:

After which I pulled the differential. I was a little worried about what I'd find, given the hunks of metal that had been stuck on the drain plug, but I really can't find any gear damage to speak of:

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Decided to pull the pinion flange. I have new heavy-duty Marlin pinion seals that are going to get installed in place of whatever is in there now (look like stock seals). To make life easier, I made a "Diff holder" out of an old bucket. Oil leaks into the bucket (instead of all over everything) and you can easily transport it around by the bucket handles:

Is it normal for the pinion to "fall in" once the pinion nut has been removed? Any suggestions on what, aside from pinion pre-load, I should check while the diff is out?

 

[Stumpalama]

I think you meant to say the knuckle readily accepts fine spline birfs.

Yes, it is normal, since the pinion is installed from inside the diff. Just make sure you reinstall everything in the reverse order that you removed them.

Nice progress.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I think you meant to say the knuckle readily accepts fine spline birfs.

Nice progress.

Fixed it, and thanks! Feels good to be finally doing something, instead of just collecting parts.

 

[sggoat]

That j

This brought me to the end of Saturday. Knuckles, Spindles, and Steering still to come off:

View attachment 903414

At this point, I got distracted trying to help get the correct fuel/air/spark delivery in my future father-in-law's 1931 Model AA. He got the flat-4 running for the first time since he bought it, and most likely, for the first time in about 25 years:



If you've never messed with one of these (super old) engines, they are a challenge! Everything is manual, you set the advance, choke, fuel delivery, spark, etc. "on the fly" at start-up, and adjust as the engine comes up to temperature. It's running too lean/overheating right now, but it's a step in the right direction. Quite a challenge, and makes me appreciate the 35-year-newer technology in my land cruiser!

just sounds like the spark is a little too far retarded to me.(that can cause overheat)
This is one of the few engines that have a "classic" sound to them, that a lot of folks can recognize just by hearing them---Model A Ford, John Deere Model "A", Ford 80 Hp Flathead, 426 HEMI, Ford 427 w/dual overhead cams(chain driven), Ferrari Testarosa @ 14,000 rpms--just a few of my favorites(and just added--my 77 LC with the headers and no muffler)
I've owned 2 of these Model A's in my youth--they can rival the LC in their simplicity

If the engine is running a little lean--turn the carb adj screw(it should be a knob in the cabin clamped to the cowl, with a rod going straight to the carb)

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Something is causing a very lean condition, and more often than not, a nasty backfire. In fact the following weekend with further fooling around, he blew a hole in the exhaust manifold. It's also running with "open headers" right now, so it could be pulling air through the exhaust, which could be resulting in the lean condition and backfiring, as well. We now have to patch the manifold, or replace it, however, so, one step forward, two steps back! I'm just glad the Land Cruiser is a little less complicated!

 

[Vae Victus]

Looks like a beautiful day to work on the truck! You are lucky on your brakes that you got there alive.

Hey is that a Hudson I see in the driveway? (Sorry, catching up)