The Car Care Nut talks UR V8 blown head gaskets (6 Viewers)

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^Right.

If you want to know real HG issues, see Subarus.

One failure on a 200-series does not constitute an issue. CCN has figured out human nature and how fear mongering generates views. He use to be a sincere channel but has become affected to be another youtuber. Just look at this waste of time 9 pages in.
 
Galvanic corrosion - When stainless steel and aluminum are in direct contact, the stainless steel acts as the more noble metal and resists corrosion, while the aluminum corrodes faster.

Maybe I miss understand the point you made. Seems from this the head gasket made of stainless steel would maintain its integrity.
My point was, in agreeance, the gasket should resist corrosion, and erosion better that the head, therefore a gasket failure without an overheating event if unlikely.

Typically, a galvanic reaction happens with water and in an open system, not closed one, and not in a system with anticorrosive additives. But is is possible if there is a warp, and air can get to it.
 
How accurate is the gauge on the dash?
I’m thinking it doesn’t move quick enough to signal there is a problem.
 
Say I was in the forest for a few weeks and came out to this news. When I went in my 18 LX and 21 Tundra were some of the best and most trustworthy setups one could get with PROPER maintenance. Now it looks like I have to sell both... Even though actual real world personal info would tell me otherwise.

These social media types get some clicks and the algo blows it up. It is why I adore this site. BS and pearl clutching is usually sniffed out quick.

I'm going back to a bicycle. The inter webs are nuts
 
Temp gauge? If it is working properly.......milliseconds.
Toyota is well known for their water temp gauges being tuned to remove a lot of precision near operating temp.
 
Temp gauge? If it is working properly.......milliseconds.
I can 100% confirm the gauge reads the same from 180F to 205F. I'm sure there's a point in which it'll jump up, but the fact that you can have a 25F+ swing and the needle doesn't budge from just under half way makes it very hard to know if there's a problem until it's almost too late.
 
^Right.

If you want to know real HG issues, see Subarus.

One failure on a 200-series does not constitute an issue. CCN has figured out human nature and how fear mongering generates views. He use to be a sincere channel but has become affected to be another youtuber. Just look at this waste of time 9 pages in.
Completely agree. He started out with some solid videos but evolved into the standard click bait for views model.
 
I am not being a smart ass I am being sincere can you provide proof of this?
Search online for "toyota temp gauge resistor mod" and you'll see a cheap tweak that can be done to dozens of older toyota models (with more simple gauge setups than ours) that removes the dead zone in the middle of the gauge sweep.
 
I can 100% confirm the gauge reads the same from 180F to 205F. I'm sure there's a point in which it'll jump up, but the fact that you can have a 25F+ swing and the needle doesn't budge from just under half way makes it very hard to know if there's a problem until it's almost too late.
That does not mean that a reading of an increased temp would not be accurate in the danger zone. 180 to 205 on a gauge that does not read numbers might indicated a closed loop temp, or normal operating temp. Does your gauge show 5 degree increments? My 200 series does not. danger zone looks like around 300
 
That does not mean that a reading of an increased temp would not be accurate in the danger zone. 180 to 205 on a gauge that does not read numbers might indicated a closed loop temp, or normal operating temp. Does your gauge show 5 degree increments? My 200 series does not. danger zone looks like around 300
The problem is the gauge doesn't easily report when things are edging up before they get to the point of damage.

Again to be clear I'm not here advocating head gaskets as PM. Between the dead-zone gauge and lack of a low coolant idiot light I'm just saying these trucks aren't the best at warning us before things get bad.
 
The problem is the gauge doesn't easily report when things are edging up before they get to the point of damage.

Again to be clear I'm not here advocating head gaskets as PM. Between the dead-zone gauge and lack of a low coolant idiot light I'm just saying these trucks aren't the best at warning us before things get bad
This should sound familiar to any 80 series owner.
 
Galvanic corrosion - When stainless steel and aluminum are in direct contact, the stainless steel acts as the more noble metal and resists corrosion, while the aluminum corrodes faster.

Maybe I miss understand the point you made. Seems from this the head gasket made of stainless steel would maintain its integrity.

My point was, in agreeance, the gasket should resist corrosion, and erosion better that the head, therefore a gasket failure without an overheating event if unlikely.

Typically, a galvanic reaction happens with water and in an open system, not closed one, and not in a system with anticorrosive additives. But is is possible if there is a warp, and air can get to it.

I believe you may be misunderstanding the proposed mode of failure. Toyota HG's have an elastomer coating on both sides literally engineered and put in place to help seal water passages. This coating is eaten away at by old antifreeze eventually resulting in a small breach into a cylinder, where a combustion <-> water leak manifests and due to resulting exposure to 4000+ degree combustion gases in a (now open) circulating system, further problems develop.
 
This should sound familiar to any 80 series owner.
Yep. One of the three toyota platforms I've done the resistor mod on.
 
That does not mean that a reading of an increased temp would not be accurate in the danger zone. 180 to 205 on a gauge that does not read numbers might indicated a closed loop temp, or normal operating temp. Does your gauge show 5 degree increments? My 200 series does not. danger zone looks like around 300
Using my OBD Fusion reader, 180 is when the thermostat starts to open. On the highway I used to run 195-196F all day long. Now that I'm re-geared if I'm towing I'll find the coolant temp gets up around 203F or very occasionally 205F. The whole time the coolant gauge on the dash doesn't move. Now don't get me wrong, 205F isn't a big deal when I'm climbing a mountain pass, but my point was just that the gauge doesn't really move until some higher threshold is breached.

My assumption is that gauge sensitivity is like a reverse bell curve (boat bottom) where it's very sensitive below or above the "normal" range but while you're in that normal range it doesn't move. My concern would be that if it doesn't start moving until 220 or 230F or more and the temp is increasing quickly because of low coolant are you going to necessarily notice the increase if it comes on suddenly?
 
First thought is adding a better temp gauge.
Something like this ?
Amazon -

 
2017 LX570 105,000 miles on original coolant. Looks to be a 9 on the pH scale.

1726247594209.webp
 
One failure on a 200-series does not constitute an issue. CCN has figured out human nature and how fear mongering generates views. He use to be a sincere channel but has become affected to be another youtuber. Just look at this waste of time 9 pages in.

It's not "one" failure. That was kind of the entire point of the video, he's seeing it more and more. 4 UR HG failures in his shop at time of filming, 2 more scheduled to come in, "many" more in the past. But, I guess he's lying to get views?

There's reports here as well (manifesting in the same way). It took less than a minute of using search to find multiple threads. Then I stopped trying. Some threads contain multiple reports.

 

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