PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
Umm that’s disappointing. Good thing it wasn’t super expensive….
The canal boat (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Dusten
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #622
Do you want me to be honest or tell you it's not my bumper?
I'm not doing this to bash them. But to find the cause and see if I can correct it.
They asked about it in my slider thread. There's nothing they can do. I'm not shipping it back. I dont want money.
I did send them pictures so they can address it on future bumpers.
FMC80
SILVER Star
That’s too bad. Did they offer any thoughts?
- Thread starter
- #624
Didn't reply. I know they're busy as ****. So I wasn't expecting one right away
FMC80
SILVER Star
Aside from maintaining and monitoring it, probably not much else to do. Doubtful that will be anything worrisome but interested in what they have to say about it.
- Thread starter
- #626
The ones leaching from the welds are my concerns. I'll treat everything with a rust chemical designed to slow and stop the process.
- Thread starter
- #628
No. And it almost never snows.
In my opinion, based on the industrial equipment I inspect and deal with:
That is primarily due to lack of coating thickness and completion on the powder coating application.
I frequently see these exact issues with both wet and powder coating processes.
1) the person applying the powder did not coat everything well enough and did not get enough in the corners.
2) It may or may not be due to poor preparation of the steel. If the metal was not clean enough (not blasted to SSPC-SP10) you may see this. However, if the operator did not go slow enough for the powder to build up in the corners, you could see the same thing.
3) The rust underneath is coming out of uncoated surfaces because the areas are not welded or sealed. There are raw edges of steel between the material intersection. This will cause future coating failure because the corrosion will work it's way under the powder coating and cause it to peel. This is an inherent failure that can be seen on both liquid and powder coating systems. It is typically less of an issue with liquid coatings because the liquid can flow into those areas more easily. These seams still need to be sealed after the coating has cured.
4) Edges on all the materials are sharp. This is a typical failure of all coatings due to the surface tension stresses seen at those points and it causes the coating to thin out and fail on the corners. To prevent this, all edges must be sanded "round" to give a better coating surface and remove any sharp points. This can also be offset by increasing the total coating thickness so the coating has more surface to adhere to itself, but may still fail due to the sharp points.
5) To prevent these issues, we have design out lapped steel during construction, only do corner to corner welds, prep the material edges prior to welding in the areas that will be exposed and unable to reach after assembly, and we design areas that cannot be avoided with lapping or edges with "obvious" gaps of 1/4" or more in order to allow the coating to cover all surfaces.
6) Sealing all seams after coating with caulk or flowable sealer. Seam sealer can be used prior to coating, depending on the coating system. Silicone caulk can be used after the coating to seal lapped areas. Make sure to PUSH the caulk gun instead of pulling, as that will force caulk into the seam instead of laying the bead of caulk on the outside. As the caulk cures, it shrinks and will pull away from the joint if it is pulled for application.
We deal with industrial equipment and see these issues a lot across many fabrication facilities. Attention to detail, design and layout, and the guy running the powder gun can all attribute to the success or failure of a single weldment and customer dissatisfaction.
If this was mine, I would pull it, sand all accessible areas to round corners or eliminate laps, weld seams that will be a cause of coating failure (while being aware it may warp the entire part due to additional locked in heat stress from welding) blast it with a FINE grit sand or glass, and coat it with liquid coating. Then after it is cured, I would seal all remaining seams with silicone caulk or seam sealer (that is weather and UV resistant). If you use seam sealer, you could install the sealer, let it cure, then apply another coat or two of paint.
I would use an epoxy primer and two or three topcoats of an epoxy color.
I don't have my computer open, but I would even offer the paint numbers of the coating system we use for things like this.
TLDR will be the theme on this reply.
I wrote this with the intent of helping you as well as the original manufacturer of the parts, as this is what I do. I deal with fab shops of all tooling levels, then we go back to engineering, revise what is necessary, then get better for the next one, but we also fix the ones where we discover the issues if the customer allows it. Sometimes yes, sometimes no.
Read end to end. Did you forget this is Mud and worse than a porn addiction?
The hell of it is, I have about another two pages worth to add. Maybe next time I'm on the shytter, I can post another page.......Read end to end. Did you forget this is Mud and worse than a porn addiction?
- Thread starter
- #632
Do it
FMC80
SILVER Star
I had to take @BILT4ME entry into the bathroom to read it; I like my privacy.Read end to end. Did you forget this is Mud and worse than a porn addiction?
Afterwards, I came to(sts), and realized I had no idea what I read and regretted my actions immediately, and did the walk of shame back to the garage.
Well, I'm not on the shytter, but sitting in yet another conference call, listening in while on a jobsite.
Blasting should be done to a near-white SSPC-SP10 for the best metal preparation (I refer to "immersion service" for the best applications).
Use sand or black beauty or glass beads to create a surface profile. Black beauty is very sharp and creates a lot of sharp "points" of hills and valleys and will allow the paint to adhere very well, but it will create a deep profile that will expose the tips of the metal (2.0 mils and higher).
Sand will create a good surface profile with some sharpness, but depending on the grade and size of sand will modify the surface profile.
Glass beads will give more of a "peened" profile and will have depth to it, but they will be round dents instead of cuts and the paint won't hold quite as well as a surface blasted with sand or black beauty.
Surface profile is the distance from the hills and the valleys created by blasting and the deeper the profile, the better the hold, but the thicker the paint needed to cover it all adequately. We use a product called "Testex Tape" to measure the surface profile after blasting so we know how much paint to put on, then we measure the thickness of the pint when wet and again after a 24-48 hour cure using a wet film gauge and a dry film gauge accordingly. Testex Replica Tape for Measuring Surface Profile - https://www.testextape.com/surface-profile
The ideal paint system I would use is:
Sherwin Williams Industrial Paint Products
(1) coat primer: Zinc Clad II Plus inorganic zinc coating at 3.0-5.0 mils DFT
(1) Coat mid: Macropoxy 646 (yes, that's the real number) fast cure epoxy 5.0-10.0 mils DFT (This is tintable)
(1) coat Top Coat: Acrolon 218 HS Acrylic Polyurethane 3.0-6.0 mils DFT (This is tintable)
This gives a total DFT of 11.0 to 21 mils DFT. That is a VERY thick coating, but works extremely well in marine environments (along the coast)
DFT=Dry Film Thickness
This is also nearly the cost of a new bumper unless you're coating 30 of them at once.
The zinc is an excellent rust inhibitor and "self-heals" from scratches so they don't tend to corrode after a hit.
The Macropoxy is an extremely durable epoxy and can be a top coat in itself, but will chalk with time.
The Acrolon Polyurethane is a high gloss to make the product look great and make it UV resistance and will retain its gloss long term.
Each gallon of the above products is between $150 and $250.
Look up the Product Information Sheets for each of these listed and you can see their temperature ratings, salt resistance ratings, and different coating system options.
That's all for now....
- Thread starter
- #635
So I haven't touched the ole girl in a bit.
Since we don't have a section for other rigs I'll post here and tag @PNWTreeOctopus to give him nightmares.
This is the wiring on my Datsun
These five wires were all both positive and negative for side markers. Side markers that had functional OEM wiring that was disconnected. Notice the high quality scotch locks.
This is leftover stereo wiring and a battery disconnect that he was using because he had a parasitic draw he couldn't find.
This is the positive wire for the completely necessary MSD box.
This is the negative wire for the completely necessary MSD box.
Since we don't have a section for other rigs I'll post here and tag @PNWTreeOctopus to give him nightmares.
This is the wiring on my Datsun
These five wires were all both positive and negative for side markers. Side markers that had functional OEM wiring that was disconnected. Notice the high quality scotch locks.
This is leftover stereo wiring and a battery disconnect that he was using because he had a parasitic draw he couldn't find.
This is the positive wire for the completely necessary MSD box.
This is the negative wire for the completely necessary MSD box.
- Thread starter
- #636
This is the tail lights
All better
All better
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
I felt palpable relief at the end of this post with your final picture. I wonder where that parasitic draw was coming from...
As an avionics guy in another life I can't stand nasty, lazy wiring, nice cleanup
Just an FYI, there is a section on mud for other rigs. Here is a link to Nissan/Datsun trucks:
It's at the bottom of the Vehicle Tech Forums, which the 80 series is also a part of:
Don't know how you access mud, but I didn't notice this for several years of being on mud. One of the reasons that I avoid using my phone for just about any forum. There may be ways to view all the content that you see on a PC with a phone, but I don't have the eye/hand coordination or patience needed to use a phone effectively. Hope this helps!
- Thread starter
- #640
Just an FYI, there is a section on mud for other rigs. Here is a link to Nissan/Datsun trucks:
It's at the bottom of the Vehicle Tech Forums, which the 80 series is also a part of:
Don't know how you access mud, but I didn't notice this for several years of being on mud. One of the reasons that I avoid using my phone for just about any forum. There may be ways to view all the content that you see on a PC with a phone, but I don't have the eye/hand coordination or patience needed to use a phone effectively. Hope this helps!
I'm on my phone. I'm almost never on a computer.
