The Blue Bomber

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I have a question for you all. So, I have the seams where I've welded and I didn't grind them down perfectly flat or anything. I just kind of blended them a little with the grinder. How should I smooth out these imperfections? I'm mostly concerned with where I welded the half door to the body to complete the bed. There's a pretty deep seam there and I think the bondo would never dry if I put it on thick enough to make it seamless. I was thinking fiberglass, after I primer it, but I'm not sure if that will end up cracking over time. Any suggestions? Possibly many thin coats of bondo?
 
I'm not an expert by any means but I did grow up around a dad who did body work from time to time and i know what happened on my pig. So that said I know that fiberglass will not crack but bondo absolutely will. I filled a pretty mean gap on my truck and thought I should have used fiberglass and I was right. Four months after the paint job that spot cracked and is starting to get bigger each time the weather gets colder. It sucks so i would say go with the fiberglass. I have been told it will last a lifetime.

Just to clarify I did thin coats of bondo on the spot I mentioned and it still cracked. Looked great at the time though = ).
 
Thanks for that CM. I looked at some other option and I think I will go with something called duraglass. You can get it at Sherman-Williams, at their automotive stores. Hopefully, the stuff will work out. It says you can use fiberglass cloth to cover up larger holes as well. I want to do that for the cowl portion of the firewall or whatever that is (the place were the windshield wipers come out of). I'm gonna clean, por-15, then fiberglass it.
Usc%20Duraglass%20Gallon.jpg
 
ok now i kno what ur askin all i did was grinded the weids as flat as i could then used body filler (bog) a sanded it down till it was smooth an so far so good no cracks
 
very nice. Now for some primer:)
 
Took it for a spin down the street. Drives nice and the cab doesn't have all those rattles and squeaks that are so well known to landcruisers haha I think the second skin is doing its job. Checked out my welder and I think it may still be salvageable. It looks like one of the triggers connectors came loose and then sparked on the metal liner inside that holds the wire. I'm gonna give it a try tomorrow. Checked and fit clearances for my rear sill. I actually drilled the holes in the right place! :) Also, made a temp. license plate bracket and mounted the license plate and light.
img05730.jpg

img0574zk.jpg
 
No tailgate? Is that set up temporary or did you decide tailgates are overrated?
 
uglyoinker said:
No tailgate? Is that set up temporary or did you decide tailgates are overrated?
Click to expand...

That's just temporary. I'm planning a tube kind of tailgate, but haven't even thought about designs yet. I want to get it street legal again, especially since I'm in the middle of a move. I don't know if I'll even have a place to work on it yet, so I'm trying to get the most done while I can.
 
Shamelessly asking for your opinion's as well. Cross-posting from my FJ60 thread:
Does the push rod on this slave cylinder look right to you? I feel like there should be more rod showing out of it as is the case of my 55.
Back story: Replaced my clutch and rear main due to oil leak. Now having problems shifting especially into reverse and first gears. It is possible that the rear main is jacked up again, but I want to check out my master and slave before jumping into the trans/transfer for a third time. I have no noticeable leaks from the master or the slave. I checked inside the cab as well. I have "bled" the slave cylinder. From my understanding, it is gravity that bleeds the system since air will rise and I don't need someone pushing the clutch pedal as you do when bleeding the brakes. Is that correct? Anyway, here's the picture.
EDIT: Should probably mention that the fluid is really dirty too.
img0579b.jpg
 
laguna80 said:
Shamelessly asking for your opinion's as well. Cross-posting from my FJ60 thread:
Does the push rod on this slave cylinder look right to you? I feel like there should be more rod showing out of it as is the case of my 55.
Back story: Replaced my clutch and rear main due to oil leak. Now having problems shifting especially into reverse and first gears. It is possible that the rear main is jacked up again, but I want to check out my master and slave before jumping into the trans/transfer for a third time. I have no noticeable leaks from the master or the slave. I checked inside the cab as well. I have "bled" the slave cylinder. From my understanding, it is gravity that bleeds the system since air will rise and I don't need someone pushing the clutch pedal as you do when bleeding the brakes. Is that correct? Anyway, here's the picture.
EDIT: Should probably mention that the fluid is really dirty too.
img0579b.jpg
Click to expand...

Not sure on the rear main, I haven't tackled mine yet.

Your question on bleeding it is correct. You only need to pop the bleed valve and cycle fluid down. Good luck man.
 
CarmMontana said:
Not sure on the rear main, I haven't tackled mine yet.

Your question on bleeding it is correct. You only need to pop the bleed valve and cycle fluid down. Good luck man.
Click to expand...

Thanks for confirming. The damn thing went to s*** today, so I ordered up a new master and slave. I can squeeze a little bit more time out of it because I adjusted the master cylinder pushrod out. The slave cylinder had very little travel when I checked under the truck with the clutch pushed down.
 
New plan for the blue bomber. Replace the hub and throw out bearing. Get lights working. Paint full colors. Put on grill. Take it to recommended place for safety check. Get it registered. Then, enjoy the drive.
 
Blue Bomber is for sale.
 
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