Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40

[GA Architect]

Old men and molasses move a little slow in the wintertime.

Wanted to revisit some of the “Sniper” installations as I’m gathering parts. Spent 2 cups of Java reviewing your issues/solutions. I’m certain I’m going to use the Holly integrated regulator and run the dual lines. It works, looks good and it’s there. Also, according to the distinguished forum, the Walbro 392 is a solid unit with a proven track record. Who am I to buck the hive on the Walbro..

I did notice that your 02 placement was a “little vertical” compared to the Holly recommendation. Was that just a fitment problem, IE room? Any other issues flaming your 02? I was pilfering ideas off of @wngrog earlier and thought the 02 heat sink bung extender was a common sense approach to preventative 02 failure. I’m going to steal that idea too and claim victory.

Again, inspiring thread. Now I’m going to go nick ideas from someone else..

The O2 sensor seems to be ok....I did have an issue with the 'corvette filter', but removed it and used the return at the Sniper, all is good. One other item was a bad ECM that Holley replaced for no charge.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Roger, good copy on the Vette filter et al. You had a very good write up. One last thing I don’t recall reading was regarding your return line. Are you returning via the top of the tank? if so, what are you using to get the fuel to the bottom of the tank IOT prevent foaming? Custom setup or?

 

[Skreddy]

I think (could be remembering a different one, read so many) Architect’s (I should learn people’s names) is in the vertical down pipe, that’s why it’s ok to be so flat/horizontal. It only needs to be at the angle if installed in a horizontal pipe (think small block with headers, in end of collector). The upward slope keeps it from being in a more condensated area and I’ve heard, also ensures it’s in flowing/mixed exhaust gasses, not the barrier gasses that could collect along the diameter of the pipe. But I’m no gaseologist…..

 

[GA Architect]

Roger, good copy on the Vette filter et al. You had a very good write up. One last thing I don’t recall reading was regarding your return line. Are you returning via the top of the tank? if so, what are you using to get the fuel to the bottom of the tank IOT prevent foaming? Custom setup or?

I have not modified the OEM fuel tank. The return line is run into the side of it.

 

[wngrog]

They had problems with people putting them at a downward slope where condensation kills them. I started taking mine out past the header collectors …..about even with the clutch these days. Not many of the trucks I build get tons of miles but so far so good

 

[Chungas Revenge]

I think (could be remembering a different one, read so many) Architect’s (I should learn people’s names) is in the vertical down pipe, that’s why it’s ok to be so flat/horizontal. It only needs to be at the angle if installed in a horizontal pipe (think small block with headers, in end of collector). The upward slope keeps it from being in a more condensated area and I’ve heard, also ensures it’s in flowing/mixed exhaust gasses, not the barrier gasses that could collect along the diameter of the pipe. But I’m no gaseologist…..

Apologies for the highjack Rick...

Just wanted to make sure I was good out past the collector. I have one of the last “Marks Headers”. It was going to pain me greatly to drill a hole and weld on it.

Thanks for the feedback.

They had problems with people putting them at a downward slope where condensation kills them. I started taking mine out past the header collectors …..about even with the clutch these days. Not many of the trucks I build get tons of miles but so far so good

 

[wngrog]

They recommend not to put them above the collector. I did that on all mine until they told me that’s why I was eating O2 sensors.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Hey Rick--

Greetings from the land of NOD.

I'm thumbing through my pre-execution checklist REF: Sniper Install. Your 77 and my 76 are sort of related. 1st cousins if I may be so bold. They share a great deal of similarities, except for the bad repaint, diamond plate, monsta liner and general engine bay "patina." Sooo, with that in mind, regarding your fuel lines, how did you incorporate your existing return line back to the tank? Include your charcoal canister? How did you depressurize your tank? If you don't have pics it didn't happen and I'll go back to pilfering ideas from @Jdc1.

I would not burden you with so many details but, I've just about nicked every other good idea from you and I figure it's best to dance with what ya brung...

Thanks in advance...Frank

 

[GA Architect]

Hey Rick--

Greetings from the land of NOD.

I'm thumbing through my pre-execution checklist REF: Sniper Install. Your 77 and my 76 are sort of related. 1st cousins if I may be so bold. They share a great deal of similarities, except for the bad repaint, diamond plate, monsta liner and general engine bay "patina." Sooo, with that in mind, regarding your fuel lines, how did you incorporate your existing return line back to the tank? Include your charcoal canister? How did you depressurize your tank? If you don't have pics it didn't happen and I'll go back to pilfering ideas from @Jdc1.

I would not burden you with so many details but, I've just about nicked every other good idea from you and I figure it's best to dance with what ya brung...

Thanks in advance...Frank

Current fuel line configuration:
SUPPLY SIDE - From the OEM tank supply connection with 5/16" rubber fuel line, once it drops thru the floor, about 6" further, I have a step up connector to a 3/8" rubber fuel line. From there it is quick to the pre filter, electric pump, post filter, and soft line to the engine block where I've run 3/8" aluminum hard line up to the Sniper.

RETURN SIDE - From the Sniper's regulator connection I've run 3/8" aluminum hard line parallel with the supply to the lower passenger side of block. There I connect to 3/8" rubber fuel line and run thru the frame back to near the tank location, and have a step down connector to 5/16" rubber fuel line. From this connection the rubber fuel line goes up thru the floor and connects to the OEM tank return stub.

OEM TANK VENTING - all three OEM fuel tank venting locations run up to the OEM fuel evaporator. From there I've run fuel line to the OEM charcoal canister (note I removed the check valve). My charcoal canister's top and bottom connector vents into fuel line that is run into the frame below and out towards the back. Thus it vents to atmosphere.

** photos in post #1951 **

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Well played....

 

[GA Architect]

Here are some photos to help explain the above.

(note, the tank vent hard line is replaced with soft line)

 

[Chungas Revenge]

RETURN SIDE - connects to the OEM tank return stub.

OEM TANK VENTING - My charcoal canister's top and bottom connector vents into fuel line that is run into the frame below and out towards the back. Thus is vents to atmosphere.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Thanks again for the assist Rick. Seems, at least to me, there is more info on <74 installations than 75>. Just wanted to make sure, in my little Inf head, that I was tracking w/the nuances

 

[blossett]

Got a complete hard top fastener kit from overland metric. I know the hex heads are hard top to body and hard top to roof. Anybody know where the rest go? Long vs short Phillips Especially?

 

[blossett]

Sorry architect , wrong forum post

 

[65swb45]

Here are some photos to help explain the above.
View attachment 2952443 (note, the tank vent hard line is replaced with soft line)

View attachment 2952444

View attachment 2952445

View attachment 2952446

View attachment 2952447

I never did understand Mr. T’s decision to shunt the lower line of the canister into the tub/frame. Logic says that if the line has vapor, it should be routed to the air cleaner, and if it has fuel, it should be routed to the tank. And if back pressure is a concern, then THIS should be the line with the check valve.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

any Alternator or Voltage Regulator update photos Rick

curious about your more 50 AMPS upgrade :

unit 27020-61022 ?

​

 

[imyahucklbrry]

I bought this AWAB kit a few years ago. Now, I believe they are owned by ABA.
View attachment 1870842

Click here for a good selection of these clamps: Fisheries Supply

If you like looking at clamps: NORMA

And for the larger clamps on my radiator hoses, I used NORMA's "ABA Safe" units in the ABA S40 variety.

Older post but I’m thinking you’re so ‘organized’ it won’t matter! You remember what sizes of clamps you used to replace the radiator hoses and where you purchased from?

 

[Green Bean]

Maybe this:

Which Hose Clamps?

forum.ih8mud.com

"Rick, another cruiser friend, showed me the light with the hose clamps. Go to www.fisheriessupply.com and get the correct hose clamps. This time, I am sure they are the best. The clamps are SKU# 382003, 382005, 382001, and 382009 (I ordered two size 10's, two size 20's, one size 24 and three size 28's. They're listed under "316 SS Solid Band Hose Clamp". Should be able to get the set for around $50... which is more than I can say for me. "

 

[GA Architect]

Older post but I’m thinking you’re so ‘organized’ it won’t matter! You remember what sizes of clamps you used to replace the radiator hoses and where you purchased from?

(number needed) - OEM Wire Hose Clamps => Constant Tension Band Clamps => ABA 316 SS Worm Drive Clamps
(x2) - 96112-10330 (ID=33) => 96134-52600 => Size 10
(x2) - 90460-49062 (ID=49) => 90466-41003 or 90466-A0026 => Size 20
(x1) - 96111-10500 (ID=50) => 90466-41003 or 90466-A0026 => Size 24
(x3) - 90460-58013 (ID=58) => ( yet to find a cross reference ) => Size 28

Like stated by @Green Bean , I purchased additional AWAB units from " Fisheries Supply ".