Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[GA Architect]

Are those SOR mirrors the same as Euro mirrors in the first photo or different? The SOR site says these are convex mirrors. Not sure if that's a good thing or if it'll just get annoying.

Otherwise, I like the design of the arm; it looks like the mirror would be held in place firmly. My main complaint with the OEM mirror is that it gets out of position easily.

"....gets out of position easily." Hence the hunt for some new side mirrors.

I think SOR's are similar to Toyota's Euro style. I've yet to find a member with a SOR set, nor the Euro style either to get their thoughts. I will not drill any other holes in my doors just to install some cheep mirrors, so I'll probably order a set of the Euro Style and go from there. If those don't work, then SOR's may be the next option.

 

[sggoat]

Hang it in my office, along with my kids art, kids photos, convention badges, the first dollar I made for my business, Hooters koozie, golf photos, business license, Architectural license, old wooden golf clubs, deer heads and antler mounts.

That's not a bad place for it to rest, If I had to replace mine, it would prob go someplace just like that.

 

[GA Architect]

Got my rebuilt original '77 Toyota OEM 27020-61012 alternator back from the shop. I'll be installing this tonight. Also, I had my rear step sand blasted as well. I'll start painting this tonight as well. Just trying to decide if I will go with Rust-Oleum primer & professional enamel or Chassis Saver.

 

[SSCR]

Chassis saver is your best bet, I love that stuff!

 

[GA Architect]

Chassis saver is your best bet, I love that stuff!

WINNER!.....Chassis Saver - Antique Satin Black it will be.

 

[Racer65]

How about POR-15? It will never rust again.

 

[Racer65]

Just read up on it. Seems very similar to POR-15. Both have UV sensitivity.

 

[GA Architect]

Just read up on it. Seems very similar to POR-15. Both have UV sensitivity.

I believe the Chassis Saver is very similar to POR-15. I have a qt. of Chassis Saver, so that is what I'll use. I'll follow up with photos.

 

[Racer65]

I believe the Chassis Saver is very similar to POR-15. I have a qt. of Chassis Saver, so that is what I'll use. I'll follow up with photos.

With POR-15, you first need to apply a cleaning solution (Marine Clean), then you apply a primer solution, finally you apply POR-15. If you want further protection from UV, you have to apply what's called a Top Coat. That's 4 layers, and each layer gets progressively more expensive.

Looks like Chassis Saver isn't cheap either.

 

[Trollhole]

Yes POR-15, rust bullets, chassis saver all need to be top coated. Otherwise they will chalk up over time.

 

[Varty Yo]

A few months ago, I had Jim C. rebuild my Aisan Carb, but in the mean time, I used a Trollhole. I was impressed with the Trollhole carb, and have peace of mind knowing I have such a nice back-up carb since reinstalling my Aisan.

Trollhole carb along with an updated Coolerman's connector:
View attachment 998711
View attachment 998712

Whats the updated Coolerman's connector? I have a trollhole coming right away is this somethin im gonna need?

 

[GA Architect]

Yo - My 40 came to me with a simple aftermarket male/female (LIGHT BLUE EYE-SORE) carb solenoid connection.

Below is the white carb solenoid connection that comes with the Trollhole carb, and the black connector is Coolerman's PLF1P6.3B part.

 

[Varty Yo]

Oh ok! I gotcha now. Mine has one that looks more like coolermans!

 

[Varty Yo]

You had me worried there for a second! I had to go out to the garage to double check what was on mine.

 

[Weber Sarge]

I say screw POR , and the rest of 'em for that matter . Most indestructible thing I've found in a can is Stainless Steel paint , prefer the Sprayon brand myself . Use that for a base on blasted steel and topcoat with whatever you want . It is not a dead smooth finish but the top coat can fix that if needed . It's been on my 1" thick welding table over a year and hardly even shows signs of burning so far . Painted the rear bumperettes on the Cruiser with it and top coated with Cruiser Corps' pewter color , looks great and can't even scratch it .

Table surface after 1.5yrs of just laying steel on it and using the SS paint to conduct the ground for the tig - sometimes @200 amps -

I love the stuff , buy it by the case ...
Sarge

 

[GA Architect]

I say screw POR , and the rest of 'em for that matter . Most indestructible thing I've found in a can is Stainless Steel paint , prefer the Sprayon brand myself . Use that for a base on blasted steel and topcoat with whatever you want . It is not a dead smooth finish but the top coat can fix that if needed . It's been on my 1" thick welding table over a year and hardly even shows signs of burning so far . Painted the rear bumperettes on the Cruiser with it and top coated with Cruiser Corps' pewter color , looks great and can't even scratch it .

Table surface after 1.5yrs of just laying steel on it and using the SS paint to conduct the ground for the tig - sometimes @200 amps -

View attachment 1018409

I love the stuff , buy it by the case ...
Sarge

Nice fly swatter!..............Oh, table too & press as well.

I'll have to check into the Stainless Steel Paint.

 

[Weber Sarge]

We're not too far from a horse barn , and some of those flies are really big ...lol .
Odd thing - they are attracted to the light from the tig when welding , they come in fast and just poof - gone . Leaves a nice contaminated spot in my welds too .
The hydraulic brake will be painted in the spring with the SS paint , btw .

Just be wary of the spray nozzles on this stuff , they clog very easily . Best way is to shake it until your sick of and then another 2 minutes for good measure . Shake as much as possible when using it to keep the particles suspended . Immediately when done painting turn that can upside down and clear the pickup tube , also clean the nozzle face with brake cleaner - otherwise it will plug up and render the rest of the can useless .
Sarge

 

[GA Architect]

We're not too far from a horse barn , and some of those flies are really big ...lol .
Odd thing - they are attracted to the light from the tig when welding , they come in fast and just poof - gone . Leaves a nice contaminated spot in my welds too .
The hydraulic brake will be painted in the spring with the SS paint , btw .

Just be wary of the spray nozzles on this stuff , they clog very easily . Best way is to shake it until your sick of and then another 2 minutes for good measure . Shake as much as possible when using it to keep the particles suspended . Immediately when done painting turn that can upside down and clear the pickup tube , also clean the nozzle face with brake cleaner - otherwise it will plug up and render the rest of the can useless .
Sarge

Yep, grew up with about 10 to 15 quarters, and most any other animal that could be had in GA! I know what you mean about the flies, if you inhale one, your set for a week with protein. That is, if it goes down without choking you. I swore once I moved out, I'd never-ever own any of those four-legged critters!

 

[GA Architect]

Got a care package from SouthBoston this week, so I did a little maintenance this morning. My hood was seriously loose, but with these installed, nice and smooth. What do you think, you think those plastic bushing were in need of some help?......Here, have a look.

FYI - You had better have some touch-up paint handy. The hinge pins do not come out easly! Had to beat those suckers out with my ball pein and a small bolt on my vise. Then you have beat each one back into place.....Yes, it marks up the paint. But I have some good touch-up paint that from 2 feet and squinting, you'll never know there was a chip in the paint.

Now, to attack the door hinges.....Anyone offer any advice as to removing the door hinge pins? Can you remove the pins with the hinges still attached?

 

[SSCR]

Yes you can, but the best way is to unbolt the hinges from the tub and than take your time removing the pins using a vice and a counter punch. Unfortunately its a bear to unbolt the hinges if your gauge panel and other items are still there.

With Chassis Saver, I would lay down 2-3 coats with a good brush, sand that down smooth and than I applied Rustoleum semi-gloss black on everything. Lots of work but should last forever.