Builds The '93 Troopy Hodgepodge (7 Viewers)

[Gengis]

2.5 degree incline towards the back??? Is this a standard toyota number for engines in the 76 series?? or perhaps a chevy specificatipon for this engine, or is it what you were happy with?? The reason I ask is because I put an H150 gearbox into my 76 (with a 1Hzzz motor) replaceing the origional R151, and I now have about 2.5 to 3 degrees tilt . Trouble is, i can't remember if the tilt was there before with the old gear box.
Great build, by the way I look forward to the next thrilling instalments daily.

 

[SNLC]

2.5 degree incline towards the back??? Is this a standard toyota number for engines in the 76 series?? or perhaps a chevy specificatipon for this engine, or is it what you were happy with?? The reason I ask is because I put an H150 gearbox into my 76 (with a 1Hzzz motor) replaceing the origional R151, and I now have about 2.5 to 3 degrees tilt . Trouble is, i can't remember if the tilt was there before with the old gear box.
Great build, by the way I look forward to the next thrilling instalments daily.

It’s actually all about the pinion angle in relation to t-case output angle. Which on an 80 is roughly 2.5* up on the front axle with stock suspension. Although 2-3* of inclination is standard on GM v8’s.

A lot more things will be coming into play, Delta radius arms, amount of lift, upper and lower adjustable control arms in the rear, ect ect.

Ideally no DC shaft will be needed front and rear but that remains to be seen.

Cheers

 

[Gengis]

Thanks a ton.
With the leaf springs , it is assumed that the back axel flange angle remains almost the same during travel, so both falnges (Tx case and axle) should be almost parallel. It may even be the same with your 4 link ( maybe 5) 80 setup. Personaly, I believe (as an electronic engineer) that the 3 link front ends need a DC if used in permanent 4x4, because that angle changes a bunch all the time.
My best bet is to find a bog standard 76 like mine and check the the engine angle.

keep up the good work
G

 

[TonyP]

Thanks a ton.
With the leaf springs , it is assumed that the back axel flange angle remains almost the same during travel, so both falnges (Tx case and axle) should be almost parallel. It may even be the same with your 4 link ( maybe 5) 80 setup. Personaly, I believe (as an electronic engineer) that the 3 link front ends need a DC if used in permanent 4x4, because that angle changes a bunch all the time.
My best bet is to find a bog standard 76 like mine and check the the engine angle.

keep up the good work
G

Yes. The good thing with this mounting setup lowering/angle the engine is fairly simple. Chop the frame mounts and locate them lower. Shouldn't be more than a couple hour job.

 

[SNLC]

Thanks a ton.
With the leaf springs , it is assumed that the back axel flange angle remains almost the same during travel, so both falnges (Tx case and axle) should be almost parallel. It may even be the same with your 4 link ( maybe 5) 80 setup. Personaly, I believe (as an electronic engineer) that the 3 link front ends need a DC if used in permanent 4x4, because that angle changes a bunch all the time.
My best bet is to find a bog standard 76 like mine and check the the engine angle.

keep up the good work
G

I have to disagree about leaves and what we call pinion deflection. With leaf springs the pinion angle changes constantly as the suspension cycles. It is most noticeable under max droop or full compression. This is exactly why I installed a “traction bar” on the last leaf spring truck I built.



I have spent the last 3hrs getting these body mounts all fitted up under the truck and adjustments made as needed. Getting close to starting to burn them all on.

Cheers

 

[TonyP]

Since we pulled the drivetrain, just dropped the 6l80e and HF2AV off to get a full rebuild.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I have to disagree about leaves and what we call pinion deflection. With leaf springs the pinion angle changes constantly as the suspension cycles. It is most noticeable under max droop or full compression. This is exactly why I installed a “traction bar” on the last leaf spring truck I built.



I have spent the last 3hrs getting these body mounts all fitted up under the truck and adjustments made as needed. Getting close to starting to burn them all on.

Cheers

Looking forward to seeing them to compare to what I have going on.

 

[SNLC]

Good a good start on welding these on today.

That is getting ground back. Should finish them tomorrow.

Cheers

 

[TonyP]

Probably the most stout radiator support mount ever.

 

[SNLC]

Pretty happy with these....

They will look good ground back and shaped a little. We will be adding gussets where we feel we need them.

Cheers

 

[TonyP]

All mounts will be 3/16th with 'speed holes'.
I think stock is 1/8th? So they'll be plenty stout. We were welding those in the dark. at 11pm, so they'll need a little grinding, no big deal. Dave came through with the cut pieces... again. Dave and Patrick and crew at Delta are killers. I know I keep nuthugging these guys but they owe me very little and are going above and beyond. Next time I see Dave I need to inquire about some Delta swag. Or a Greenspeed shirt or something.

Only 10 more mounts to go and the Troopy is officially married to the 80 frame (temporarily at least).
Next up is the subtank which I have a plan for, sort of a double H-Brace thing. I think it'll work nicely. That can be fabbed without the body over the frame for ease of mounting.
After that, the frame is DONE and ready for painting.
Hoping to get the body on the rotisserie before I leave on Thursday. Shouldn't be too bad since we already have a frame. Just a matter for tying the rotisserie into the frame we build.
I might have to leave busting down the axles for paint for Ian to do.

All that said, we made killer progress considering our timeframe. Goes to show, focusing on a task, and more importantly not having wives and kids to constantly s*** on your parade, good things happen

 

[Gengis]

Bloody hell, the verticle welding is more "Text Book" than the horizontal welds which are really good as well.
Loking forward to see all the mounts in.

Thanks for indulging me on the suspention debate. I'm actualy fine as I am, and will only rethink the matter if i go permanent 4x4 at some stage.

G

 

[goexplore]

Black bull horns on the bonnet.

 

[TonyP]

Black bull horns on the bonnet.

View attachment 2019840

See? I kinda like that! Did you paint it black or are they available that color from Toyota?

Anyways, I'm back to crawling around my hotel room like an invalid. Guess the meds they gave only worked for one day.
Heading back to Utah tomorrow so Ian will be solo for now.

 

[SNLC]

Rest up Tony, hope you feel better.

I am working on BM #8. Every one up to that is tacked it. I will pull the chassis out to weld them all up, grind and clean them up.

#2

#3

#4

Cheers

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I like it! I feel better about my mount creations now. My A pillar/front cab mount mockup is almost identical, just not fancy laser cut.

 

[SNLC]

I like it! I feel better about my mount creations now. My A pillar/front cab mount mockup is almost identical, just not fancy laser cut.

I am capping that one like we did on the #1 mount.

Cheers

 

[cruiserdan]

Rest up Tony, hope you feel better.

I am working on BM #8. Every one up to that is tacked it. I will pull the chassis out to weld them all up, grind and clean them up.

#2
View attachment 2019951

#3
View attachment 2019953

#4
View attachment 2019952


Cheers

Beautiful metal sculptures there.

 

[TonyP]

I like it! I feel better about my mount creations now. My A pillar/front cab mount mockup is almost identical, just not fancy laser cut.

That front firewall mount is a big one for sure. But the metal we used, it'll be stout enough.
We're using the 'larger' OEM mount/puck for all body-to-frame-mounts except the radiator mount. The OEM frame has the smaller mount for the radiator support and the very rear mount for some reason. The 2nd rubber mount (under the frame body mount) is the smaller type puck all around. They're going to get round "cups" on top as well similar to the OEM body mounts (as seen on the first pic of the radiator support mount). Mostly there for alignment and minimizing side to side movement.

If that makes sense...

 

[SNLC]

Beautiful metal sculptures there.

Thanks, appreciate it.

I am now working on #5 which is #9 in total so only four left to set up and tack on.

Cheers