Builds The 60 known as Mamabear: a tale of rust and good times. (1 Viewer)

[HemiAlex]

The saga continues.

One of the nuts is starting to round. I’m expecting to have to heat and vice grip it out. I’ve ordered two full sets of oem studs and nuts to battle this later.

I was able to get two of the nuts off easily but my better judgement took control and I stopped before I broke something.

 

[mattressking]

The saga continues.

One of the nuts is starting to round. I’m expecting to have to heat and vice grip it out. I’ve ordered two full sets of oem studs and nuts to battle this later.

I was able to get two of the nuts off easily but my better judgement took control and I stopped before I broke something.

Hammer a 12pt on it if nothing else works or a couple spot welds to a socket if you have a welder laying around.

 

[HemiAlex]

That’s a good idea.

Hammer a 12pt on it if nothing else works or a couple spot welds to a socket if you have a welder laying around.

I’m very close to a leak free truck. This is a very fitting second to last battle.

The rear main seal will be a right of passage.

 

[mattressking]

That’s a good idea.

I’m very close to a leak free truck. This is a very fitting second to last battle.

The rear main seal will be a right of passage.

We are at the same point. I'm trying to hold out on RMS and have the H55 sitting in the garage.

 

[HemiAlex]

H55F comes in a few months and I’m really dreading the t case rebuild more than the trans swap.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Sorry I forgot to find that pix... here it is. Donut does not get crushed. It simply acts as an insulator around the OD of the pipe and sits up inside the underside of the exhaust mani.

 

[HemiAlex]

I did that wrong. That picture helps a ton. Thank you.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

H55F comes in a few months and I’m really dreading the t case rebuild more than the trans swap.

I’d rebuild 4 tcases before swapping 1 tranny. No single piece weighs more than 15 or 20 pounds, and you don’t have to line up the input shaft, or monkey with shifters and tunnels... once the mystery goes away, you’ll see what I mean. Easy peasy hapanesey

 

[HemiAlex]

So a few dumb things have happened:

1. When i lifted the truck a year ago, the driveshaft angle change instantly killed the u joints. No big deal. New joints and a balance, all was well.

2. Drive 10,000 miles and then just recently drive 1500 miles at 70mph going to big bend. On the return trip the truck develops a nasty vibration at speed. I feel around under there and the bolts are finger tight. Two backed out a bit but I didn’t lose anything. Tightened them up but something doesn’t feel right 75% of the vibration is gone.

3. Buy another set of oem u joints and pull the driveshaft. Take it to get rebalanced. They say my matsuba u joints are out of spec, they suggest neapco and I’m not in the mood to argue. He also notices the front flange on the driveshaft is warped. Seems reasonable and i can see obvious wear from where it was loose during the road trip. It had material transferred over and peppered in metal. He suggested that he was able to “straighten” it. I go about my way and he suggests finding a new flange. I Also had 4wp balance and rotate the 33’s. Made a huge difference in noise at speed. Worth the $20 in parts every 5,000 miles to keep the truck quiet and smooth. I have a little bit of regret for not buying the km2’s but not a big deal.

4. The new driveshaft has maybe 3000 miles on it. The front u joint is dead. I’ve got play on both axis. My hum is still there. I try something that a wise man told me and i drop the driveshaft and tighten the output flange down on the tcase. I get a little more than a full turn from the staked nut! Reinstall the driveshaft and things get better. The ds isn’t flopping around as much but there still is a hum at 70mph and doesn’t feel 100%.

5. Purchase a used rear driveshaft from eBay and use the second set of matsuba u joints from the first time. Dropped it off at the Ds shop and asked them for pity. I don’t think that the matsuba joints were bad, I think the flange was out of tolerance from all the fatigue of moving around and it stretched unevenly. Dropped It off yesterday and I’m gone for a week for work, waiting for a call to pick it up later.

I think I left it get loose the first time which killed the u joints, warped the flange and loosened the output shaft bolt. Now let’s see what happens.

I expect to get a DS with no play in the x or y axis and I’m only buying time until I go buy an H55f and t case from Georg in the coming months. 297,500 miles on it with what seems like an original transmission and t case. I’ve got the trans leaking into the t case but it’s a slow leak and Manageable.

Old truck problems rule, no regrets about driving this vibrating heap of rust daily.

 

[HemiAlex]

Also, the truck really likes 93 with the new jimc distributor. I don’t mind running it, my last two tanks yielded 230 with mostly city driving.

Also, I’m so glad i got the piece of junk trollhole off the truck and bought this city racer carb. Props to @cityracer65 for helping me out a ton. The truck is running great and getting 11/15, with me driving it like I stole it to keep up with Houston speeds.

I’ve got a small exhaust leak that goes away when hot from me putting the donut gasket in wrong that I’ll fix when it bothers me more.

Coming up on 300,000 miles soon. Can’t wait.

 

[HemiAlex]

Still going strong, 1000 miles to 300,000.

Recently I knocked out a few small exhaust leaks, redid the back brakes fixed one of the steering column u joints.

Im preparing for the H55F and rebuilt split case, but work has me globetrotting and I can't say we where I'll be. Nothing impending that is a real problem.

 

[HemiAlex]

The life in the slow lane hasn’t been half bad.

23,000 miles of daily driving since picked this truck up. No failures that left me on the side of the road.

It’s going to be time for some gifts soon.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Nice! I always have to check in when I see your thread come up. Not 300k but my little beater Nissan just hit 200k a week or so ago and is still running strong.

Thankfully because truck is pulled apart, again, bottom end. My nose caught the scent of burning oil and when I pulled the pan I found a partially spun cam bearing. Call it serendipity that I had a spare pan I planned on swapping in eventually anyway and spotted it before it caused anything too major.

 

[HemiAlex]

Nice! I always have to check in when I see your thread come up. Not 300k but my little beater Nissan just hit 200k a week or so ago and is still running strong.

Thankfully because truck is pulled apart, again, bottom end. My nose caught the scent of burning oil and when I pulled the pan I found a partially spun cam bearing. Call it serendipity that I had a spare pan I planned on swapping in eventually anyway and spotted it before it caused anything too major.

That’s luck.

The truck keeps testing you and you keep hitting back. I admire that.

I’ve got an exhaust leak that needs some work due to a warped flange, a leaking and tired split case and some rust left to fight with.

Other than that nothing will change.

1500 mile oem fuel filter changes
3000 mile 20w50 valvoline vr1 oil and 15600-41010 filter changes

Valve adjustment and exhaust work coming soon. May throw an oem intake/exhaust gasket in but the felpro isn’t leaking. I’ve got heat riser block off gaskets to do.

 

[HemiAlex]

I’ll just leave this here.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Nice. That's literally the only part I haven't purchased yet because the Toyota one is so lame.

 

[gregnash]

ooohhh... I smell something fun coming!!

 

[HemiAlex]

In Jan 2016 I made the following post:

1. Fix the head situation, get it running on 6 cylinders again.

2. Adjust valves

3. Plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor and secondary diaphragm.

4.Refresh the brakes. OEM master cylinder, Mintex/sumitumo front pads, longer stainless lines

5. Install new OEM space and master on clutch + clutch line.

6. Marlin crawler seals and front axle refresh, plus front tie rod ends.

7.Raise the truck and install fresh leaf spring bushings. Possibly an OME kit.

8. Install 33x10.5-15 BFG Ko2 on stock wheels.

9. Replace gaping hole in dash with a stereo and some 5.25" coaxials to overcome the road noise.

10. Drive it until something breaks or makes noise.

I've completed all I set out to do on the truck and then some.

So, for its 300,000 mile gift its getting some goodies.

New H55F & Rebuilt split case from Georg @orangefj45
City Racer 5 speed shift knob
OEM Oil Pan and gaskets
OEM Rear Main Seal
OEM Transmission Mount
Aisin Clutch kit
New Aisin Locking hubs.

I also picked up a new PS pulley to mount my oem pump once I figure out what I'll do for the steering box. It feels surpassingly good for the mileage.

I might sneak a JimC carb in there. I need to make the HAC work with the desmog first.

It hasn't let me down and while most may see it dumb to spend more than I paid for the truck on these items, I see it as the ultimate thrill to probably be one of the only people in my area daily driving a 31 year old 300,000 mile truck around a big city like Houston without care in the world. It's got a trip to colorado lined up soon, big bend over the christmas break and plenty of work trips coming up. I've never had any doubt to get in it and go anywhere, even with the transfer case making a grumbling noise for god knows how long. It should have died a long time ago.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Thought you were happy w/ the City Racer? Or do you mean for the trip up elevation?

 

[HemiAlex]

Thought you were happy w/ the City Racer? Or do you mean for the trip up elevation?

No problem with the city racer at all. It works great for everything that I've asked it to do. But id like to get the HAC working and I can't find the info I want just yet to make it work with the city racer carb due to the lack of ports. Waiting for someone to get back to me on that.

Your old carb that I didn't get back to you on went to my friend Marc who lives a few blocks away. Its already at Jim's and I'll either borrow or buy it from Marc to run up to CO with. Small world!