Builds Texas Reds - The Tale of Two Red 40’s (1 Viewer)

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wngrog said:
Look at my signature and there is another step by step in my FJ45 thread. That thread is long as hell but there are bookmarks.
Click to expand...
The only part I’m confused on is the supply and return hook ups for the tank and power from the coil... hoping it makes more sense once I get my new gas tank.
 
JDNs78FJ40 said:
The only part I’m confused on is the supply and return hook ups for the tank and power from the coil... hoping it makes more sense once I get my new gas tank.
Click to expand...
Don’t pull power from the coil, depending on your year, you can use the idle solenoid 12+ at the carb. Or there’s an ignition 12+ tab on the back of your fuse block.
 
The dangling wire leftover from the carburetor is clearly the earliest place to pull switched 12v

On the tank. It helps to peek inside and see how the return and pickup work through the sending unit hole. It is very easy to see. That is assuming you have a 72 and up with a return in the tank
 
wngrog said:
The dangling wire leftover from the carburetor is clearly the earliest place to pull switched 12v

On the tank. It helps to peek inside and see how the return and pickup work through the sending unit hole. It is very easy to see. That is assuming you have a 72 and up with a return in the tank
Click to expand...
I have a 1/78 build date. Here are the 2 wires that went to the factory carb. Is it one of these?
image.jpg
 
JDNs78FJ40 said:
I have a 1/78 build date. Here are the 2 wires that went to the factory carb. Is it one of these?View attachment 2590640
Click to expand...
Should be one of those, easiest way to tell is get your test light on them. Also, @Coolerman sells the correct terminals to plug into the stock harness to make it look super clean.
 
JDNs78FJ40 said:
I have a 1/78 build date. Here are the 2 wires that went to the factory carb. Is it one of these?View attachment 2590640
Click to expand...

The smaller connector in your hand should be 12 v ignition switched power for the carb solenoid, which comes off the engine fuse. This should be a black wire (see the wiring diagram pic below). The larger one goes to the carb temp sensor.

@ToyotaMatt has been really helpful with connectors and subharnesses for me.

View attachment 2608318
 
@wngrog this is an incredibly helpful thread, not just for the detailed Sniper install.

I think I have the same suspension / steering issue you fixed in the first Texas Red build. PO installed giant shackles and a big lift with no shims, which now looks like this. I'd like to duplicate your suspension overhaul.

Do I have this right?

- OME light / medium 2" lift with stock height shackles
- Billstein 33-185606 in the rear, same in front?
- 4 degree steel shims in the front
- ? shims in the rear depending on differential angle?

Waiting to hear back from @orangefj45 but I want to make sure I have the parts right!

View attachment 2608326
 
This thread has been immensely helpful.

I have a some questions for the hive mind on the Sniper install, hoping for some insight.

  1. For the distributor install - I have a DUI - do I need to remove the igniter and coil? I assume I do, but want to make sure before I remove it.
  2. Does the DUI need Vac advance? If so, do I pull that from base of Sniper.
  3. Should I pull Brake Booster vacuum from the manifold, or the base of Sniper? Originally, I was pulling from manifold and was going to hook it back up same way, but want to make sure.
  4. For the Charcoal Canister - is there any way to explain to me how that is all routed - I tried my best to glean from the photos and other comments, but I am just plain confused. I have the AC Delco canister, as well as the AC Delco purge valve.
  5. I was going to use the recommended temp sender location, but I stripped my drain plug on the side of the block out.. so that location for temp sender is temporarily on hold, until I can get some welding assistance to get it out.. I was going to use the stock temp sender location in the meantime. It seems to me that the threads aren't the same - but it could be the manufacturer's seam sealer applied to the Sniper temp sender that is making it difficult to screw in. Has anyone else used this location, and did you have any issues?
 
ace7141 said:
This thread has been immensely helpful.

I have a some questions for the hive mind on the Sniper install, hoping for some insight.

  1. For the distributor install - I have a DUI - do I need to remove the igniter and coil? I assume I do, but want to make sure before I remove it.
  2. Does the DUI need Vac advance? If so, do I pull that from base of Sniper.
  3. Should I pull Brake Booster vacuum from the manifold, or the base of Sniper? Originally, I was pulling from manifold and was going to hook it back up same way, but want to make sure.
  4. For the Charcoal Canister - is there any way to explain to me how that is all routed - I tried my best to glean from the photos and other comments, but I am just plain confused. I have the AC Delco canister, as well as the AC Delco purge valve.
  5. I was going to use the recommended temp sender location, but I stripped my drain plug on the side of the block out.. so that location for temp sender is temporarily on hold, until I can get some welding assistance to get it out.. I was going to use the stock temp sender location in the meantime. It seems to me that the threads aren't the same - but it could be the manufacturer's seam sealer applied to the Sniper temp sender that is making it difficult to screw in. Has anyone else used this location, and did you have any issues?
Click to expand...
Loving these questions! This will help me as well.
 
ace7141 said:
This thread has been immensely helpful.

I have a some questions for the hive mind on the Sniper install, hoping for some insight.

  1. For the distributor install - I have a DUI - do I need to remove the igniter and coil? I assume I do, but want to make sure before I remove it.
  2. Does the DUI need Vac advance? If so, do I pull that from base of Sniper.
  3. Should I pull Brake Booster vacuum from the manifold, or the base of Sniper? Originally, I was pulling from manifold and was going to hook it back up same way, but want to make sure.
  4. For the Charcoal Canister - is there any way to explain to me how that is all routed - I tried my best to glean from the photos and other comments, but I am just plain confused. I have the AC Delco canister, as well as the AC Delco purge valve.
  5. I was going to use the recommended temp sender location, but I stripped my drain plug on the side of the block out.. so that location for temp sender is temporarily on hold, until I can get some welding assistance to get it out.. I was going to use the stock temp sender location in the meantime. It seems to me that the threads aren't the same - but it could be the manufacturer's seam sealer applied to the Sniper temp sender that is making it difficult to screw in. Has anyone else used this location, and did you have any issues?
Click to expand...

1) yes. Pull the signal for the DUI from the black yellow wire

2) yes. In the sniper instructions they will show you the proper port

3) I keep the booster on the same as before the sniper but there is a place in the sniper base if you want

4) not sure how I can explain it better. Maybe check my Warthog 4.4 thread. I documented it there first

5) sorry. Never dealt with that one but many others use the head.
 
5) The factory temp sender has diff threads than the Sniper’s. You can take the sender bung out of the head and find one at the hardware store that matches the head to the Sniper’s.

You can also mount it in the tstat housing if you extend the sender wires.
 
FJ60Cam said:
5) The factory temp sender has diff threads than the Sniper’s. You can take the sender bung out of the head and find one at the hardware store that matches the head to the Sniper’s.

You can also mount it in the tstat housing if you extend the sender wires.
Click to expand...

That helps a ton Cam, thank you! Just the insight I needed there.

wngrog said:
1) yes. Pull the signal for the DUI from the black yellow wire

2) yes. In the sniper instructions they will show you the proper port

3) I keep the booster on the same as before the sniper but there is a place in the sniper base if you want

4) not sure how I can explain it better. Maybe check my Warthog 4.4 thread. I documented it there first

5) sorry. Never dealt with that one but many others use the head.
Click to expand...

Thank you Nolen! I gotta get this wrapped up so I can make it to the Camp Out.
 
ace7141 said:
That helps a ton Cam, thank you! Just the insight I needed there.



Thank you Nolen! I gotta get this wrapped up so I can make it to the Camp Out.
Click to expand...

Holla direct if you need help. I’ll ride up one day if you need me
 
FJ60Cam said:
5) The factory temp sender has diff threads than the Sniper’s. You can take the sender bung out of the head and find one at the hardware store that matches the head to the Sniper’s.

You can also mount it in the tstat housing if you extend the sender wires.
Click to expand...
wngrog said:
Holla direct if you need help. I’ll ride up one day if you need me
Click to expand...
Let me know if you can make it out to Utah to take a look at mine too😂😂
 
ace7141 said:
I really appreciate that, Thanks! I will definitely take you up on that if I hit an impasse, or doesn't look I'll have it complete in time for Campout. So far so good, minus the stripping.
Click to expand...
Been jonesing for Neon Pig so there are selfish reasons
 
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