Taking my HDJ81 off the road for a couple months for a Big service. Want to run the list by you guys. (1 Viewer)

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Mar 21, 2015
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Location
Parker, CO
I just came up on 200k Km. Timing belt is due, and I want to do a bunch of other service while it's down. I am most likely going to pull the engine.

1990 HDJ81
RHD, automatic
In the US

My Current list is:

Timing Belt/water pump replacement
Injection pump rebuild (sending to Yodahed)
Injector rebuild (also Yotahed)
Adjust Valves
Rebuild/Replace Leaky P/S pump
Rebuild Leaky power Steering box
Replace Harmonic balancer
Replace Radiator hoses

Also considering:
Adding extra fuel filter
Repairing glow plugs? (glow plug relay failed years ago)
Adding Sequoia alternator

Questions:
1. Would you rather rebuild or replace the P/S pump?
2. Anyone know a reputable source for a high pressure power steering line? Partsouq doesn't have it. I did find this but I am not familiar with the vendor Toyota 44410-60230 (4441060230) TUBE ASSY, PRESSURE FEED - https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/4441060230
3. I can find plenty of info about rebuilding a LHD steering box but I can't find anything that clarifies if my RHD box is significantly different. Anyone know?
4. What else should I do while I have the engine out?
 
Why would you remove the engine for any of that?

- rebuild the ps pump unless you find something catastrophically wrong when it's apart
- get a local hydraulic shop to remake the ps lines using existing ends
- rhd box is the same just mirrored, if you're going to rebuild consider 105 shaft upgrade at the same time
 
Why would you remove the engine for any of that?

- rebuild the ps pump unless you find something catastrophically wrong when it's apart
- get a local hydraulic shop to remake the ps lines using existing ends
- rhd box is the same just mirrored, if you're going to rebuild consider 105 shaft upgrade at the same time
Thanks for the info.

I was thinking pull the engine for easier access. It's a fair bit of work, It's going to be down for a good amount of time while the pump and injectors are being done, so it's not like time is a huge factor.
 
Pulling the engine is going to take longer than that entire list combined and come with a risk of breaking stuff. Leave the engine in.

Agreed with @Douglas S on everything. I just had custom A/C lines built. Similar to custom P/S. They only ran like $120 per line.

New Toyota P/S pumps only run like $200-$300. In that range, I just replace it. But that's just me.

The previous owner sent my gearbox to RedHead for a rebuild. Turned out fantastic.

I'd get a new reservoir as well. The filter is built into it.
 
so thats about 125000 miles.

my 1HD FT has done 330000 miles. the water pump gave up at 250000 miles. steering box started leaking last week. replaced with a 90000 miles unit, removal of engine wouldnt of really helped with access.

power steering pump started leaking years ago, encased itself in that much crap that it stopped leaking.. i wouldnt remove the engine to replace it though.

IP and injectors untouched.
 
so thats about 125000 miles.

my 1HD FT has done 330000 miles. the water pump gave up at 250000 miles. steering box started leaking last week. replaced with a 90000 miles unit, removal of engine wouldnt of really helped with access.

power steering pump started leaking years ago, encased itself in that much crap that it stopped leaking.. i wouldnt remove the engine to replace it though.

IP and injectors untouched.

I have very annoying P/S leaks from the pump and the box, and the power steering assist barely works. It's just good enough for street driving, it's useless when I'm rock crawling. As far as the IP and injectors, I have mediocre performance and high EGT's considering how built my 1HD-T is. It also has a lot of blue smoke at idle under various conditions. Also something in the fuel system is leaking diesel under the hood, around the injectors.

I know that these things will keep running with a lot of neglect, but I prefer to have my equipment is good order and not leaving stains all over the place.
 
I agree with comments above. None of that warrants the trouble of removing the engine.

Removing the engine fan and shroud will give you enough access to the front of the engine.

I've rebuilt power steering pumps. They are a little tricky the first time, but not a huge deal. If you can source new oem for $200, do that!

You'll need new o ring seal between PS pump and timing case. Same for IP.

If you're rebuilding steering box, I'd also upgrade to 105 sector shaft and pitman arm if you do any wheeling.
 
I would also add replacing the injector lines from the IP to the injectors. Also the seats, grommets etc.
 
Definitely +1 on NOT pulling the engine. I assume you haven't dropped the tranny in these because that's the only reason why you'd think pulling the engine would make this "easier". =)

Harmonic balancer failures are rare enough, and your mileage low enough, that I'm not sure there's a good ROI on that replacement. Maybe wait for the next timing belt job? I'd replace the radiator before the balancer, especially if you take it out (which does make the TB easier).

I simply replaced my PS pump instead of rebuilding. They're $280 at my Toyota dealer's website right now and I don't regret it. A few threads worth reading before you rebuild because there's additional parts not in the rebuild kit you will need and additional PITA's you won't anticipate until you see what other's encountered:
....and I found this video helpful for the swap with the new pump:


Timing belt threads and vids that were helpful to me:


For the valve adjustment, I have the SST if you want to borrow it, I'm in Southern Utah so quick/easy shipping to you. Helpful valve adjustment video:
Land cruiser 1HZ 1HDT 1PZ Valve shim adjustment tutorial - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SEfTV34Tceg&ab_channel=PowerModz
If you don't know this already, you need to take measurements then almost certainly order new shims. So this takes a while to fully execute.

Pump/injectors.......removal is straightforward, getting the right parts and setting timing is a bit of a trick and requires a magnetic mount dial indicator. Useful threads:
How to time a VE Fuel Pump - https://www.youtube.com/watch?index=9&v=OI_iV4nlEq0&list=RD9-GSNR7W73M&app=desktop&ab_channel=DencoDiesel%26Turbo

Other things to consider replacing while you're in there:
  • Valve cover gasket
  • Intake manifold gaskets (highly recommend especially if you're running above factory boost)
  • Glow plugs (you can test these and ensure they're working and keep what you have if they are)
  • Swap Turbo-to-intake hose with silicone instead of factory rubber
  • Thermostat (I went with a non-OEM high flow version)
  • Hoses
  • PS reservoir: hard to come by a factory replacement for RHD, user Bardiya in UAE can source them (see the classifieds). But you can just peel the top off (pop the tabs) and seal it with gasket maker if it's leaking at all, I'd recommend doing that while the system is drained.
  • On the IP pump, the AC idle up actuator/dashpot. I think it's like $30, but again you can easily test this.
  • With the alternator upgrade, MAKE SURE YOU UPSIZE YOUR WIRING between the alternator and PS (LH) battery.
Have fun, sound like quite the project!
 
When you do the timing belt. Make sure you replace the idler pulley, and the $14 tension spring.

Also, harmonic balancer was mentioned, I'd seriously consider changing it. The rubber in it is 25 years old. The rubber will be hard and degraded. It's days are numbered.
 
That's a good point on the RUBBER in the balancer, it's more about time than miles with rubber I guess. They used to measure ozone exposure using cracks in a rubber band as a gauge, ozone attacks rubber. Also, I had one go out on a road trip in my 60-series and that made for quite an adventure.

Save yourself some grief and break the bolt on it using the starter before you tear anything apart.
 
Are you deleting the ACSD on the injection pump? If so you should consider doing the intake manifold gaskets, it makes access to the hose connections that need to be looped really easy.

Personally I rebuild the PS pumps, I get the kit, shaft and the bearing and do the whole lot. I'm yet to see one where the internals aren't fine. Remember to order the big blue o ring and the return o ring. They're not in the kit.
 
None of that warrants the trouble of removing the engine.
That seems to be the consensus.
You'll need new o ring seal between PS pump and timing case. Same for IP.
Thank you!
If you're rebuilding steering box, I'd also upgrade to 105 sector shaft and pitman arm if you do any wheeling.
Is this that common of a fail point? I wheel pretty hard but I'm only on 33's and not planning to go bigger.
I would also add replacing the injector lines from the IP to the injectors. Also the seats, grommets etc.
These items are on the list for sure! Thanks.
Other things to consider replacing while you're in there:
  • Valve cover gasket
  • Intake manifold gaskets (highly recommend especially if you're running above factory boost)
  • Glow plugs (you can test these and ensure they're working and keep what you have if they are)
  • Swap Turbo-to-intake hose with silicone instead of factory rubber
  • Thermostat (I went with a non-OEM high flow version)
  • Hoses
  • PS reservoir: hard to come by a factory replacement for RHD, user Bardiya in UAE can source them (see the classifieds). But you can just peel the top off (pop the tabs) and seal it with gasket maker if it's leaking at all, I'd recommend doing that while the system is drained.
  • On the IP pump, the AC idle up actuator/dashpot. I think it's like $30, but again you can easily test this.
  • With the alternator upgrade, MAKE SURE YOU UPSIZE YOUR WIRING between the alternator and PS (LH) battery.
Have fun, sound like quite the project!
Good stuff. Thanks for all the links, I am building a nice collection of writeups.
When you do the timing belt. Make sure you replace the idler pulley, and the $14 tension spring.
They are on the list!
Also, harmonic balancer was mentioned, I'd seriously consider changing it.
Mine is a little wobbly 😬
Are you deleting the ACSD on the injection pump?
Deleted that a while ago.
 
80 series sector shaft can be twisted or broken surprisingly easily. Yes, is reasonably common failure while wheeling which is why it was upgraded in the 105s and 7*s
 
That seems to be the consensus.

Thank you!

Is this that common of a fail point? I wheel pretty hard but I'm only on 33's and not planning to go bigger.

These items are on the list for sure! Thanks.

Good stuff. Thanks for all the links, I am building a nice collection of writeups.

They are on the list!

Mine is a little wobbly 😬

Deleted that a while ago.
Not to hijack, but can someone explain to this dummy why deleting the ACSD on the injection pump is a good idea?
 
Not to hijack, but can someone explain to this dummy why deleting the ACSD on the injection pump is a good idea?
The ACSD unit is prone to failure with age, and usually failure involves shredding internal components and sending metal shavings through the injection pump.
 
Not to hijack, but can someone explain to this dummy why deleting the ACSD on the injection pump is a good idea?

ACEC7584-E4E9-406C-896F-4EC0EC23387D.jpeg
 
Didn’t see BEB’s on your list, adjust valve clearances too. Have fun, use OEM parts, delete facebook, go outside!
 

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