I am just wondering how hard and involved it is to remove the injection pump from my HDJ81? Need to send it off for rebuild and deciding whether to have the shop remove it or do it myself. How much time does it take?
Removing a 1HDT injection pump (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Malahki
- Start date
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As Rick says, it's not hard, but quite some work.
You need to pull the injector lines, as they do not bend enough on the 1HDT. Note the order in which you take them out, they will go in in reverse order. If you neglect that, you'll be playing with it for a while.
Once you removed the timing belt and pulley from the pump, you will need a pusher/puller to push the pump out of the timing gear. When it comes out, also not the position of the key.
Not a big deal, I'd say a good hour of work.
J
You need to pull the injector lines, as they do not bend enough on the 1HDT. Note the order in which you take them out, they will go in in reverse order. If you neglect that, you'll be playing with it for a while.
Once you removed the timing belt and pulley from the pump, you will need a pusher/puller to push the pump out of the timing gear. When it comes out, also not the position of the key.
Not a big deal, I'd say a good hour of work.
J
Hello guys, my IP is now experiencing the "cold Temperature fuel leak" issue. I gather my seals are due for replacement, I am lucky enough to have a spare engine ( outside in a "spares" truck , I want to pull the spares one, put in the daily driver, and send one out for service. Questions:
1) They show a host of SST's , are they needed to remove?
2) Will a simple gear puller do the job to get no 2 timing gear off?
3) what is required to " push " the pump out once gear and bolts are off?
I figure I would start on the spares truck to practice, once we get some decent temps here in Ottawa, was - 32 here at the beginning of the week, the IP was leaking fuel, so sucking in air so bad that it refused to start. I heated the IP for 40 Mins with a 1500W hair dryer and heavy blanket over top the engine bay, she started right up but sputtered after a few minutes. I gather the cold fuel shrunk the seal again to let air in. I have since inserted a low pressure fuel pump in front of the IP and filter Assy, hoping it will keep the IP from sucking air until it heats up slightly. Let me know how it all worked out for you on the IP rebuild, and how much.
1) They show a host of SST's , are they needed to remove?
2) Will a simple gear puller do the job to get no 2 timing gear off?
3) what is required to " push " the pump out once gear and bolts are off?
I figure I would start on the spares truck to practice, once we get some decent temps here in Ottawa, was - 32 here at the beginning of the week, the IP was leaking fuel, so sucking in air so bad that it refused to start. I heated the IP for 40 Mins with a 1500W hair dryer and heavy blanket over top the engine bay, she started right up but sputtered after a few minutes. I gather the cold fuel shrunk the seal again to let air in. I have since inserted a low pressure fuel pump in front of the IP and filter Assy, hoping it will keep the IP from sucking air until it heats up slightly. Let me know how it all worked out for you on the IP rebuild, and how much.
Hey There -
Pretty straightforward pulling the pump. The FSM has a diagram of the IP line routing with the cylinder #'s if you forget.
Best tool to remove the IP lines is a 17mm crowsfoot LINE wrench socket - has more faces than a regular crowsfoot. Also need a 32mm socket for turning the crank - 12 pt if you're using a breaker bar. If you're doing this by yourself - a 1/2" x 24" ratchet is really handy to turn the crank from up top.
I used a steering wheel puller from Harbor Freight. Just need to buy some new bolts to match the pump and large flat washers. You can also buy the correct puller on eBay - the ones sold for Cummins (Bosch as well) You'll also need an inch/pd torque wrench.
Some notes I took last Spring while doing this:
- take lots of pics. Could be a while before you see the pump again
- remove rubber fuel lines and check for leaks/wear. Prime and check quality of fuel that comes out of filter
Ok, reinstalling the pump is fairly straightforward per the FSM. Some tips:
- handle the pump with care
- clean out fuel lines with air
- clean key and roller bearing on pump with brake cleaner before installing - don't forget to install the 2 o-rings here on pump and nut
- install pump - adjust timing gear to suit pumps key location
- install timing gears and set to BDC.
- rotate crank clockwise TWICE and re-check BDC
Another tip based on an unfortunate thread would be to mark all bolts with a paint marker after they've been torqued correctly.
Timing the pump requires the SST. But, if the rebuilder never replaced the pump housing - you can align the old match marks and go from there. Usually only costs a $100 to time the pump. Any diesel shop that works with Bosch can do it after you're running.
- time pump at BDC and install new copper washer
-torque fuel lines at pump and leave lines 1 turn loose at injectors
- turn engine over 4 times to clean gunk from lines ( keep starter cold in between to avoid fire)
- torque injectors
- fire engine up.
Pretty straightforward pulling the pump. The FSM has a diagram of the IP line routing with the cylinder #'s if you forget.
Best tool to remove the IP lines is a 17mm crowsfoot LINE wrench socket - has more faces than a regular crowsfoot. Also need a 32mm socket for turning the crank - 12 pt if you're using a breaker bar. If you're doing this by yourself - a 1/2" x 24" ratchet is really handy to turn the crank from up top.
I used a steering wheel puller from Harbor Freight. Just need to buy some new bolts to match the pump and large flat washers. You can also buy the correct puller on eBay - the ones sold for Cummins (Bosch as well) You'll also need an inch/pd torque wrench.
Some notes I took last Spring while doing this:
- take lots of pics. Could be a while before you see the pump again
- remove rubber fuel lines and check for leaks/wear. Prime and check quality of fuel that comes out of filter
Ok, reinstalling the pump is fairly straightforward per the FSM. Some tips:
- handle the pump with care
- clean out fuel lines with air
- clean key and roller bearing on pump with brake cleaner before installing - don't forget to install the 2 o-rings here on pump and nut
- install pump - adjust timing gear to suit pumps key location
- install timing gears and set to BDC.
- rotate crank clockwise TWICE and re-check BDC
Another tip based on an unfortunate thread would be to mark all bolts with a paint marker after they've been torqued correctly.
Timing the pump requires the SST. But, if the rebuilder never replaced the pump housing - you can align the old match marks and go from there. Usually only costs a $100 to time the pump. Any diesel shop that works with Bosch can do it after you're running.
- time pump at BDC and install new copper washer
-torque fuel lines at pump and leave lines 1 turn loose at injectors
- turn engine over 4 times to clean gunk from lines ( keep starter cold in between to avoid fire)
- torque injectors
- fire engine up.
Dont worry dear...It will not take much time in condition that it should not have any complicated internal issues.
