1hd-t power steering pump rebuild (1 Viewer)

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I just did my power steering pump this weekend, it was pretty straight forward

ok, that's only mostly true...

first: I was forced to do the job by a hose blowing off of the steering box. It was the low pressure side, but still got fluid allllll over the engine bay, hood, fender, motor, pump, etc

Yuck.

Once I got most of that cleaned off (mostly), I still had years of grime on the vacuum pump and steering pump that needed to get scraped off so that I could access bolts without eating too much atf/oil/dirt gunk.

then, I didn't have my fsm and was mistaken about which bolts to remove, so I pulled two of the three bolts that hold the two halves of the pump together.... you can't get at the third bolt, really. which was good, because it helped me realize that I was doing it wrong.

Oh, also, getting the hoses off of the pump is not convenient. things like the IP and the steering stabilizer make it a little tricky to spin wrenches in there.

finally did get the pump off, and cleaned it up and broke it open on the bench.

first thing that was *definitely* not right was that the 12pt nut on the shaft had worked itself loose over time and at the end of the shaft, where it had basically stripped itself and the shaft. getting it off wasn't too hard, and fortunately I had ordered the shaft when I ordered the rebuild kit

the old shaft had some pretty good wear from the seal, as well.

also- getting the gear off of the shaft took a little bit of work with a slide-hammer gear puller thingy. It would have worked much better to use a more appropriate tool.

Unfortunately: when I ordered my rebuild kit, I got 2 kits (one for me, one for gifu) and one of the kits that came was the wrong kit. I got prompt service on getting a replacement kit, no worries. however, I seem to have kept the wrong kit near the top of the pile and so I managed to have the wrong kit on-hand when the pump was torn down.

the right kit is buried in a box somewhere because I'm part way through moving house. shucks.

so the project got put on hold (and the pump got a fresh coat of paint).

fast forward to day 2.

I found the correct rebuild kit and got to work on the pump again. Unfortunately, I didn't get a replacement nut on saturday when some places were open.... so I tried to find one on sunday. that didn't got well. that nut is very large (14mm ID?). after failing to find it for sale, I did manage to find a replacement by digging through a 5gal bucket of bolts and nuts (thanks to gifu). problem solved.

I should mention that on saturday I did buy a new bearing. Napa had it in stock. part number of the old bearing was 6203z, I think. I'm pretty sure. but this is from memory.

anyway, after getting the new bearing onto the shaft (not that easy), I had trouble getting the shaft and bearing to fit into the space where it needs to go.

as it turns out, the oil seal sits pretty low in the housing. lower than flush. once I got it seated all the way, the shaft and bearing weren't so difficult to put back in. I used a tapered punch in the center of the shaft, and a deadblow hammer to seat the bearing all the way, after coating it with atf. No worries.

then I had some issues with the little woodruff (?) key that sits in the shaft and holds the gear. apparently something had changed over time as the key was just a little wider than the slot in the shaft. I sanded the key down (after spending 20 minutes cleaning/fitting/fiddling/scratching my head) and it fit just fine.

then the gear went back on, but also didn't seem to seat far enough. finally got that settled into place. due to operator error, I marred three teeth on the gear (vise and leather glove is not a good solution when using impact.... better to use wood, or to hold gear with glove in hand. Lesson learned). so I had to clean up the gear teeth with a file. the 'damage' was pretty superficial, but time consuming to fix.

*finally* got the whole thing put together (with red loctite on the nut this time) and got it back into the motor.

had to redo that partway when I forgot to re-route the high pressure line before attaching the intake tube (you'll see what I mean when you get there)

on my motor swap, there isn't much free space down there, so the high pressure line runs very close to the pump.

ok

for real
Now it was time to put the hoses back together

except that I needed to cut a new hose from the pump intake to the reservoir. that's a large hose (5/8" ish) and the high quality gates hose that I had was really (really!) snug. getting it back together was a bear.

and getting to the hose clamp on the pump intake tube is a challenge.

but we finally got it done, and the improved pump is quieter and smoother and all-around, better.
 
Didn't see it mentioned, but for anyone else: put the front on jackstands and pull the pass side wheel to access the pump above the frame in the wheel well. No eating ATF.
 
I just started my pump rebuild and got stalled along the way. Behind that nice seal on the shaft is a needle bearing that does not come with the rebuild kits... It should. When I slid the shaft out, the housing puked out what was left of my needle bearing. :censor:

Located a new bearing in montreal so it won't be here till monday so I made a blanking plate to cover the pump hole and strong armed the beast home. Oh if you want to know the part number for that bearing it's NK 17/16 with a 25mm O.D. 17mm I.D. 16mm in length end to end. Mine was made by NTN. Here is a link to a cross referenced skf bearing:
SKF - Product data

So in the mean time I put in new DEPO headlights and removed the ACSD and installed two new 850CCA batts. :beer:

I'll post a pic of the ruined bearing when I get to my laptop.

Cheers
Gord
 
Here is the pic of the needle bearing. Notice one of the needles is broke in half and the cage is obliterated.

IMG_0173[1].jpg

Gord
IMG_0173[1].jpg
 
yikes. tough luck on that bearing.
mine appeared to be in acceptable shape.

however, if I were just starting out on the rebuild, I would buy buy bearings and just replace them. Easier to do it once and for all.
 
Oh this is irritating, why didn't I read this thread first?!? My power steering pump was getting very noisy so I got the rebuild kit "with bearing". As stated above it doesn't include the needle bearing. Mine "appeared" to be fine, however after rebuilding the thing and bolting it all back together........... Still makes the same dang noise! Must be this needle bearing. I guess I'll start all over again tomorrow...............
 
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Hello guys. Can someone tell me, to split the two halves of the pump open is it just a simple matter of undoing the 3 bolts then splitting into two?
Can I change that "o" ring by simply splitting it then replacing that "o" ring and bolting it back together?
Cheers
 
Just about to rebuild my pump this weekend. I dont have access to a fancy press/SST to get the bearing and shaft in and out of the housing. Is everyone just tapping the shaft and bearing in/out of the housing with a punch or drift and dead blow like sandcruiser? That axial stress on the bearing concerns me.
 
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How do you get access to the pump?

Through the left side wheel well. Remove the tire and the plastic stuff... and it's right there!
 
I found this thread helpful so I thought I would chime in with a few comments after having swapped it out yesterday. It took me 3 hours.

I bought a new OEM pump domestically thru Toyota for $275 instead of rebuilding. Partsouq is $425.

I found a video for a Prado that's similar but easier, if you want to know roughly what you're in for because the FSM is useless:

What's easier about the Prado? The return/suction tube is much larger/longer on our 1HDT versions and has a supporting bracket/bolt that essentially acts as a third bolt holding the PS pump in place. This significantly reduces wiggle room. I managed to get mine out, somehow, with this tube attached because I didn't see an easy way to get to the engine-side bolt on the bottom. Tranny hard lines interfere big time. But I couldn't get it back on with this tube pre-installed. I eventually figured out that if I loosened the tranny hose mount clamp near where the soft lines connect it would allow the hardlines enough wiggle room to squeeze in a 10mm socket between hardlines/oil pan to place the tiny engine-side bolt on the suction port. It would have made removal a lot easier if I had known this beforehand. It also helps to have these hardlines loose for removing and torquing the lower nut attaching the PS pump, so this should be an early step in the removal process.
 

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