T-Max Dual Battery Install

[ADCELAND]

Only a comments.....
I prefer to protect the wire better...with one pastic protection like Flexible Conduit , the vibrations can make a lot of damage during the time, In my car I have IBS control.....

 

[Jordan345]

I believe the he indicated he was putting wire loom over all his wiring for that stated purpose. The write up was excellent - I used it as an example for my T Max DB install

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

I have to reinstall it in my new truck. And am going to clean up the routing some and use the wire loom. It's been 6 months or so without loom and the wires are dirty but not damage.

 

[AATLAS1X]

Adam,

I am going to tackle this tomorrow along with the drawer fit kit that took me months to get.

Also run a dedicated line for the fridge, should be a fun day..... Plus remove that new tent.

 

[SmoothLC]

This will be my summer mod.

Very interested to see the install in your new truck with the "fuseboxes and looming".

Are you running a line to the rear? If so, love to see how you do it.

<yeah, so I can copy it later . . . but seriously, great write up>!

 

[TrekboxX]

Just one thing to add- always disconnect the grounds first, and connect them last. This way if you're in contact with the truck(ground) and you touch the positive you won't get zapped! Great writeup, just did mine and this was a big help!

 

[Dwon]

Sorry I'm late to the thread but I've always wonder about this. Why didn't you make the deep cell the primary battery that runs everything: radio, lights, electrical outlet, dome lights, fridge, etc. and the auxiliary battery a starter battery that only powers the starter. That way when the engine is off the interior lights and outlets would always come from the primary deep cell and the starter battery would never be used at all for anything other than starting. The only wire you'd need to reroute would be the starter, everything else would stay the same.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

Sorry I'm late to the thread but I've always wonder about this. Why didn't you make the deep cell the primary battery that runs everything: radio, lights, electrical outlet, dome lights, fridge, etc. and the auxiliary battery a starter battery that only powers the starter. That way when the engine is off the interior lights and outlets would always come from the primary deep cell and the starter battery would never be used at all for anything other than starting. The only wire you'd need to reroute would be the starter, everything else would stay the same.

I'd say because most people try to leave the factory wiring untouched and replace the primary with a deep cycle die hard platinum 31.

 

[2000UZJ]

I have yet to install my kit. I've got all the parts, just don't have the time!

How is yours holding up Klaus?

 

[OregonLC]

I have yet to install my kit. I've got all the parts, just don't have the time! How is yours holding up Klaus?

Perfect first mod for your 06!

 

[2000UZJ]

Perfect first mod for your 06!

Another great mod for the 2000!

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

I have yet to install my kit. I've got all the parts, just don't have the time! How is yours holding up Klaus?

That 100 was totalled. So I've reinstalled it in my newer truck and did things a little differently. I should take new pictures and update the post. I used loom on everything this time, wired a tray with a fuse holder, Aux fusebox, and circuit breaker, all military terminals and covers, mounted the ARB compressor and wiring, RetrofitSource wiring harness, and winch.

 

[fireball]

Klause - just found this thread while gathering info for an aux battery install. Here's a thank you for the very helpful initial write-up, and a gentle nudge to encourage posting any updated photos/info.

Thanks!!!

 

[yogi man]

Excellent write up, I also think you used the correct size of cable due to voltage drop over a long run.

Thank-you.

 

[Jordan345]

I have had this setup in my cruiser for over a year- I have never had any issues and love being able to link for winching and having the backup power if main goes dead


Sent from my iPhone

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

Glad to hear it's working for everyone. 1/0 Cable is definitely overkill. But isn't that what we're all about? The lugs and wires costs are pretty similar with any of these big gauges.

I helped my friend do the cheapo version of this install on his Discover. We just used the cables supplied with the T-max, no in line fuses on the battery leads, a Die Hard Gold AGM 34R battery and a stainless steel generic battery tray bolted to the fender. And it works.

So the level of overkill is up to you.

I'll try to update the schematic. I've added some things to the set up. Winch, etc.

 

[fireball]

Just finished installing this last night. It's a huge pain to wire everything cleanly!

Two quick questions:
- did you use the aux battery support bracket? I wasn't able to install it as per instructions with the solenoid in the location you used. Had to use two thick washers b/w the support bracket and aux tray instead of the supplied black spacers.

- When driving home last night everything appeared to work, and nothing caught fire! 2 wins. Confirmed the displayed voltage with my multimeter. When I turned the car off, the light stayed on the display for "linked" and a few of the upper LEDs remained on. I waited for a few minutes but it didn't appear to turn off. This morning all LEDs were off, and when I hit the display button it showed the voltage and indicated the batteries were un-linked. Is this correct operation? When/how does the controller unlink the solenoid?

Thanks again for your write up. Tough work leaning over that PS fender connecting all the wires.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

Having the solenoid in that place makes it less than accessible and maybe not the best location. But I was saving the top for the ARB compressor.

That operation sounds right. My batteries remain linked for a minute after shutting off the car. Then, you hear click and they disconnect. They should be disconnected when the cars not on. Mine sometimes disconnect while idling also. Whenever the voltage drops.

I'd like to just sell a T-Max dual battery kit, but idk how the liabilities of that would work. It's a lot cheaper and more time efficient to make 4 "kits" at once, than to get all the supplies yourself. I had the advantage of having to reinstall mine in another truck. And I used it to clean up the wiring some. I still owe everyone new pictures.

 

[Jack90210]

Very neat work, and the 'overkill factor' (heavy wire gauges, marine-quality components, care in routing) is always a plus in my book for the long-term reliability of electrical work. Thank you for sharing.

 

[fireball]

Klaus-I thought the very same thing! Even after reading your article this is still a daunting task to assemble everything needed for a super clean install. I've got a bunch of left over materials.

Exact length of wire needed, number of terminals, amount of regular heat shrink vs. adhesive heat shrink, etc. All those little things add up!

Here are a few tips from my experience:
1. 10-12' of main wire should be enough for power and ground
2. If using a DHP battery as an aux battery you'll need longer j-bolts than the ones Slee provides. I ordered from here: J-bolts from McMaster Note that those are 3/8" x7" which is slightly bigger diameter than Slee and will necesitate enlarging the holes in the mounting bracket that goes over the top of the battery.
3. You need to install the j-bolts before you install the battery mount! Even the Slee ones don't fit in when the battery mount is in place. There isn't enough room to insert the end of the bolt and wiggle it around on the side closest to the fender.
4. I had a cheap crimping tool that I mounted to my vice, inserted the wire and terminal and beat the crap out of with a BFH. This worked for the wires that were loose, but I needed to add some terminals after a few wires were mounted and bought this tool from HF: $50 hydraulic wire crimper
5. No fuse holder was included in my T-max kit, I bought an ATM fuse holder for the green wire that powers the display in the cabin. This way all the fuses in the truck are ATM style!
6. Battery terminals - I wanted to use military style battery terminals. This style is available online, amazon, napa, etc. They all seem the same. They also kind of suck. First, the flat on the terminal doesn't seat properly with the square head of the mounting bolt, so you need two wrenches to tighten/loosen the terminal. Secondly, the other bolt to attach your lugs is 3/8" diameter. Unfortunately 5/16" is much more common! My circuit breaker and fuses (both Bluesue) were 5/16" diameter. So again, count your wires and terminals and order appropriately. I used a unibit to drill out my terminals to fit the mil-spec battery terminals which was a PITA.
7. Grab a 6 pack of nylon cable clamps to attach the new wires to the firewall. You can use the mounting bolts for the AC lines.
8. You'll need to figure out a mounting solution for the fuse by the main battery, fuse the aux battery, circuit break or fuse to your wire going back to the sub-panel in the cargo area if you have one, and mounting location for compressor, winch controller box and anything else you'll want to stuff under there, so lay it all out and plan ahead!

That's all for now - hopefully we can continue to make this thread helpful and save a bit of time for folks looking to do this.