I have a 4-speed t case that needs to be separated, what is your guy's method to separate them?
I've tried some pry bar persuade with no luck.
I've tried some pry bar persuade with no luck.
T-Case Seperation
- Thread starter Jackson Hanes
- Start date
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- fj40
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Missed a bolt?
Did you remove the bolts inside the pto cover
- Thread starter
- #4
I can check, I noticed it moving slightly.
Ill look for missed bolts now; if that's no use is there a puller I can buy or something I can fab up to assist?
Ill look for missed bolts now; if that's no use is there a puller I can buy or something I can fab up to assist?
John McVicker
SILVER Star
No puller that I am aware of. Maybe try a ‘good’…a really good… rubber mallet & lightly tap, tap, tap. And yes, do make certain you have removed all of the bolts.
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
The rear bearing on the tranny output/Tcase input shaft often fits very snugly on the shaft. If the rear bearing will not slip off the shaft, then the case can not move to the rear. This is what you have to overcome to get it all apart.
I have used a variety of methods over the years to remove these defiant tcases. Prybars are handy, but be careful not to mar the aluminum of the case. I am paritial to the flat "wonder bar" sty;e for this. Eventually the case will be far enough off that the prybars will be ineffective. At this point some short pieces of 2x4 can be used as spacers and will also protect the case from the bars.
Wedges to drive in can be useful too. Wooden ones better than steel. I have come across heavy duty plastic "splitting wedges" for splitting firewood. These work great.
It can be awkward, but you can also make some progress using a drift through the PTO window to tap at the edge of the bearing and drive it a tiny bit at a time backwards on the shaft.
Particularly stubborn case can take combinations of all of the above.
Mark...
I have used a variety of methods over the years to remove these defiant tcases. Prybars are handy, but be careful not to mar the aluminum of the case. I am paritial to the flat "wonder bar" sty;e for this. Eventually the case will be far enough off that the prybars will be ineffective. At this point some short pieces of 2x4 can be used as spacers and will also protect the case from the bars.
Wedges to drive in can be useful too. Wooden ones better than steel. I have come across heavy duty plastic "splitting wedges" for splitting firewood. These work great.
It can be awkward, but you can also make some progress using a drift through the PTO window to tap at the edge of the bearing and drive it a tiny bit at a time backwards on the shaft.
Particularly stubborn case can take combinations of all of the above.
Mark...
I used a 6# lead hammer (doesn't mar aluminum.) Those plastic door/window wedge/shims are fairly tough. Use like 4 to apply even extract pressure once you get a separation to insert them.
Post a picture, then listen carefully to what Mark W says. He knows, been there and done that.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Do not have a FSM handy but thought I remembered a puller shown. The back cover with a hole drilled and nut weld with a thread to match another puller would probably do the trick. With all six bolts in the cover to the transfer case it would pull even.
From the Haynes manual. My FSM are in another location. I always have a Haynes manual handy.
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cruiserkev
3 decades in the same FJ40
Been a while but I used a combination of plastic wedges, a prybar, a giant flat screwdriver and a dead blow hammer to separate my case from the transmission. Both were out of the cruiser and it only took 10 minutes. Don't forget about the bolts inside the case itself.
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Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Been a while.but remember two bolts inside the PTO opening.
cruiserkev
3 decades in the same FJ40
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
A puller of some sort is by far the best way. Depending on exactly what puller you have to work with, clearance to use it under the rig, with the tranny and t/case still installed can be a problem sometimes.
Mark...
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
A puller of some sort is by far the best way. Depending on exactly what puller you have to work with, clearance to use it under the rig, with the tranny and t/case still installed can be a problem sometimes.
Mark...
When a H42 has been installed in a pre 9/72 frame lie my 9/67 even if the transfer case would just slip off the transmission there is no room to do it if the frame is still intact. My 65 FJ45LP-B pulling just the transfer case was easy. Everything else seems just as easy to pull the combo.
I will likely be facing this down the road, but I thought the picture of the puller looked alot like the ones I bought years ago to pull the brake drums off the tapered shaft Spicer axles on my '54 car. This style puller is still available on ebay. These three arms have approx 7.5 inches hole to hole. Can anyone provide spacing for the attachment points shown in the Haynes manual picture?
I welded some drilled steel tabs on the jaws of a cheap Chinese 3-jaw puller and made my own puller that mimicked the one shown in the FSM. Since great force needed is not great, a half-baked puller like this will do.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Do these come to a point on the end or flat? If flat I would worry about damaging the threads on the end the transmission tailshaft.
Different manufacturers, but they both have a little point. I just checked out an OTC tool hub puller #7394 on line and it appears to have the point as well.
- Thread starter
- #19
Hey guys I got it separated, I ended up calling some friends over and took about an hour.
A combo of swearing and pry bars got it apart.
Thanks for the help guys
A combo of swearing and pry bars got it apart.
Thanks for the help guys
Cussing in Japanese is 90% more effective
