Swapping a VW into a 1st gen IFS 4 runner (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I've heard of folks using Gen3 switches in Gen1 4R. FYI, the Gen1 switch is still available from Toyota.
 
Awesome. Good to know I can find a replacement if this one dies.
 
Service bulletin: when you install all new charge pipes, hose connectors and t bolt clamps retorque at 100 miles and again at 500 miles. Seems if you don't your rig will wait until the coldest morning to date this season to blow off a connector. And obviously this will happen during your morning commute. If you want to know what your rig would run like if it had a 5hp Briggs motor, try it with a charge pipe disconnected on your diesel swapped rig.

Why I took the time to retorque all my coolant hose clamps but not my charge pipes I'd beyond me.

Also, the 4.30 gears continue to impress with a much happier torque range rpm at 35 mph and 45 mph posted speed limits. When cruising at 65 to 70 mph I'm around 2500 rpms with plenty of power to accelerate to pass without down shifting. She's geared well enough to ride 80 but the high center of gravity paired with crappy roads keeps me at 65 to 70 unless there is zero traffic and I'm on a long straight stretch of road. The high speed maneuvering of this rig feels like it might result in barrel roll and I don't want to do any Rusty Wallace impersonations.

Playing with gear ratio calculators I feel like a 6l80e with 4.88s would give the best on and off road performance and economy but untill I come into some serious cash I think I'm going to hang with what I have.
 
My IAT were a little hotter than I'd like. I was hitting maintaining 120 to 150 on a 70 degree day. My 7.3 excursion stays 70 on a 70 degree day.


Added a 6 inch electric fan and air scoop to the skid plate. Lowered it 20 to 50 degrees overall.

I purchased a few other intercoolers I'm going to play with to try to get the IAT closer to ambient temps without the use of a fan and I'll post updates.

Still getting around 23 mpg. Hit almost 25 after getting the IAT down a bit, will need to run a few more tanks to see if it was just a fluke or if the cooler intake air really helps mpg. I was really hoping for 30 mpg with this swap but seems this lift, tires and bumpers are making that goal difficult
 
Still working out the ac. My ac compressor is a variable compressor.


I replaced my original expansion valve with new denso. No difference.

Replaced my drier with new denso, no difference.

Replace my condenser with a pacific brand more efficient style and now I'm getting vent temps down into the upper 50s on a humid upper 80 degrees day.

If I had a hard top with a little more insulation I would imagine the improved cab circulation would bring it down further.

After dark testing down in the 70s, still humid took vent temps down to @48

I tried both R12a and r134, the r134 ran higher pressures. The r134 got cooler across-the-board.
 
Are the baffles working well in the dash and are you sure the heater valve is closing all the way?
 
Not only have I replaced all the foam in the blend doors and on the HVAC mating surfaces but due to the design of the TDI coolant system I have bypass tees that allows coolant to still flow through the engine side heater core system even with the valve cut into the off position.

I can barely crack the heater level and take 57 degrees to 78.
 
My next experiment, will be during the winter, is to remove the evaporator and delete the expansion valve. I will then modify the inlet to going into the fire wall to accept an orifice tube.


I'm just guessing here as I my AC experience is limited to the purchase of a pump, gauges and YouTube but having the expansion valve and variable compressor both in the same system it's likely limiting my efficiency. At this point it's a sub 100 dollar experiment....so long as it doesn't make things worse what do I have to lose?

I will use the orifice tube from the Passat
 
Last edited:
Question for all you Toyota 8" axle gurus. I'm running a 4cyl rear axle. Inside it I have a v6 third with 4.30 gears. If I want to go with a locker , do I need to buy any special bearings to fit the v6 locking spool in my 4 cyl housing?


Or do I just assemble the new e locker spool with standard v6 bearings and toss her in like I did the stock open v6 diff?
 
bearings are specific to the third only. the housings are all the same.

the only special bearing is using a v6 locker /carrier in a 4cyl chunk.
 
Sweet, thank you for the quick response.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom