I've heard of folks using Gen3 switches in Gen1 4R. FYI, the Gen1 switch is still available from Toyota.
Swapping a VW into a 1st gen IFS 4 runner (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter dohcdelsol93
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dohcdelsol93
snoogans
- Thread starter
- #322
Awesome. Good to know I can find a replacement if this one dies.
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
- Thread starter
- #323
Service bulletin: when you install all new charge pipes, hose connectors and t bolt clamps retorque at 100 miles and again at 500 miles. Seems if you don't your rig will wait until the coldest morning to date this season to blow off a connector. And obviously this will happen during your morning commute. If you want to know what your rig would run like if it had a 5hp Briggs motor, try it with a charge pipe disconnected on your diesel swapped rig.
Why I took the time to retorque all my coolant hose clamps but not my charge pipes I'd beyond me.
Also, the 4.30 gears continue to impress with a much happier torque range rpm at 35 mph and 45 mph posted speed limits. When cruising at 65 to 70 mph I'm around 2500 rpms with plenty of power to accelerate to pass without down shifting. She's geared well enough to ride 80 but the high center of gravity paired with crappy roads keeps me at 65 to 70 unless there is zero traffic and I'm on a long straight stretch of road. The high speed maneuvering of this rig feels like it might result in barrel roll and I don't want to do any Rusty Wallace impersonations.
Playing with gear ratio calculators I feel like a 6l80e with 4.88s would give the best on and off road performance and economy but untill I come into some serious cash I think I'm going to hang with what I have.
Why I took the time to retorque all my coolant hose clamps but not my charge pipes I'd beyond me.
Also, the 4.30 gears continue to impress with a much happier torque range rpm at 35 mph and 45 mph posted speed limits. When cruising at 65 to 70 mph I'm around 2500 rpms with plenty of power to accelerate to pass without down shifting. She's geared well enough to ride 80 but the high center of gravity paired with crappy roads keeps me at 65 to 70 unless there is zero traffic and I'm on a long straight stretch of road. The high speed maneuvering of this rig feels like it might result in barrel roll and I don't want to do any Rusty Wallace impersonations.
Playing with gear ratio calculators I feel like a 6l80e with 4.88s would give the best on and off road performance and economy but untill I come into some serious cash I think I'm going to hang with what I have.
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
- Thread starter
- #324
My IAT were a little hotter than I'd like. I was hitting maintaining 120 to 150 on a 70 degree day. My 7.3 excursion stays 70 on a 70 degree day.
Added a 6 inch electric fan and air scoop to the skid plate. Lowered it 20 to 50 degrees overall.
I purchased a few other intercoolers I'm going to play with to try to get the IAT closer to ambient temps without the use of a fan and I'll post updates.
Still getting around 23 mpg. Hit almost 25 after getting the IAT down a bit, will need to run a few more tanks to see if it was just a fluke or if the cooler intake air really helps mpg. I was really hoping for 30 mpg with this swap but seems this lift, tires and bumpers are making that goal difficult
Added a 6 inch electric fan and air scoop to the skid plate. Lowered it 20 to 50 degrees overall.
I purchased a few other intercoolers I'm going to play with to try to get the IAT closer to ambient temps without the use of a fan and I'll post updates.
Still getting around 23 mpg. Hit almost 25 after getting the IAT down a bit, will need to run a few more tanks to see if it was just a fluke or if the cooler intake air really helps mpg. I was really hoping for 30 mpg with this swap but seems this lift, tires and bumpers are making that goal difficult
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
- Thread starter
- #325
Still working out the ac. My ac compressor is a variable compressor.
I replaced my original expansion valve with new denso. No difference.
Replaced my drier with new denso, no difference.
Replace my condenser with a pacific brand more efficient style and now I'm getting vent temps down into the upper 50s on a humid upper 80 degrees day.
If I had a hard top with a little more insulation I would imagine the improved cab circulation would bring it down further.
After dark testing down in the 70s, still humid took vent temps down to @48
I tried both R12a and r134, the r134 ran higher pressures. The r134 got cooler across-the-board.
I replaced my original expansion valve with new denso. No difference.
Replaced my drier with new denso, no difference.
Replace my condenser with a pacific brand more efficient style and now I'm getting vent temps down into the upper 50s on a humid upper 80 degrees day.
If I had a hard top with a little more insulation I would imagine the improved cab circulation would bring it down further.
After dark testing down in the 70s, still humid took vent temps down to @48
I tried both R12a and r134, the r134 ran higher pressures. The r134 got cooler across-the-board.
Are the baffles working well in the dash and are you sure the heater valve is closing all the way?
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
- Thread starter
- #327
Not only have I replaced all the foam in the blend doors and on the HVAC mating surfaces but due to the design of the TDI coolant system I have bypass tees that allows coolant to still flow through the engine side heater core system even with the valve cut into the off position.
I can barely crack the heater level and take 57 degrees to 78.
I can barely crack the heater level and take 57 degrees to 78.
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
- Thread starter
- #328
My next experiment, will be during the winter, is to remove the evaporator and delete the expansion valve. I will then modify the inlet to going into the fire wall to accept an orifice tube.
I'm just guessing here as I my AC experience is limited to the purchase of a pump, gauges and YouTube but having the expansion valve and variable compressor both in the same system it's likely limiting my efficiency. At this point it's a sub 100 dollar experiment....so long as it doesn't make things worse what do I have to lose?
I will use the orifice tube from the Passat
I'm just guessing here as I my AC experience is limited to the purchase of a pump, gauges and YouTube but having the expansion valve and variable compressor both in the same system it's likely limiting my efficiency. At this point it's a sub 100 dollar experiment....so long as it doesn't make things worse what do I have to lose?
I will use the orifice tube from the Passat
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dohcdelsol93
snoogans
- Thread starter
- #329
Question for all you Toyota 8" axle gurus. I'm running a 4cyl rear axle. Inside it I have a v6 third with 4.30 gears. If I want to go with a locker , do I need to buy any special bearings to fit the v6 locking spool in my 4 cyl housing?
Or do I just assemble the new e locker spool with standard v6 bearings and toss her in like I did the stock open v6 diff?
Or do I just assemble the new e locker spool with standard v6 bearings and toss her in like I did the stock open v6 diff?
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
- Thread starter
- #331
Sweet, thank you for the quick response.
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
- Thread starter
- #332
One of the setbacks of a daily driver. Rear ended on my work commute
Tailgate bent in so far the window didn't function. I did bend I back out enough to roll down but she still binds a bit due to inner structure being equally pushed forward. Possibly salvageable but not without a good bit of finesse, trial and error.
The plastic bezel is cracked and a few mounting tabs broken. No longer mint. I'm sure it's unobtainable new.
The 4x4 innovations bumper was pushed into the lower portion of my tailgate as well as upper but immediately popped back out.
I've either got a bent tire carrier and or bend spare wheel as the tire is now making contact with one side of the tire mount support arms. The pivot mount for the swing out may be bent slightly upward. I'll need to park on level ground to verify. There's so much slightly jacked it's hard to be certain. This slides into the rear frame and bolts in so it's possible that could be tweaked slightly
Thanks to current sales prices for these 4 runners in rust free, turn key daily driving condition and a well documented ih8mud build thread for insight into service history I'm hoping they won't try to total it out over a spare tire, new bumper and tailgate but they may try.
The infinity is no doubt a total loss.
Tailgate bent in so far the window didn't function. I did bend I back out enough to roll down but she still binds a bit due to inner structure being equally pushed forward. Possibly salvageable but not without a good bit of finesse, trial and error.
The plastic bezel is cracked and a few mounting tabs broken. No longer mint. I'm sure it's unobtainable new.
The 4x4 innovations bumper was pushed into the lower portion of my tailgate as well as upper but immediately popped back out.
I've either got a bent tire carrier and or bend spare wheel as the tire is now making contact with one side of the tire mount support arms. The pivot mount for the swing out may be bent slightly upward. I'll need to park on level ground to verify. There's so much slightly jacked it's hard to be certain. This slides into the rear frame and bolts in so it's possible that could be tweaked slightly
Thanks to current sales prices for these 4 runners in rust free, turn key daily driving condition and a well documented ih8mud build thread for insight into service history I'm hoping they won't try to total it out over a spare tire, new bumper and tailgate but they may try.
The infinity is no doubt a total loss.
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dohcdelsol93
snoogans
- Thread starter
- #334
Unfortunately the swing out carrier turned into a damage multiple. But the lower portion of the bumper did keep her out of my tailgate.
I could live with the small amount of damage at the bottom of the tailgate
I could live with the small amount of damage at the bottom of the tailgate
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
- Thread starter
- #335
Other than putting this on a dual swing out set up, the tire mount has too much leverage when pushed upward/forward. I'm not sure I can make this much more protective without tying it into some sort of exocage. .which is likely needed with how bad drivers are getting these days.
a real body guy could probably save the gate.
bummer either way.
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
- Thread starter
- #337
I hope her insurance feels the same way. The biggest issue is the inner sheet metal behind the bezel. It won't be easy to get in there to spot weld it back in place.
I can do body work and paint (if you've followed this thread you'll see where the back fender was completely replaced all the way to tailgate door jam)
I just can't do it when it's cold. My shop isn't exactly heated...under a metal carport...in December. Highs in the 40s today.
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
- Thread starter
- #338
I should also note I can't paint match for crap. Had some factory spot welds start rusting at the passenger rear wheel well. Rusting inside out as they usually do.
I was able to cut and reweld (flux core but it does all my body work) metal back in place. I attempted to match the paint but it was too light in color and texture wasn't an exact match where I did the repair. Now she has the black trim you see pictured.
The paint has a metallic tint and it's nearly impossible for me to get one batch the match the next. I just don't have the eye for it... but enough OCD to not like it when it dries.
I was able to cut and reweld (flux core but it does all my body work) metal back in place. I attempted to match the paint but it was too light in color and texture wasn't an exact match where I did the repair. Now she has the black trim you see pictured.
The paint has a metallic tint and it's nearly impossible for me to get one batch the match the next. I just don't have the eye for it... but enough OCD to not like it when it dries.
Sorry to get off topic but, did you ever try the orifice tube in your A/C?
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
- Thread starter
- #340
I have not. Once I got the pressures dialed in and slow leak(s) resolved I had temps down to about 48 coming out my vents. I also rewired my cooling fan to run as soon as the AC clutch kicks in rather than be pressure based.
Even as daytime temps went near 100 it was about as comfortable as my excursion or the discovery 2 ac system.
I've am rebuilding the holding tank and macerator system in the boat this winter. If I have left over funds my plan is to move my intercooler from the skid plate up where the radiator is mounted now.
I will remove the 4 runner replacement aluminum radiator and add in a mini Cooper @ 900-1200 cc radiator.
So long as this provides sufficient cooling, as it is very small, this will provide much better flow to intercooler. My current intake air temps can get up to 120-140 during extended times of acceleration as temps approach 100.
The reason this could help my ac cool more efficiently is more space for dual fans.
I could mount two large cooling fans between the AC condenser and the radiator/intercooler.
One the intercooler side would only activate when the AC is turned on. The other would power when the AC is on or when. The temps reach 210.
My temps have never reached 210 other than when trying to bleed the coolant system of air after having to drain the coolant for repairs.
The 4 runner radiator is only about 22" side to side. Not a ton of from for a side by side intercooler and radiator up front. I wish I could fit a 92 Civic radiator.
The closer I get the intake air temps to outside temps it's also likely I'll improve mpg. I'm still getting 24-25 about every tank. I'd like closer to 30
