Swapping a VW into a 1st gen IFS 4 runner (2 Viewers)

[dohcdelsol93]

I need some suggestions from my fellow mud members. Im using 1.5 inch ball joint lift spacers up front. I will be running a tube winch front bumper and swing out rear tire carrier tube bumper in back. I will ditch the hard top for a ktt soft top and add a roof rack.

I want the rear springs to lift me about an inch higher than fronts to level out under load rather than squat.

I also plan on 1 to 2 inch body lift to help clear the diesel swap and clear 285/70/17 approx 33x11.5s while flexed. I want to run relaxed torsion bars for comfort as shell be 99% on road daily driver.


Would you use pro comp 4 inch rear springs?

Or 2 inch ome springs and add extended shackle, maybe bastard spring by adding the large low thick spring plate from my existing pack if i need more lift?

I don't want to have to torque the bars to get it close to level or look like a nova drag car.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

Drum brakes were bad. Wheel cylinder frozen as well as parking brake acuator pivots. Found all the parts i ordered for the 86 were wrong. I have 10 inch drums and the older 85 or earlier style wheel cylinder with long fingers. Got one side done last night, will try to post up pics of new parts installed tonight. I did verify 4.30 matching front and rear diffs.

Also got my 2nd incorrect heater core arrived. If i go back to a 1985 model i found a 3rd heavy duty heat option which happens to match my core measurements.

 

[pappy]

I just rebuilt my rear brakes. Everything was 35 years old, including the drums . I went aftermarket for the drums, shoes, and springs. The rest was still available from Toyota. The main return springs in the kit I bought were wrong out of the bag (everything else was fine). I ended up getting those springs from Toyota too.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

Ive had the rear axle sitting on blocks for a while now to see if the springs would sag but they have held a nice arch. I put an add a leaf on her to get another 1.5 to 2 inches of lift. I'm aiming for the already mentioned 33 inch tires so with the added body lift I will be doing she should clear those nicely. Pulled the spring packs apart, went at them with a wire brush on the grinder then a coat of random choice spray paint. Looks like something you'd see on a jeep forum.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

I have one modded spring pack mounted. I will take the other to the shop to pull apart, clean, paint and mod this week. Since im working solo on this it was easier to drop one spring at a time. I'm not going to be able to measure the height increase until both are mounted. I had 17.5 inches from fender to mid hub stock.



I also got the old exhaust removed.

Once this is done I just lack my front brake rotors(in transit....still) and then installing the 94 4runner calipers.

Then suspension is done and the passat engine/wiring harness pull begins. Timing belt and balance shaft delete shall begin. I'm on the fence on wiring. Do I wire the entire 4 runner with the passat harness. Monsoon stereo system, remote locks, heated seats, better lighting system or do stand alone engine with 4runner wiring. I have a few weeks to figure this out. Having the complete car makes an entire system upgrade possible. I still want to use the passat steering column.

 

[clx16]

i think you are going to have to cut up the harness some anyway since I doubt the 4runner had ABS etc. but changing a few plugs here and there should be fairly easy to fit the likely much less items on the 4runner.... for example. likely less interior lights and power sources for passengers...

 

[dohcdelsol93]

The wiring portion of this project will suck.

I have both modded rear spring packs mounted and now from center hub to fender I have 24 inches of clearance. I sat the rear axle down on blocks again to see how much it will settle.

I'm at a stand still until I get my new used wheel bearing hubs in, when I went to mount the brake rotors I found out I had solid axle brake hubs. Wasnt a pleasant or cheap suprise being the ifs hubs are highly sought after for brake upgrades for the early solid mini truck axles.
My rear shoes are adjusted about as much possible without being able to bleed them so my parking brake still isn't functional yet.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

I like how @clx16 liked my unfortunate wheel bearing hub situation post.

 

[clx16]

Your misfortune makes my life seem like less of an aberration. The struggle is real for you and me!

 

[dohcdelsol93]

Got the power train removed from the passat today. As you can see this engine is set up like a rwd vehicle. Not only is it much more powerful than the 1.9 tdi motors in stock from but also easier to drop into rwd vehicles thanks to not only motor mount brackets but also the OEM starter orientation. The passat b5 and b5.5 came in an awd or 4motion option. Sadly the USA never got a diesel 4motion passat but the rest of the world did. A 6 speed 4motion b5.5 wagon is a nice vehicle to build but being this is a sedan she's been destined for a yota since day one. I tossed between an xterra, square body trooper or montero and dare i say it....a yj/tj jeep but I canf find much to beat a yota platform.

On the bhw the starter mounts in a near idential spot as the 22re where the fwd 1.9 tdi motos (jetta/golf/bug) have the starter hanging on the transmisson side. The manifold and turbo on 1.9 tdi fwd models are not engine side starter mount friendly where the stock rated 130 hp/240 ft lbs torque 2.0 bhw tdi already came with a higher mount turbo for plenty of starter clearance. With a reflash tune and no additional mods she is 170 hp and 300 ft lbs of torque. Compared to the 4bd1t and 4bd2t motors I swapped into a 60 and 40 this will be a hot rod at half the weight.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

The TDI motors have a front mounted sump so on you solid axle guys this is something that needs attention. Most good weld shops can mod a cast aluminum pan. I'm hoping with the body lift and diff drop I wont have clearance issues. We will find out soon.

On the back of my cylinder head I have a coolant outlet and a tandem pump that need a few inches of access to service in the future. The tandem pump provides high fuel pressure like an hpop in a PSD as well as the vacuum for brakes. This means the engine can't be positioned tight against the fire wall. Some have deleted the tandem pump to go with electronic vac and high pressure pumps. Seems over complicated as drive shaft mods don't cost much and moving the trans cross member isn't a huge feat.

Ive found the r150f front drive shaft is skinnier than the w56 front drive shaft that came with the 4runner, im hoping this helps with my sway bar clearance issue.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

Wheel hub rebuid 2.0 has started. Got my correct hubs in yesterday. Got the new bearings pressed out of the wrong hubs and into the new used correct hubs. Brake rotors are mounted and drivers side caliper is on. I have the hard brake line installed along with stainless braided extended line.

I'll remove the passenger side hub and start on it tomorrow.

1994 4runner calipers, pads and rotors.

I got the transmisson and flywheel removed from the BHW motor, she's ready to go on the stand.

Last but not least I have the new heater core mounted in its case. All the foam on the flapper doors was gone. I saw where a member rebuilt theirs with some foam that looked to be from maybe an arts and crafts section of hobby lobby. It was way too thick.


I used pre filter wrap, rotary part number 7095 (or 7094) one part number is for the air filter and the other is for the foam...you only need the foam. These are the part numbers that replace an older Briggs and Stratton air filter for single cyliner engines commonly found in riding lawn mowers.

Took about 4 pre filters to do every flapper. I removed each flapper, wire brushed them down to bare metal with the wire wheel. Cleaned with brake cleaner. Once dry I shot with 3m spray adhesive and layed on pre cut foam.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

A few snaps of the blend door.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

So the old hubs (incorrect ones that came with the truck) the bearings and seals installed with no issues.

The new used correct hubs, the 1st one had no issues. The 2nd one gave me fits. The bearings and races win in fine but ruined a seal trying to install. After taking a angle grinder to clean the housing the seal went in. I love when a 20 min job turns into an hour long cussing marathon.

 

[jsabowabo]

That is a really involved swap compared to doing a 3.4. I really like the torque output of that 1.9 Diesel; puts the 3.4 to shame. Great work!

 

[dohcdelsol93]

I'm using the 2.0 BHW diesel that came in the 2004 and 2005 B5.5 passats. Same bolt pattern as a 1.9 tdi (ALH) but more powerful and doesn't need any internal upgrades until you get to about 200 hp. The ALH doesnt have the balance shaft issues the BHW has but can be easily deleted before install. I'll be covering that part of the swap in the next few weeks.


And thank you!

 

[dohcdelsol93]

Heat/cooling duct system is back in.

Found a broken cable(blue) that controls the heat/cool control.

Brakes are now pretty much bled. I'll need a helper to finish them up. Had to remove and the tie off the lsvp arm or whatever its called that regulates the rear brake pressure to get it to bleed properly. With the lift I probably need to keep the rod zip tied to the frame. Once running ill test run gravel to make sure the front wheels lock up before the rear. I'll make adjustments at that time if needed. I find its a little difficult to bleed wheel cylinders with a hand pump and get them 100%. I'll con the little lady into helping finish the bleeding job maybe in the morning.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

Got the climate controls installed. This rig came with 2 of these center dash pieces. One a faded grey/brown and the other this more presentable blue. Thank God all the cables but one was good. The blue one had a good outer casing but broken inner rod. I was going to make a new one out of push/pull choke cable but found an old heater cable that i pulled out of my 40 years ago. It had a good inner cable. I made an educated guess as to what the inner legnth was, there is some adjustment at the anchor point near the water valve. I can blow through the hose easily when pushed to hot, I cannot blow through it easily when set to cold.

On the subject of heater cores, on yotas I've swapped (40, 60 and now the 1st gen 4 runner) all the heater cores have a push/pull valve that cut water circulation when the heat is not in use. On the VW the circulation is always in effect even if heat is off.

The Germans seem to over engineer everything. I don't think cutting off water flow in the black of the block/head on these motors is a good idea. I also don't think having hot water circulating in the heater core is a good idea for a daily driver 4 runner in the southeast summers.

I will either install a 2nd push pull valve to work as a bypass for the heater core, opening simultaneously as the main valve closes or I will simply put a Y and always have a bypass hose going. The 2nd would be the least work. It will be easy to test....start up on cool day and see if I have desirable heat coming from the heater core. If not I know I'll need to be able to cut off the bypass.


Also the little lady has yet to help me bleed the brakes. A cel just flashed in her car so I think I have leverage to get it done soon.

 

[clx16]

If you happen to paint any of that plastic blue...I wouldn't mind knowing the color paint that is needed.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

Being it will be impossible to exact match via rattle can I'll paint the other parts a different color, probably a charcoal grey to match the outside of the vehicle. Do the inside in an eh, close enough blue trim so it all ties in together. Im going to fiberglass the dash pad and make custom door and trunk panels. The somewhat not quiet matched trim accent blues will look closer to matching when they are not bolted to one another.

Id spend a fortune finding all matching blue dash parts, bezel, etc.

I'm trying to mod a 90s taco shift bezel to fit and ditch the crap looking oem arm rest for a new one with cup holders. Fingers crossed I can find one that fits without making it myself.