Mine on my rack have been in over a year and are fine. The front end remains tight. The bushings that came out with the bad rack were not in bad shape. I replaced my rack because it was leaking all over the driveway.
SuperPro Polyurethane Bushings For LC 100 Series (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Northeaster Runner
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5-1/2 years since installing the new rack and Super-Pro bushings: Zero regrets. Good investment IMO.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
I'm two years in. Visually, the rack doesn't move a bit when turning the wheel when stopped. I now have some slack and thunking which I'm sure are from the OEM rack that has 226K miles on it slowly calling it quits. In other words, I probably should have put the bushings on a new rack, instead of putting a terminal rack on poly-life-support. But still, they're a win...
The distributor page has a zillion dealers near me, but the first few I emailed are unresponsive.
Where's the best place to get a pair for my 07?
Where's the best place to get a pair for my 07?
Has anyone replaced the rear panhard with superpro? I replaced 4 rear axle arms with new OEM arms awhile ago.
Also curious if anyone has installed the drivers diff mount with superpro? I replaced that entire OEM arm, but I think superpro is ideal for that particular bushing load as rubber will eventually sag.
I did the same. Peace of mind, not good to have a wobbly rack for any reason.
Mine have only been on for a week. Replaced the steering rack bushings and both sway arm bushings, 7 kits needed for all. It may feel a little more road bumps but on or first 4x4 trip yesterday the little woman said my cruiser doesn't feel "wobbly" anymore. It handled the curves at speed very well. Keep in mind I did a complete IFS rebuild at the same time so everything is new down there. Ordered my bushings from Figs Engineering in Denver, Mike was great, little discount for 5 or more kits.
Bump, anyone address the rear panhard bushings without buying a new OEM?
I replaced my rear pan-hard with a Slee adjustable and I like it a lot but it was probably overkill in my case.
On removal I found the stock bushings to be very hard material and not as much slop as I expected. (guessing it's the original bar at 220,000 miles) At the same time, my primary 4-links were shot out and way overdue for replacment. I would pull it and evaluate the need for replacement bushings first, they may be OK.
On removal I found the stock bushings to be very hard material and not as much slop as I expected. (guessing it's the original bar at 220,000 miles) At the same time, my primary 4-links were shot out and way overdue for replacment. I would pull it and evaluate the need for replacement bushings first, they may be OK.
@AimCOtaco, I just picked up a set of poly steering bushing from Slee. I'm unclear onto which bushing and where to put the included package of lube. Can you please help me out?
You have a PM...
I wanna bump this and ask if you felt a lot of difference?
I’m wanting to either replace all the bushings in my rear or do all five arms (new).
I don’t mind removing each one by one and pounding out factory rubber bushings if the poly will replace them.
Now spending more cheddar would make it a little easier though, just R&R each arm on by one.
Just finished mine today. This thread and a couple of others helped A LOT. Here are the other two good threads I used:
Steering Rack Bushing Replacement
Replace steering rack bushings question
I also used the 6" bolt method found here:
However, I did have a slightly different experience from others so I figured I would post a few things I learned on my install in case it helps someone else. On the driver's side, getting the 2 lower hats in was a piece of cake. Most people then said that they inserted the inner metal sleeve, then pressed in the top hat last. For me, once the inner metal sleeve was in place, I COULD NOT for the life of me get the top hat to press in place even with the above mentioned bolt method. As many times as I tried to crank the bolt down straight, the top hat would just flex and deform. As soon as I backed the bolt off the top hat would just pop right back out.
Running out of options, I figured I would give it a try to put the top hats in first, then press the inner metal sleeve in last. Lo and behold it worked! Even in the back, I had just enough room below the oil pan for the bolt to engage the nut. I had saved the driver's side rear for last knowing it was going to be the hardest, and it actually went the fastest because of all of the the trial and error I experienced with the driver's side front. Whole project start to finish was maybe 4 hrs, working slowly, including removing/reinstalling my Dissent skids. If I had to do it all over again with what I've learned, I feel like I could probably do it in about 2 hrs.
All said, I feel like this is one of those jobs that no amount of advice or advance preparation will make it go perfectly smooth. You just have to get in there, get your hands dirty, and eventually you will figure it out.
Pressing out old bushings:
Pressing in the metal sleeve for the driver's side rear. 6" bolt with nut on top (the metal sleeve is narrow so I didn't use a washer on top). Was able to crank it down from the bottom without a wrench holding the top. Worked like a charm on the first attempt:
Steering Rack Bushing Replacement
Replace steering rack bushings question
I also used the 6" bolt method found here:
However, I did have a slightly different experience from others so I figured I would post a few things I learned on my install in case it helps someone else. On the driver's side, getting the 2 lower hats in was a piece of cake. Most people then said that they inserted the inner metal sleeve, then pressed in the top hat last. For me, once the inner metal sleeve was in place, I COULD NOT for the life of me get the top hat to press in place even with the above mentioned bolt method. As many times as I tried to crank the bolt down straight, the top hat would just flex and deform. As soon as I backed the bolt off the top hat would just pop right back out.
Running out of options, I figured I would give it a try to put the top hats in first, then press the inner metal sleeve in last. Lo and behold it worked! Even in the back, I had just enough room below the oil pan for the bolt to engage the nut. I had saved the driver's side rear for last knowing it was going to be the hardest, and it actually went the fastest because of all of the the trial and error I experienced with the driver's side front. Whole project start to finish was maybe 4 hrs, working slowly, including removing/reinstalling my Dissent skids. If I had to do it all over again with what I've learned, I feel like I could probably do it in about 2 hrs.
All said, I feel like this is one of those jobs that no amount of advice or advance preparation will make it go perfectly smooth. You just have to get in there, get your hands dirty, and eventually you will figure it out.
Pressing out old bushings:
Pressing in the metal sleeve for the driver's side rear. 6" bolt with nut on top (the metal sleeve is narrow so I didn't use a washer on top). Was able to crank it down from the bottom without a wrench holding the top. Worked like a charm on the first attempt:
Just did this on Monday, original was completely shot at 212k miles. It eliminated 95% of the drive line thunk my truck had and what remains is probably just slack in the shaft/splines/u-joints.
Check back with me in a few years I suppose and i'll let you know how they're holding up.
I also have the complete SuperPro panhard rod and rear control arm kit and plan on doing it this coming weekend.
Did the SuperPro rear anti-sway bar this evening after I got off work. Used their extended links and hardware.
old stuff was shot @ 212k miles, especially the bushing in the end of the bar, it was beyond loose...
old stuff was shot @ 212k miles, especially the bushing in the end of the bar, it was beyond loose...
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These steps worked perfectly for me.Thanks for the tips! Got this done yesterday on my 2000,. and it wasn't nearly as bad as I was thinking. Actually, just a little tedious, but certainly no more difficult than installing a lift, etc. Couple of additional notes to add to the above...
The results? So far, so good. No more wander on the freeway, and less road chatter than I thought the poly might transmit. Honestly though, I'm not sure my rack has much longer to go anyway. I have some leaks, and it has 205K on it. If/when the time comes shortly to replace it, I'll DEFINITELY go with the poly bushings from the get go.
- Unbolt the PS side first, and redo it last, for ease of wiggling the rack around.
- Once the hardware is removed from the PS, use a hacksaw blade to cut through the lower lip of the rubber bushing. No need to cut it all off, just helps to have about 1/3 of it somewhat mangled to ease in removal
- It helps to understand that the current rubber bushings are not fused to the rack or anything, in fact, they seem to be designed more for isolation than for placement. Of the surface of the cylinder of the rubber bushing, very little actually touches the metal tube of the rack. The cylinder itself is undersized, and there are raised "pads" around the cylinder that wedge it in.
- To remove the rubber bushings, I did a little work with a hacksaw as mentioned above, then wiggled the rack out of position by about 1/16"-1/8". That allowed a punch to be inserted through the cross member from the bottom, and it would contact the metal sleeve in the rubber bushing (sinde it was slightly out of alignment). I could then hammer the bushing up and out. Both bushings came out fairly easy this way.
- I inserted the poly bushings in a slightly different order than you did. Like you, I slipped the bottom ones in from underneath and used the stock bolt, washer and nut to pull the rack down on top of it and seat it in..
- I then inserted the metal sleeve in from the top through the bottom bushing only. This can be done on both the front and rear mounting hole.
- I then put the upper bushing on. Depending on how strong your fingers are, you may have to use your wire/allen key trick, or if you use the stock bolt and washer you "might" get one thread of the bolt to show above the washer. In this case, if you flip the nut over, the threads are closer (inside the nut) and will likely grab. You can then use the bolt to pull down the upper half of the bushing enough to flip the nut over to the correct orientation.
- I found a 19mm crow's foot socket with a 6" extension to be extremely useful for holding the top nut. Space is at a premium up there. I don't have a 19mm flex head, but suspect that you wouldn't be able to use it anyway. For sure not on the rear mount, maybe on the front.
- Don't ask me how long it took. I am seriously the world's slowest mechanic. I'll sit and have a Dr. Pepper while I contemplate putting the skid plate back on, etc. I'd imagine if you were determined, and had all the tools, you could do this in less than 2 hours, easy.
I did have a curious event happen after doing this, and that was an unexpected activation of VSC on a freeway interchange. On a tight, 180 degree left turn the PS front brake activated.I also washed the truck immediately before that, and found my windshield leak (PS top window, so guess where it drains? onto the ECU area). I've also put on Fox shocks, and new rear sway bar bushings (and extended links from MAF). So lots of suspension changes and possible water entry to the ECU. I came home, did a zero point calibration of the yaw sensor, deceleration sensor calibration, inflated the tires, and headed back out to see if I could get it to happen again in the same spot. It did it one more time, but then not on the next three runs. Not sure if there is any "learning" that goes on regarding steering sensor input going from a stupidly sloppy rack to a tight one? Couldn't find anything about "calibrating" the steering sensor. Will definitely keep an eye on this.
Anyway, thanks to AimCotaco for making this a job I was willing to tackle. It does drive SO much better.
As to the rack/bushing design, what were they thinking???
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@NB100LC You ever do the rear arms? With all poly?
I’m really curious how it went!
I have the SuperPro full sway bar stuff F&R and extended links but really want the rear arms stuff, just not sure I want a project like that!
I don’t have a press, but just a Milwaukee 1/2 cordless and a bunch of sockets!
I’m really curious how it went!
I have the SuperPro full sway bar stuff F&R and extended links but really want the rear arms stuff, just not sure I want a project like that!
I don’t have a press, but just a Milwaukee 1/2 cordless and a bunch of sockets!
w
where did you get all these? trying to pick some up myself. thanks!
