SuperPro Polyurethane Bushings For LC 100 Series (1 Viewer)

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Yorktown Heights NY
We have been memebers of this forum for few years now. I would like to bring it to your attention the different bushings we carry for the Toyota 100 series.
Just a little background on SuperPro. SuperPro polyurethane bushings are made in Australia and are being distributed in the USA by Outback Technologies USA located in NY. Exported to over 40 countries worldwide and backed up be 30 years of automotive industry experianceand full time R & D team, SuperPro is a leading name in the polyurethane bushings aftermarket.
The SuperPro bushing is made of polyurethane elastomer, a uiniquely blend, creating a durable material with the best features of rubber and plastic. The SuperPro bushings IS NOT affected by petrochemicals, water or extream weather conditions giving a "new car feel" on or off road.
SuperPro's bushings provide suspension solutions for range of applications to give: constant steering geometry, better traction control, more responsive steering, alignment correction stability and better off and on road stability and control.

TOYOTA Model: Landcruiser Series: 100 Series IFS -Independent Front Suspension, 6/1998 - 2006
FRONT
-Sway Bar Mount To Chassis Bushing - SPF1155-_ _K 23,25,26,29mm available
-Sway Bar End Link Bushing - SPF2755SK
-Sway Bar Link Lower Bushing SPF2147K
-Shock Absorber Lower Bushing - SPF1575K Original shocks only, Replaces 90903-89016
-Shock Absorber Upper Bushing - SPF2350K Original shocks only, Replaces 90540-17006
-Steering Rack & Pinion Mount Bush - Power Steering SPF2987K Only suited to vehicles manufactured after 9/2002
-Steering Rack & Pinion Mount Bushing SPF2470K LHS & RHS, Only fits vehicles up to 08/2002
-Control Arm Upper-Inner Kit SPF2142K Replaces original part number 48632-60010

REAR
-Trailing Arm Lower Bushing SPF2460K 14mm Bolt
-Trailing Arm Upper Bushing SPF2461K 14mm Bolt
-Shock Absorber Lower Bushing SPF2352K Original shocks only, Replaces 90385-19010
-Sway Bar End Link Bushing SPF0280K
-Sway Bar Link Upper Bushing SPF0903-4K
-Sway Bar Mount Bushing SPF1319-_ _K 21,22,23,24,25,27& 31.75mm available
-Panhard Rod Bushing SPF2464K 14mm
-Coil Spring Spacer Bushing SPF1724__K 10, 15, 20, 30mm available

BUSHING KITS
Trailing Arm & Panhard Rod Kit KIT097K Rear kit, SPF2464 x 1, SPF2460K x 2, SPF2461K x 2
FEEL FREE TO CONTACT US FOR MORE INFORMATION
HAPPY HOLIDAYS
OBT USA SALES TEAM
 

jonharis

Adventure Imports
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FYI OBT's website still needs work. I ordered and received a set of these:
SPF2470K Steering Rack & Pinion Mount Bushing

The description states that it fits 3 different model year ranges for applicability.

SPF2470K - Steering Rack & Pinion Mount Bushing. Kit Contents: 5 Bushings,2 Inner Tubes. Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series IFS 6/1998-2006 LHS & RHS, and Lexus LX470 5/1998-2004 Only fits vehicles up to 08/2002. Professional Installation Required.

Unfortunately not all of us are careful (read me) in reading all of the description and doing the research. I saw "2006" and immediately pressed order, I know others have done the same.

Ended up ordering these:
SPF2987K - Steering Rack & Pinion Mount Bush - Power Steering

Installed in conjunction with a new rack and working great. Steering feels as good or better than ever! Very responsive and tight.


So:
For 1998-8/2002: SPF2470K Steering Rack & Pinion Mount Bushing
After 9/2002: SPF2987K - Steering Rack & Pinion Mount Bush - Power Steering


Other potential errors. Many products give a year range of 1998-2004 such as SPF0280K -Sway Bar End Link However I'm pretty sure in most applications the 2005 MY is identical to the 2004 MY. I may be wrong with these specific parts but it's something worth verifying.
 
Joined
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420
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SO Oregon
Ya, I remember buying a set of these from you guys last year for my upper links. They didn't fit and when I contacted OBT to resolve the issue you guys kept blowing me off in hopes that I'd lose interest and give up. How's that sales tactic working out these days?
 

jonharis

Adventure Imports
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Jan 24, 2010
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Western Colorado
Ya, I remember buying a set of these from you guys last year for my upper links. They didn't fit and when I contacted OBT to resolve the issue you guys kept blowing me off in hopes that I'd lose interest and give up. How's that sales tactic working out these days?

I'll clarify my experience. I revised a prompt response and saw my replacement parts quickly (considering it was in the middle if the super storm) enough. Overall the replacement went well, the worst part was having to wait another week. I'm glad I didn't have the rack torn apart before we realized what was wrong. My opinion very well could have been different. Sorry to hear about your experience.
 
Joined
Apr 25, 2011
Messages
39
Location
Yorktown Heights NY
FYI OBT's website still needs work. I ordered and received a set of these:
SPF2470K Steering Rack & Pinion Mount Bushing

The description states that it fits 3 different model year ranges for applicability.

SPF2470K - Steering Rack & Pinion Mount Bushing. Kit Contents: 5 Bushings,2 Inner Tubes. Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series IFS 6/1998-2006 LHS & RHS, and Lexus LX470 5/1998-2004 Only fits vehicles up to 08/2002. Professional Installation Required.

Unfortunately not all of us are careful (read me) in reading all of the description and doing the research. I saw "2006" and immediately pressed order, I know others have done the same.

Ended up ordering these:
SPF2987K - Steering Rack & Pinion Mount Bush - Power Steering

Installed in conjunction with a new rack and working great. Steering feels as good or better than ever! Very responsive and tight.


So:
For 1998-8/2002: SPF2470K Steering Rack & Pinion Mount Bushing
After 9/2002: SPF2987K - Steering Rack & Pinion Mount Bush - Power Steering


Other potential errors. Many products give a year range of 1998-2004 such as SPF0280K -Sway Bar End Link However I'm pretty sure in most applications the 2005 MY is identical to the 2004 MY. I may be wrong with these specific parts but it's something worth verifying.

Hi,
We addressed that problem on the Web Site and on our ebay store
 

jonharis

Adventure Imports
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Jan 24, 2010
Messages
3,128
Location
Western Colorado
Hi,
We addressed that problem on the Web Site and on our ebay store

Still misleading.
Capture.PNG
Capture.PNG
 

hoser

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x2. Info is not correct. In addition, if for the US consumer, I'd suggest listing by Model Year rather than production date.
 
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Northern california
Consider becoming a supporting vendor and fix up your website and.customer service then watch your sales grow tremendously as many of us are royal to a good vendor.
 
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Messages
39
Location
Yorktown Heights NY

TrekboxX

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El Dorado Hills, CA
I agree that the site is still misleading. My 100 was built in early 2003 and SPF0280K is the wrong kit for it. Jon is right. SPF2987K is the right one for mine, at least. There was a fairly recent thread that showed this same confusion and also confusion on whether the rack needed to be removed for install.
 
Joined
Apr 25, 2011
Messages
39
Location
Yorktown Heights NY
I agree that the site is still misleading. My 100 was built in early 2003 and SPF0280K is the wrong kit for it. Jon is right. SPF2987K is the right one for mine, at least. There was a fairly recent thread that showed this same confusion and also confusion on whether the rack needed to be removed for install.

I'll bring up your comments and concerns about the SPF0280K to SuperPro.
 

AimCOtaco

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I just installed the SuperPro set for the 1999 steering rack this weekend.

Only took about 2 hours, I was expecting worse but with a seleciton of 19mm tools and some crativity it really was not too bad. The result is well worth it. Much better feel and response. My alignment shop did not want to set my toe until I fixed the sloppy rack. This will do the trick nicely.

OBT was easy to work with and fast, he got me both the rear sway bar mounts and the steering rack kit in under a week. If the descriptions are still causing confusion, I recommend just sending OBT and e-mail and they will make sure you get the right rack kit for your production date. Worked out nicely for me anyway.
 

re_guderian

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I just installed the SuperPro set for the 1999 steering rack this weekend.

Only took about 2 hours, I was expecting worse but with a seleciton of 19mm tools and some crativity it really was not too bad. The result is well worth it. Much better feel and response. My alignment shop did not want to set my toe until I fixed the sloppy rack. This will do the trick nicely.

OBT was easy to work with and fast, he got me both the rear sway bar mounts and the steering rack kit in under a week. If the descriptions are still causing confusion, I recommend just sending OBT and e-mail and they will make sure you get the right rack kit for your production date. Worked out nicely for me anyway.

Tips and tricks for doing this?
 

AimCOtaco

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A little hard to explain but generally the large mount is a piece of cake and the small ones are the tough ones.
It's not too awful to get the old ones out and it's easy to get the urethane halves in the bottom side of the rack by just slipping them under the rack and into position and then pulling down on the rack.

The hard part for me was inserting the bushing halves from the top and then even harder is getting the steel liners in there. On the front one I used the stock hardware to pull the upper half and then the sleeve into place.
On the rear one the oil pan was in the way and while I could use the same method to pull in the urethane, the sleeve was too tall when sitting atop the bushing to even go into position due to the oil pan. I could get the liner close but could not have it standing squarely on top of the bushing stack because of the pan. There was no way fingers were getting it done and I pondered disconnecting the left motor mount and lifting the engine an inch or so but our of shear laziness found another solution. My alternate method was to fish a loop of heavy wire up thorugh the crossmember, bushing, and sleeve and then I slipped a junk allen key through the loop of wire on top of the bushing. Next I used a vice grip on the ends of the wire to apply a lot of downward force on the sleeve while using a small pry bar to manipulate the sleeve side to side until I got lucky and it found it's way home. A picture would go a long way here but you get the idea, also makes more sense after you try it.

Remember mine is a 1999 and the later kit is a bit different, don't know 'bout that one so YMMV.

Happy Cruisin!
 

re_guderian

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A little hard to explain but generally the large mount is a piece of cake and the small ones are the tough ones.
It's not too awful to get the old ones out and it's easy to get the urethane halves in the bottom side of the rack by just slipping them under the rack and into position and then pulling down on the rack.

The hard part for me was inserting the bushing halves from the top and then even harder is getting the steel liners in there. On the front one I used the stock hardware to pull the upper half and then the sleeve into place.
On the rear one the oil pan was in the way and while I could use the same method to pull in the urethane, the sleeve was too tall when sitting atop the bushing to even go into position due to the oil pan. I could get the liner close but could not have it standing squarely on top of the bushing stack because of the pan. There was no way fingers were getting it done and I pondered disconnecting the left motor mount and lifting the engine an inch or so but our of shear laziness found another solution. My alternate method was to fish a loop of heavy wire up thorugh the crossmember, bushing, and sleeve and then I slipped a junk allen key through the loop of wire on top of the bushing. Next I used a vice grip on the ends of the wire to apply a lot of downward force on the sleeve while using a small pry bar to manipulate the sleeve side to side until I got lucky and it found it's way home. A picture would go a long way here but you get the idea, also makes more sense after you try it.

Remember mine is a 1999 and the later kit is a bit different, don't know 'bout that one so YMMV.

Happy Cruisin!

Thanks for the tips! Got this done yesterday on my 2000,. and it wasn't nearly as bad as I was thinking. Actually, just a little tedious, but certainly no more difficult than installing a lift, etc. Couple of additional notes to add to the above...

  • Unbolt the PS side first, and redo it last, for ease of wiggling the rack around.
  • Once the hardware is removed from the PS, use a hacksaw blade to cut through the lower lip of the rubber bushing. No need to cut it all off, just helps to have about 1/3 of it somewhat mangled to ease in removal
  • It helps to understand that the current rubber bushings are not fused to the rack or anything, in fact, they seem to be designed more for isolation than for placement. Of the surface of the cylinder of the rubber bushing, very little actually touches the metal tube of the rack. The cylinder itself is undersized, and there are raised "pads" around the cylinder that wedge it in.
  • To remove the rubber bushings, I did a little work with a hacksaw as mentioned above, then wiggled the rack out of position by about 1/16"-1/8". That allowed a punch to be inserted through the cross member from the bottom, and it would contact the metal sleeve in the rubber bushing (sinde it was slightly out of alignment). I could then hammer the bushing up and out. Both bushings came out fairly easy this way.
  • I inserted the poly bushings in a slightly different order than you did. Like you, I slipped the bottom ones in from underneath and used the stock bolt, washer and nut to pull the rack down on top of it and seat it in..
  • I then inserted the metal sleeve in from the top through the bottom bushing only. This can be done on both the front and rear mounting hole.
  • I then put the upper bushing on. Depending on how strong your fingers are, you may have to use your wire/allen key trick, or if you use the stock bolt and washer you "might" get one thread of the bolt to show above the washer. In this case, if you flip the nut over, the threads are closer (inside the nut) and will likely grab. You can then use the bolt to pull down the upper half of the bushing enough to flip the nut over to the correct orientation.
  • I found a 19mm crow's foot socket with a 6" extension to be extremely useful for holding the top nut. Space is at a premium up there. I don't have a 19mm flex head, but suspect that you wouldn't be able to use it anyway. For sure not on the rear mount, maybe on the front.
  • Don't ask me how long it took. I am seriously the world's slowest mechanic. I'll sit and have a Dr. Pepper while I contemplate putting the skid plate back on, etc. I'd imagine if you were determined, and had all the tools, you could do this in less than 2 hours, easy.
The results? So far, so good. No more wander on the freeway, and less road chatter than I thought the poly might transmit. Honestly though, I'm not sure my rack has much longer to go anyway. I have some leaks, and it has 205K on it. If/when the time comes shortly to replace it, I'll DEFINITELY go with the poly bushings from the get go.

I did have a curious event happen after doing this, and that was an unexpected activation of VSC on a freeway interchange. On a tight, 180 degree left turn the PS front brake activated. :hmm: I also washed the truck immediately before that, and found my windshield leak (PS top window, so guess where it drains? onto the ECU area). I've also put on Fox shocks, and new rear sway bar bushings (and extended links from MAF). So lots of suspension changes and possible water entry to the ECU. I came home, did a zero point calibration of the yaw sensor, deceleration sensor calibration, inflated the tires, and headed back out to see if I could get it to happen again in the same spot. It did it one more time, but then not on the next three runs. Not sure if there is any "learning" that goes on regarding steering sensor input going from a stupidly sloppy rack to a tight one? Couldn't find anything about "calibrating" the steering sensor. Will definitely keep an eye on this.

Anyway, thanks to AimCotaco for making this a job I was willing to tackle. It does drive SO much better.

As to the rack/bushing design, what were they thinking???

20130705_123310.jpg


20130705_123409.jpg
 
Last edited:

AutoCraft Aus

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The change over for the rack bushes should be from Aug 2002 buld date as they went to the 2 front bushes on the rack, from one and a "d" bush.

As a Super Pro dealer in another country, I can tell you the data for vehicle application isnt always correct.


We have actually been using a firmer bush for the rack we have had made, as well as for the front and rear of the lower control arm.

These have been part of the overall design of factory ball joint upper arm, with extra caster, and a steering rack brace, to prevent the toe in the 100 will pull with more power, and diff gears and bigger tyres, with longer shocks, and diff drop.

All this has been to stop tyres rubbing, aid tyre wear, and maintain steering geometry while cycling the travel.


Were I to purchase a 100 even without a lift, the Super Pro rack bushes would be my first addition.
 

2000UZJ

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I hate to be the one that asks, but $20 to ship a box of bushings? I'm not a cheap person, I understand making profit, but it can't possibly be $20 to ship a box the size of a tissue container.


I'm in a time crunch for a new rack and this is the only solid US company that carries them. Any other sources known?

Thanks.
 

AimCOtaco

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I couldn't find anyone else with stock in the US but I agree they need some competition. Last time I sent an email to them I never did hear back.

Its easy enough to do later if you need to get a rack in quick. I wouldn't risk a steering pump or an accident over it...
 

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