LS Engine Prep & Info
I figured that I'd start another thread on my LS swap to keep the tech all in one place where it can easily be found for anyone wanting to do a LS swap in the future. There are already some fantastic threads on here on how to do it with some great tech which have been a great resource to me.
I've had my FJ60 for four months now, and it's been a fun project that has been very rewarding - but it didn't feel that rewarding when I was driving it. I bought this thing to be a daily driver and with the 2F it isn't cutting it. With parts availability getting worse and it's sluggish nature I came to the realization it's hard to beat the practicality and reliability of an LS. I’ve never done an LS swap before but to be honest there’s no better way to learn other than just doing it. I’ve received a ton of help from @cruisermatt and @dbbowen's thread has ben a great reference point as well.
Anyways here is my 60 that will be receiving said LS. Plan is to run an H55F with the Mark’s Adapter and 10% OD gears in the transfer case. I had installed 4.11 axles from a 62 when I reversed my SOA and I want to keep the RPM’s down for highway use. The 10% OD gears will get me back to a 3.70 ratio.
Here is my donor engine – a 5.3 L59 out of a 2003 Chevy Tahoe. It’s the same block as an LM7 but is an L59 due to its ability to run on flex fuel as well. The flex fuel injectors are different than the standard Multec injectors – they are known as EV6 injectors and have a slightly different spray pattern. This engine has 159k miles on it, and after running the Carfax on the VIN the donor Tahoe was a one owner car until 2021 and looked to be in good shape prior to the accident.
First things first I needed to get it onto a stand, and I wouldn’t recommend the 1 ton Harbor Freight one for a fully dressed LS. It is worth spending the money on the 2 ton stand with the foldable legs. It’s a really well built stand for the price.
Even though my engine is in pretty good shape I did the rear main cover and seal because I really don't want to have to pull the transmission once it's installed. There is a special tool needed to orient the rear cover properly on the back of the block. You can do it without it, but it's $50 and made installing the rear main seal super easy. The one I bought is called the AlignIt tool sold by SacCityCorvette. I was surprised when the new rear main sat further back on the crankshaft than the original one did, but that is intentional as the new seals are shorter in length to ride on clean portion of the crank.
I also replaced my oil pan with the Chevrolet Performance 19212593 kit. It gives more clearance between the pan and the front axle than the stock pan does. With the galley cover off the inside of the engine looks pretty good.
The stock exhaust manifolds will not clear the frame rails, so I bought the Summit Racing SUM-G9080 manifolds while they were on sale. My engine came with three broken exhaust manifold bolts - this is pretty common on LS engines. Luckily I was able to weld on some nuts and remove them with relative ease. I replaced them with ARP exhaust manifold bolts.
I’m also going to leave the stock temperature sending unit so the ECU can read engine temp and so will my ScanGauge via the OBDII port – but I don’t want a dead gauge on the dash. There’s a plug on the rear of the passenger side head where you can install a sending unit for the stock gauge. I’ll be curious to see how accurate it is compared to what’s coming off of my ScanGauge.
Engine work was inspected by the shop manager - he approves
At this point most of my engine prep is complete – the only things I have left to do is get the wiring harness from BP Automotive, have my ECU flashed and install a drive by cable throttle body. I don’t want to deal with the drive by wire stuff personally, although it isn’t a bad option and is pretty reliable.
Next step is to start removing the original drivetrain...
I've had my FJ60 for four months now, and it's been a fun project that has been very rewarding - but it didn't feel that rewarding when I was driving it. I bought this thing to be a daily driver and with the 2F it isn't cutting it. With parts availability getting worse and it's sluggish nature I came to the realization it's hard to beat the practicality and reliability of an LS. I’ve never done an LS swap before but to be honest there’s no better way to learn other than just doing it. I’ve received a ton of help from @cruisermatt and @dbbowen's thread has ben a great reference point as well.
Anyways here is my 60 that will be receiving said LS. Plan is to run an H55F with the Mark’s Adapter and 10% OD gears in the transfer case. I had installed 4.11 axles from a 62 when I reversed my SOA and I want to keep the RPM’s down for highway use. The 10% OD gears will get me back to a 3.70 ratio.
Here is my donor engine – a 5.3 L59 out of a 2003 Chevy Tahoe. It’s the same block as an LM7 but is an L59 due to its ability to run on flex fuel as well. The flex fuel injectors are different than the standard Multec injectors – they are known as EV6 injectors and have a slightly different spray pattern. This engine has 159k miles on it, and after running the Carfax on the VIN the donor Tahoe was a one owner car until 2021 and looked to be in good shape prior to the accident.
First things first I needed to get it onto a stand, and I wouldn’t recommend the 1 ton Harbor Freight one for a fully dressed LS. It is worth spending the money on the 2 ton stand with the foldable legs. It’s a really well built stand for the price.
Even though my engine is in pretty good shape I did the rear main cover and seal because I really don't want to have to pull the transmission once it's installed. There is a special tool needed to orient the rear cover properly on the back of the block. You can do it without it, but it's $50 and made installing the rear main seal super easy. The one I bought is called the AlignIt tool sold by SacCityCorvette. I was surprised when the new rear main sat further back on the crankshaft than the original one did, but that is intentional as the new seals are shorter in length to ride on clean portion of the crank.
I also replaced my oil pan with the Chevrolet Performance 19212593 kit. It gives more clearance between the pan and the front axle than the stock pan does. With the galley cover off the inside of the engine looks pretty good.
The stock exhaust manifolds will not clear the frame rails, so I bought the Summit Racing SUM-G9080 manifolds while they were on sale. My engine came with three broken exhaust manifold bolts - this is pretty common on LS engines. Luckily I was able to weld on some nuts and remove them with relative ease. I replaced them with ARP exhaust manifold bolts.
I’m also going to leave the stock temperature sending unit so the ECU can read engine temp and so will my ScanGauge via the OBDII port – but I don’t want a dead gauge on the dash. There’s a plug on the rear of the passenger side head where you can install a sending unit for the stock gauge. I’ll be curious to see how accurate it is compared to what’s coming off of my ScanGauge.
Engine work was inspected by the shop manager - he approves
At this point most of my engine prep is complete – the only things I have left to do is get the wiring harness from BP Automotive, have my ECU flashed and install a drive by cable throttle body. I don’t want to deal with the drive by wire stuff personally, although it isn’t a bad option and is pretty reliable.
Next step is to start removing the original drivetrain...
