Stripped threads on transfer filler hole (12 Viewers)

[GLTHFJ60]

You shouldn't replace just half of the case. They're machined from the factory as a set, so if you replace the rear half, you need to replace the front half to match.

@Freewheel 's method of repair is ideal. There is not enough material there to use a helicoil or other thread repair method.

IMHO, I'd take apart the rear half of the case (can be done without disassembling the entire thing) and have it welded/retapped by a machine shop.

 

[mattressking]

When I got my first 60 the T'case had a cork in the fill hole....

Standard practice is to tap for a 1/2" drain plug, if you don't want to use an insert.

Seriously? Please tell me wine cork

 

[Spike Strip]

Seriously? Please tell me wine cork

LOL! - No, it was some kind of larger bung cork, like for a Vintage thermos. It had been shaved down to fit, then twisted in. And surprisingly, it didn't leak. No idea how long it had been in there, but by the rattyness of it, a long time. Didn't see it until I removed the skid.

@Freewheel There is not enough material there to use a helicoil or other thread repair method.

Plenty of material there: I've installed a couple 'Time Cert' now and they're perfect. Steel, so no more stripping.


Land Cruiser transfer case drain plug repair | OlympiaFJ60

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That's impressive. There's only maybe two threads engagement in the material for about half of that hole. Maybe you get more when you drill it out for the helicoil

I stand corrected.

 

[Spike Strip]

One side is very thin, the other has a bit of meat on it... When installing the insert a healthy dollop of red loctite and it's been about 8 years now and so far so good ... Unfortunately, my rebuilt case now leaks from other places... I HATE A LEAKER!

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

^^^time-sert. the only easy way to really fix it right. still requires disassembly. There was a vendor who was offering the service if you shipped the case half. Can't remember who it was... @kevinmrowland maybe...Maybe @reevesci at Trail Tailor picked up that torch too???

 

[Spike Strip]

It was Olympia FJ60 (the write-up link I posted). Not sure if he still does it, although anyone with a drill press and the timesert kit should be able to do it.

@OlympiaFJ60 ?

 

[MANUCHAO]

Edit: Repost

 

[cruisermatt]

You shouldn't replace just half of the case. They're machined from the factory as a set, so if you replace the rear half, you need to replace the front half to match.

I don't think that's true, or if it is I don't think it matters. The reason I think this is because Georg will machine the deep/rear case half for 4:1 low gears and do a "case half exchange" if a customer chooses. Meaning mismatched halfs.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I have heard the same^^^

 

[Aloha Jen]

Thanks for all the continued advice, I am learning a lot about this subject. Seems like I have a few different options to fix this temporarily and more long term.

If you haven't rebuilt the TC along with the rest of the rig.. this would be a good time/ reason to do so....
I have a half housing (smaller idler shaft) of a TC with perfect treads that you can have...

View attachment 1479289 View attachment 1479290

With that said..i ran the TC with a messed up fill plug for years... without any issues...

I may have an interest in this. I will PM you to discuss some details, thanks!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I don't think that's true, or if it is I don't think it matters. The reason I think this is because Georg will machine the deep/rear case half for 4:1 low gears and do a "case half exchange" if a customer chooses. Meaning mismatched halfs.

It might not make a significant difference, but it is true that they're machined as a pair/set.

Think about it, they're both cast pieces, and castings have to be machined down to be cleaned up. Every casting is close, but not necessarily identical to eachother. The only thing that sets the distance between the cases for the idler shaft thrust washers are the cases themselves. If you have a few thousandths tolerance in the casting, with a front half case that's on the thin end of that tolerance, and a rear half case that's on the thin side as well, then you would have too much end play, causing excessive wear on the thrust washers. This is also why you should ALWAYS use the Toyota OEM gaskets when assembling a split case, NOT RTV.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

worm can...the way I read it, you are both correct...they are machined as a set...they CAN and have been and will be swip swapped without too much fuss...I suppose in a perfect storm, a guy(or girl) could end up with the worst case mis-matched pair causing the need for more shims...

 

[Spike Strip]

If you use mismatched halves, then you have to measure and reset preload, usually requiring a new shim combination. That's the only issue. At least that's what Marv Spector told me years ago.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

If you use mismatched halves, then you have to measure and reset preload, usually requiring a new shim combination. That's the only issue. At least that's what Marv Spector told me years ago.

That's not entirely accurate, because the only shaft that has an adjustable preload is the transfercase output shaft.

Like I said, it may not make that much of a difference, but they are machined as a set.

 

[Spike Strip]

The 34mm case I'm running now is a mismatched pair. I went on the advice Marv gave me and it has worked fine, except for the recent leaks, but I think that's because I just used aftermarket gaskets and no RTV ... Admittedly, though, the case does not have a lot of miles on it.

But I understand what you're saying about machining the halves as a set, for idler shaft, etc... Makes sense and prolly best to have matched pair, if possible. Maybe I just got lucky and the tolerances between the two I used were not far apart. Dunno.

 

[2fpower]

see if this thread helps.

I have the tool available to loan.

Transfer case plug thread issue - what options?

 

[FJ60Seth]

Try cleaning up threads on the TC with the correct size tap, then install a new plug.

 

[White Stripe]

One time I had this happen to a cylinder head bolt. You could band aid it, but taking out the t-case is really not as much work as it seems. You would not be rebuilding it, just taking it apart and putting it together with new seals and gaskets. The cruiser split cases rarely need new bearings or shafts as long as they aren't abused too bad. Just lay all the piece out in order and put back together in order. Have the torque specs for the critical pieces and tighten with a torque wrench. I would just use a time sert or a helicoil. I typically use heli coil personally. Once the case is off, a helicoil coil only takes about 20 minutes to install. Put red loctite on the new tapped threads b4 you thread in the helicoil. Put everything back together and give the loctite 24 hours to cure b4 filling with gear oil. Unfortunately these are the headaches you go through with owning a old cruiser. While it's kind of a punch in the gut after doing so much work, it's really not bad.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

That's not entirely accurate, because the only shaft that has an adjustable preload is the transfercase output shaft.

Like I said, it may not make that much of a difference, but they are machined as a set.

not sure about current supply, but the idler thrust washers used to be available in different thicknesses to fix this issue...but YES, I believe the cases are machined as a matched set...