Stevo's Unofficial Build Thread, FJ60 + FJ62 + FJ80 Axle = FJ68? (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

The Frame

I just realized I never posted pictures of the FJ62 frame as I got it. So much better than my current frame.
0225111809a.jpg
0225111908.jpg
0303112140a.jpg
 
Subscribed. :D


The blue is killing me though :/
 
Also a quick question does anyone know if the front fj60 disc brake calipers will fit the rear rotors of a fj80?

Why? Use the FZJ80 calipers.

Either way, I think the front 60 calipers are larger but I don't know for sure.
 
Heckraiser Subscribed. :D


The blue is killing me though :/
Sorry man, that the color the springs are going to stay. Maybe not the grille, but all of the springs will be blue.

Also I was wondering because the FZJ80 axle I'm getting is sans calipers, and I will have my fj62 front calipers laying around when I upgrade to the 4runner calipers. By the way I got these babies from the local pic and pull. $10 per caliper, and $10 for the MC
0327111524.jpg
0327111525.jpg
0327111525a.jpg
 
I guess that what I will have to do. I'm going to go pick up my axle on Saturday so I guess I will post up the results. If I have the time to pull the calipers off of the 62 front axle.
 
Yeah the shop I have it in is actually a greenhouse business, the shop part of the warehouse is used for maintainance on all of the equipment/my truck.:)

The only problem is I have to keep my truck running/drivable that way during the day if they need to move it they can.

Once their busy season is over they said I could have a section of the barn to keep the truck in. So thats when I plan on the body swap onto the new frame, and finish the SOA conversion.

Oh and for all those blacked out grille fans.
0401112112.jpg
 
Max tire size for stock birfs.

So I was wondering, with the addition of the SOA and whatnot I am probably going to stick with some 35" tires for a while. I know that with the 4:11's in the axles this will give me a nice rubber overdrive.

For the sake of performance though I was thinking about getting some lockers for the front and rear axles. Probably just some lunchbox lockers for now. But that brings me to my question.

How well do the stock front axle shafts and birfs hold up locked with 35" tires? Do they last? Or should I just bite the bullet and buy some longfields?
 
So I was wondering, with the addition of the SOA and whatnot I am probably going to stick with some 35" tires for a while. I know that with the 4:11's in the axles this will give me a nice rubber overdrive.

For the sake of performance though I was thinking about getting some lockers for the front and rear axles. Probably just some lunchbox lockers for now. But that brings me to my question.

How well do the stock front axle shafts and birfs hold up locked with 35" tires? Do they last? Or should I just bite the bullet and buy some longfields?

Honestly this comes down to driving style. When I first built my rig I ran for an entire year without breaking anything, then this past summer I blew up three birfields and a rear axle shaft within 24 hours. That was with a front auto locker, albeit with no rear locker. The next event I broke a front leaf spring right at the shackle's eye.

Build it to the maximum strength that your budget will allow. You will be able to run the stock gear for a while if you're light on the skinny pedal and don't bounce the front end. Eventually you will find yourself upgrading to longs. Your rear FF axle will be OK for a long while if you keep the hub studs tight.
 
Game Plan

So far everything I can manage is getting beefed up.

Since I am staying with the 2F until I find the right 6BT, I was thinking of doing two stages of buildup.

The stage I involves the SOA w 35" tires and new rims, body swap, saginaw conversion, the FZJ80 axle and possibly some lockers, plus all the hassles associated with the things mentioned.

Wheel that for a while. Then stage II Would involve, the 6BT + NV4500, longs, 37" tires, poly rears, maybe some ARB's or detroits, and possibly hydro assist if its needed.

All of this could change depending on how much money I can earn on the side doing side jobs and whatnot.
 
If I were you I'd run an Aussie or a Lockright in the rear FZJ80 axle from Stage I

Keep it in stage two, but add a Selectable ARB up front.

That will save some money. I made it up some stuff I couldn't believe with only a rear locker.

Plus its so easy to put one in the rear of a LC axle. Just take off the inspection cover and go.
 
Yeah, that one of the scenarios I have been thinking of. its a little bit harder than pulling the inspection cover on the FF fzj80 axle though, because there is no inspection cover. But still, the axle will be on a bench getting cleaned up/strengthened before it is hung on the rolling chassis. There is really no reason for me not to throw a locker in it then.

Plus by leaving the front open, there is much less of a chance of me breaking a birf or shaft.

Its probably what I will end up doing. I love having all the input. Keep it coming for the rest of the build and I should have a great truck.
 
Yeah, that one of the scenarios I have been thinking of. its a little bit harder than pulling the inspection cover on the FF fzj80 axle though, because there is no inspection cover. But still, the axle will be on a bench getting cleaned up/strengthened before it is hung on the rolling chassis. There is really no reason for me not to throw a locker in it then.

Plus by leaving the front open, there is much less of a chance of me breaking a birf or shaft.

Its probably what I will end up doing. I love having all the input. Keep it coming for the rest of the build and I should have a great truck.

Drive a truck with an autolocker in the rear. I had one in the rear of my 60 and didn't like how it drove as realized that I typically accelerate through corners. That said I drove and rode in an 80 with the same locker and didn't even notice it. I removed it and have a e-locker in there now which I love much more.
 
Not sure if there is anyone around me with a 60 and an autolocked rear. The e-locker would be nice, but reading up on it, there was the issue with shafts twisting and getting caught in the locking mechanism. With the 6BT, there will be plenty of torque on tap. It would be super lame if I had to cut up my rear axle housing.

Maybe if I could find one cheap...
 
Not sure if there is anyone around me with a 60 and an autolocked rear. The e-locker would be nice, but reading up on it, there was the issue with shafts twisting and getting caught in the locking mechanism. With the 6BT, there will be plenty of torque on tap. It would be super lame if I had to cut up my rear axle housing.

Maybe if I could find one cheap...

Yup, there is that issue for sure. I'm taking that risk, so we'll see how it goes. I figure if I keep it locked all the time on the trail then the part that twist will be after the locking collar and I should be able to get it out. Whatever happens, time will tell.
 
Oh, I thought the problem was from being locked and then the splines twisting inside and getting caught in the locking mechanism itself. Those PP shafts have a ton of twisting potential. I could see how that would happen. I hope it doesn't happen to you though.
 
Oh, I thought the problem was from being locked and then the splines twisting inside and getting caught in the locking mechanism itself. Those PP shafts have a ton of twisting potential. I could see how that would happen. I hope it doesn't happen to you though.

I thought about that and it doesn't make sense. When it's locked, you are fixing the shaft between the locking collar and side gear on the locking side, so the space inbetween shouldn't twist independently of what is engaged by the side gear and locking collar unless something breaks. I should read up on it again but if you think about it that way, how can the shaft twist between two static spline engagements?
 
Yeah, I know I thought about that too, but I'm pretty sure that's what happens. If you think about the rear ff shaft, and look at this picture, there really isn't anything on it that could get caught other than the splines, so they would have to twist in the locking mechanism itself. And once locked in the twisted position they would be very difficult to remove.
fj80-fj40-60-axles1.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom