Stereo FAQ (1 Viewer)

[Grundletaint]

I have an 05 LX with levinson sound. New gremlin in my electronics is that on occasion when I start it up, the amp does not connect to the head unit (is nonresponsive).

The head unit works but no sound comes out and when trying to adjust audio, the speakers are greyed out and here is no graphic for volume adjustment.

It works fine part of the time so I'm not sure if the amp is dying or what the problem here is. It never cuts out while it's operational.

 

[Wilsil]

The head unit is powered through the amp so there might be a loose connection somewhere between the amp and the head unit.

 

[Grundletaint]

In that case wouldn't the HU go out if the amp does?

 

[Wilsil]

True.

 

[Grundletaint]

I've narrowed down the behavior a bit more.

It sometimes won't produce sound when I start the truck (no beeps, no audio, no display response when volume knob is turned. When it's out and I try audio adjustments, the slider for MID is missing and bass/treble are greyed out.

It WILL eventually come on after I've been driving. It's like there's a delay for sound somewhere. The head unit is running fine (CD time indicates this) while the sound is out.

So far, it does not cut out after it starts working.

I pulled the HU and checked all the wires and all seems ok. I don't think the amp is dying anymore but there's something happening I can't comprehend.

 

[Kochman]

Hey guys I have an '05 with factory Nav. Here is a picture of what I am talking about.

I understand that nothing can be done to upgrade the Navigation unit, but would it be possible to replace the lower radio piece with a single din slide out screen alpine unit? I mainly want it for watching movies and being able to stream music from my iPhone. I checked a few places online and there are no radios listed as being compatible. Will a head unit like I am interested in interfere with the Nav system in any way?

 

[DomSmith]

I don't know about replacing the single DIN below but..,

Why not watch movies on the built in NAV screen? Should run through the disc changer in the center console. There's also an aftermarket Bluetooth streaming connector. A little clunky but certainly easier than replacing the lower unit.

 

[Kochman]

Why not watch movies on the built in NAV screen? Should run through the disc changer in the center console. There's also an aftermarket Bluetooth streaming connector. A little clunky but certainly easier than replacing the lower unit.

I have the bluetooth setup for my phone, but I was unaware there is a way to stream music through bluetooth. Any idea where I can find more information on this?

 

[DomSmith]

I think the people are using the VAIS (or similar) aftermarket iPod connector that lets you stream via Bluetooth. I don't think the stock phone setup allows it.

My VAIS iPod connector is the version previous to Bluetooth streaming.

 

[DomSmith]

Here's one discussion point...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/wh...bluetooth-media-streaming-with-iphone.825798/

 

[96crooser]

So am I correct when I say the only option I have is the system that connects between the antenna and the head unit

 

[TheForger]

So replacing the stock radio in a 2000 Land Cruiser with an aftermarket double DIN HU will cause the amp and sub to not work, correct? And the process to fix that is to do what? I keep hearing about rewiring but I'm not clear exactly as to what needs to be done in order for the stock amp and sub to continue to be powered with an aftermarket head unit.

 

[Kochman]

Here's one discussion point...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/wh...bluetooth-media-streaming-with-iphone.825798/

Dom thanks very much for this info. I'll be ordering the VAIS this weekend.

 

[PabloCruise]

Putting together some info for the FAQ.

Here are some links to some helpful sites when it comes to Land Cruiser stereo.



This looks like its for the in dash 6 disc.

Car Audio Wire Diagram Codes Toyota - Factory Car Stereo Repair - Bose Stereo, Speaker / Amplifier Repair

Wire harness to hook up an aftermarket stereo to the factory amp

http://www.audiooutfitter.com/store/TA03B.html


This is for the single cd player

Car Audio Wire Diagram Codes Toyota - Factory Car Stereo Repair - Bose Stereo, Speaker / Amplifier Repair

Wire harness to hook up an aftermarket stereo to the factory amp

MAD TWH-14 Toyota 1992-03 at Onlinecarstereo.com


This is looks like it is for the factory amp

Car Audio Wire Diagram Codes Toyota - Factory Car Stereo Repair - Bose Stereo, Speaker / Amplifier Repair


For a single-din aftermarket deck, you will need a dash pocket to fill in the empty space. Here are a couple that will work.

http://www.audiooutfitter.com/store/88-00-8000.html

http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=ameupk750


I have had good luck buying stereos from www.etonics.com. Cheaper than most. I recommend buying a upper end stereo with lots of equilizer and crossover adjustments. They are worth it. You paid more for a nicer auto. Pay more for the nicer stereo to go in it.


The factory amp is underneath the passenger seat. The door speakers are 6 1/2". Maybe someone else can add the speaker depths and any possible subs that will fit in the factory sub location.

Also, anyone else with any other helpful links?

Thanks to all who contributed here on this thread. Do you mean you have had luck getting stereos from etronics.com?

Audio - Car Audio - Etronics

Just found label on my Nakamichi amp (99LX470):
Max. Power: 40Wx4; 100Wx1. Load impedance: 4 Ohm.

Thank you, this is what I have, so I was wondering about specs to replace amp, if appropriate!

That's what I'm saying unless someone has come out with an adapter recently...even then I would cut it

This is the radio connector in the dash from a 2000 LX470 (USA)

View attachment 597968
View attachment 597968

Thanks @RobRed - I have been looking at your articles:

Replacing Your Audio System: Overview
Stereo Wiring: Land Cruiser / LX 470 (1998-02)

trying to learn all I can. It sounds like my '99 470 w/ Nakamichi has a 22-pin connector that no one makes an adapter for, and a 6" sub.
I think we would get a lot of use from a unit that has CDR/MP3 capability + Nav + BlueTooth + be ready for back up cam and sat radio.
If replacing the amp is really the wisest thing to do while I am touching the head unit, I would love to know if there a really safe bet to go with.
I would like to continue to use the sub in the factory location, so again, if there is a solid replacement piece that has been tried with a specific amp and head unit, I would love to hear recomendations.
Thanks!

 

[Iocaine]

PabloCruise.. We are surfing the same threads!

 

[Iocaine]

This may already be up, but this is how I did a Kenwood Bluetooth HU on my '99 LX470. Thanks to member ClubRSX in the clublexus forms. He did all the work. I just found these pics (below) and copied em... I did choose to use the RCA preamps out of the HU to run into the stock amp. Took my time and spliced "RCA to speaker wire" leads to the corresponding speaker wire amp input leads. (FR-FR+ etc.) Seriously.. This was super simple. I then used his Clarion sheet example as a model (except for the speaker leads) and once again took my time. This was a SUPER SIMPLE job. Just a bit tedious. The improvement is unbelievable the sub is tight and actually kinda bumps? AND now I have handsfree BT in my truck too.. So worth it!

I ordered the American based Chinese fascia and had to backspace the HU about 1 cm with some custom spacers and 30mm mounting screws. Fits like a glove.

I also pulled apart the useless ash tray and ran the USB and 3.5mm inputs through the small hole in the top of it. Then replaced it as normal. It sticks out maybe an 1/8" but I don't really care. Again.. Rather simple. Just a bit of time required. Now there are no wires hanging out. Both inputs are coiled in the clean ashtray!

Here are pic of the stock harness ClubRSX cut:

Be aware that pin 05 and 14 have the same wire color. 14 is for the amp power, and 05 is for the antenna power both black with a red stripe. The antenna power (05) has TWO silver painted dots on it. Amp power (14) only has ONE silver dot painted on.


Pic of how ClubRSX connected the Clarion to stock wiring:

I added a quick side bar in red after the top pic.

 

[PabloCruise]

This may already be up, but this is how I did a Kenwood Bluetooth HU on my '99 LX470. Thanks to member ClubRSX in the clublexus forms. He did all the work. I just found these pics (below) and copied em... I did choose to use the RCA preamps out of the HU to run into the stock amp. Took my time and spliced "RCA to speaker wire" leads to the corresponding speaker wire amp input leads. (FR-FR+ etc.) Seriously.. This was super simple. I then used his Clarion sheet example as a model (except for the speaker leads) and once again took my time. This was a SUPER SIMPLE job. Just a bit tedious. The improvement is unbelievable the subs are tight and actually kinda bump? AND now I have handsfree BT in my truck too.. So worth it!

I ordered the American based Chinese fascia and had to backspace the HU about 1 cm with some custom spacers and 30mm mounting screws. Fits like a glove.

I also pulled apart the useless ash tray and ran the USB and 3.5mm inputs through the small hole in the top of it. Then replaced it as normal. It sticks out maybe an 1/8" but I don't really care. Again.. Rather simple. Just a bit of time required. Now there are no wires hanging out. Both inputs are coiled in the clean ashtray!

Here are pic of the stock harness ClubRSX cut:

Pic of how ClubRSX connected the Clarion to stock wiring:

Thanks for posting this! What Kenwood unit did you go with? Did you look at other brands? When you say the subs sound good, did you replace speakers as well? We just have one sub in our '99 LXs, yes?

 

[Iocaine]

Thanks for posting this! What Kenwood unit did you go with? Did you look at other brands? When you say the subs sound good, did you replace speakers as well? We just have one sub in our '99 LXs, yes?

I installed the DDX372BT. It's a solid entry level touch screen BT 2DIN.

The LX does only have one sub. Checked it today and corrected the previous post. Sorry!

After a bit of wondering why there is no answer out there about why the RCA to speaker wire hack is not commonly accepted or even done in an any installation bay anywhere, I toddled into my local Best Buy Install shop and asked the Geek Squad.

His answer was: The RCA preamps can actually change in output voltage with increase of alternator output. This causes the factory amp to overload and blamo.. dead factory amp. He stated that not all companies even take into account this due to the fact that a RCA output should remain RCA in most installation applications (i.e. all aftermarket amplifiers.) The delicate flower that the Nakamichi amp is does not respond well to the fluctuations in voltage and blows. After a few Nakamichi replacement bills, Best Buy stopped installing head units in the LX at all. Even the mighty Crutchfield states "No info". He then stated that some companies like Kenwood and a few others lean toward the plug and play mentality of the car stereo world and possibly hold tighter tolerances on output voltages. The companies understand that a head unit replacement only is a quicker and easier sell than the "replace the entire system" package.

I guess we will see how long the factory amp lasts... It is only 17 years old! When it dies I will probably just install a powered sub from the RCA sub outputs and bypass the old amp using the factory wiring.

 

[PabloCruise]

I installed the DDX372BT. It's a solid entry level touch screen BT 2DIN.

The LX does only have one sub. Checked it today and corrected the previous post. Sorry!

After a bit of wondering why there is no answer out there about why the RCA to speaker wire hack is not commonly accepted or even done in an any installation bay anywhere, I toddled into my local Best Buy Install shop and asked the Geek Squad.

His answer was: The RCA preamps can actually change in output voltage with increase of alternator output. This causes the factory amp to overload and blamo.. dead factory amp. He stated that not all companies even take into account this due to the fact that a RCA output should remain RCA in most installation applications (i.e. all aftermarket amplifiers.) The delicate flower that the Nakamichi amp is does not respond well to the fluctuations in voltage and blows. After a few Nakamichi replacement bills, Best Buy stopped installing head units in the LX at all. Even the mighty Crutchfield states "No info". He then stated that some companies like Kenwood and a few others lean toward the plug and play mentality of the car stereo world and possibly hold tighter tolerances on output voltages. The companies understand that a head unit replacement only is a quicker and easier sell than the "replace the entire system" package.

I guess we will see how long the factory amp lasts... It is only 17 years old! When it dies I will probably just install a powered sub from the RCA sub outputs and bypass the old amp using the factory wiring.

Wow! Very interesting... I wondered why Crutchfield would not support our LX470s! So even though the RCA outputs are designed to be pre-amp outs, they can change enough to blow the very amp they plug into? Interesting... Did the Geek Squad make it sound like alternator output varies just over the RPM range to blow the amp?

Did you replace the sub or any speakers? Or just head unit?

Thanks!

 

[GregLCA]

His answer was: The RCA preamps can actually change in output voltage with increase of alternator output. This causes the factory amp to overload and blamo.. dead factory amp.

That isn't right.



The alternator is regulated to produce around 14.4V maximum. More demand for current (Amps) is not going to change the voltage that the alternator puts out....

My suspicion is that the Geek Squad was confusing terms a bit. The factory head unit probably has a very low output voltage (at the RCAs that feed the amp), and most aftermarket units have a substantially higher output voltage on those RCAs (like 4V or 8V pre-amp outputs). It would be reasonable to assume that the factory amp was designed for a limited amount of input voltage (RCA).... like maybe 2 volts.

When you double or triple the input voltage, you could easily imagine how the factory amp would have troubles trying to handle that kind of signal. A well-designed amp would probably just shut down, but the OEM amp just fries itself.

There is probably some way to measure the maximum output voltage of the OEM deck so you know what kind of input signal the OEM amp is designed to handle. I'm sure there's also a device that would limit the output voltage on an aftermarket deck so that it would more closely mimic the OEM unit.


-G