Steering shaft welding advice

[coiled40gary]

Hummmm, some thoughts on weld versus bolt...

Sure bolts shear, but with the bolt going all the way through, you would have to shear a grade 8 bolt in two seperate locations with the same movement. The shaft is a very tight fit, and the u-joint interface there is desighed to support the rotational forces by a set screw. The chances of enough rotational force developing there to shear a grade 8 bolt twice, is that even possible? And the U-joint itself and all the rest of the steering components survive?

Well, taking a look at my sample of one...
Mine has been in place for 26 years. During which time, I've turned a tie rod into a U. I've worn the u-joints on that steering shaft out to the point where you could grab the shaft, and move it up and down almost a half an inch. I've even stripped a pitman arm off the steering box once (other factors and someone elses work was involved there, but it happened). It is my daily driver as well as my trail beater, and out of balance 10 ply 37s at highway speed is probably the worst case scenario, and there has been plenty of that over the last 26 years. There was one period in time when I was running recapped military hummvee tires on dual beadlock wheels with very heavy rock rings. With four pounds (yes I typed that correctly) of lead on each wheel attempting to balance that mess, it shook so bad, it actually broke a control arm on the rear axle.

I have had need to take the steering column apart at that point, aside from the original assembly, which is much easier if the assembly comes apart there, on at least three occasions over time. Once to replace the shaft with a whole new one, and twice when I pulled the tub off the frame. To this date, there is no wear on that bolt, or the holes that it passes through.

Permenent modifications on a vehicle that may last 50 years, needs to be taken with a grain of salt. My first steering column I put in, we (different group of people, being 26 years ago) all thought this was the permenent way to go. And in fact, it lasted about 15 years, which is more than permenent for most people who own and drive their vehicles for less than 10 years, and it lasted all the other vehicles involved beyond their ownership by the people involved (except for mine). The nature of modifications is that it is very possible that 20 years from now I may simply have a better idea, and want to do it differently. You may laugh, but today, I have found several occasions that I am very glad I concidered that 20 years ago.

Over time, I would be more concerned about a shaft that has been welded and ground on several times fracturing under load than I would a grade 8 bolt used in that application shearing. And the bolt condition is easily monitored and replaced on a time cycle if that is a concern.

The bottom line is that u-joints are servicable (replaceable) items, in my simple mind a better design is one that would allow me to easier removal of the servicable items for servicing or replacement.

Just my two cents, and my opinions change often in the light of better explanations . Don't mean to step on toes.

gary

 

[beechnut]

I weld the yoke on, bolts shear.

x2, take the time to remove the shaft and disassemble the u-joint and make a clean weld.

 

[Trollhole]

We weld the top yoke on all the time, after all you never needed to take it off when there was a flange foreged to the end of the shaft (stock steering), I can't see a real reason you would need to take the yoke off. And even if you did you could always grind the weld.

We do use the "set" screw as a secondary... but we do a full weld around the shaft, I've never had an issue with it... In the olden days we used to actually "machine" a keyway into the stock shaft, and then use a keyway, and the set screw to hold it in place. Can't say I know of an issue their either.

The yoke tacked in place:

X2. Kurt knows his s***. Also has a great product.

No problems. Wet rag around joint and wet rag around bearing or steering shaft. Let everything cool slowly. I welded it with my tiny midget hands. Doing a 1/4 of the shaft and letting it cool at a time.

 

[Trollhole]

I got the bearing from:

http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/mercha...=bearings&Product_Code=Kit7354&Category_Code=

$9.95 + shipping and you don't have to sand the shaft to 3/4", geasable, but you will have to mod the flange holes to match the bolt pattern of the column.

Screw all that pillow block crap. Cruiser with the newer steering colum you can just use this bearing and forgo all the hassle. I got this from Kurt.

 

[camcruiser13]

burn it already

 

[llih]

I drilled mine, tapped the entire thing, ran a hardened cap bolt thru it and then placed a lock nut on the end. I was planning on welding it too, but haven't got around to it. I think the key is to think about what you are going to need to do before you cut the shaft off. Too short like many things in life can be a real bummer.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I drilled mine, tapped the entire thing, ran a hardened cap bolt thru it and then placed a lock nut on the end. I was planning on welding it too, but haven't got around to it. I think the key is to think about what you are going to need to do before you cut the shaft off. Too short like many things in life can be a real bummer.

True dat. In my case, I had no choice since the original powersteering conversion was done at Wardens in about 2000. So now I have what I have. I ordered the bearing from Kurt this morning, and when it gets here I'm pulling the entire shaft. If Mark W can do it in 10 minutes, I should have it in say, half a day plus or minus.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Follow up

I took almost all the advice here, IH8MUD is invaluable in a long term project like this. I pulled the shaft. Mark W must be a slow poke because it took me 5 minutes and I pulled the gas pedal as well. That was great advice. I got the bearing from Kurt and installed. Maybe ten minutes. On reassemble, I put the brass bushing back in, mostly to keep dirt off the bearing. Then I locked the whole thing in the vice, and welded the u-joint to the shaft. It's now ready for re-install tomorrow after work. Thanks everyone!

 

[78Crusher]

Here's what I did for a buddy.
Lets me use a colapsable stearing shaft of a cherokee

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Screw all that pillow block crap. Cruiser with the newer steering colum you can just use this bearing and forgo all the hassle. I got this from Kurt.

Yes-I ment to say that the Cruiseroutfitters bearing is a really elegant solution to the problem of no support for the bottom of the steering shaft. It fits like it was made for that application at the factory, and in fact, there is no reason you couldn't run it with a factory set-up. As mentioned, I did reuse the pillow block brass bushing I had to keep dirt and goo from being splashed directly on the new bearing, so I guess the bottom of my shaft has double support.