Steering Flush & Cleaning (2 Viewers)

[OwnerCS]

I had good success on several different vehicles going lock to lock with the engine off and the front wheels in the air. That seems to purge out the air before the pump starts foaming it into bubbles that become harder to purge. After my recent experience with changing out my upper steering shaft, I definitely wouldn't do this with the front wheels on the ground!

I do this by default. Never had a problem after a change.

 

[Todd Atchison]

Great thread on PS Pump Flush, Clean, Etc... I have a question. I'm currently rescuing and baselining a 98 LX with 237K on the clock. I had the PS pump topped off by my mechanic a couple days after purchase. It had been making some noise at start-up but quitting down when warm. He said it was low (He's a Toyota Guy and knows these trucks). Said it was dirty, but I could put it down on my list for a couple months as he knows I'll break doing some of the basic stuff myself. My question is how long is too long? And given the relative ease of a flush and reservoir clean should I pursue it quicker rather than later? Keep in mind it's very quite now (after adding), but he and I do recognize it needs to be done. But, I'm looking at $1200 - $1400 in the belt, H20 pump, heater t's and a snug down on a tiny value cover leak. If not daily driving it can this be a "phase 2" baseline project? Just don't want to destroy the pump... thou these sound like they are pretty built proof if maintained.

 

[SemperRex]

No, don’t do that. Remove the belt, spin the pulleys, listen for any noise.

If there is ANY noise or the pulley is loose/wobbly or completely free spinning (you spin it, it continues spinning for multiple rotations), the bearings in the pulley are toast. A new bearing feels smooth, silent, and tight.

This will allow you to isolate noise in the idler and/or tensioner pulley from noise in the power steering pump.

See also: “mechanics stethoscope” for a great tool that helps tremendously with locating and diagnosing noises.

 

[SemperRex]

No, don’t do that. Remove the belt, spin the pulleys, listen for any noise.

If there is ANY noise or the pulley is loose/wobbly or completely free spinning (you spin it, it continues spinning for multiple rotations), the bearings in the pulley are toast. A new bearing feels smooth, silent, and tight.

This will allow you to isolate noise in the idler and/or tensioner pulley from noise in the power steering pump.

See also: “mechanics stethoscope” for a great tool that helps tremendously with locating and diagnosing noise

When we said "pull the belt" means start the engine without belt?

I’m not sure why I can’t edit my previous post (I’ll sort it out and clean it up later from not-my-phone), but for clarity, this is in response to @zholea asking about pulling the belt.

 

[JakeTheSnakeNH]

Swapped out my reservoir with new OEM, and hoses care of Wits End. Not a bad job at all, and it seems to be steering a bit smoother. Fluid that came out was pretty dark. Took about 2.5 quarts to flush and top off (to max hot level after taking a quick spin post-flush).

Thanks @2001LC and @NLXTACY !

 

[zhloea]

Don't know what is going on, I changed some air hose in the engine bay, then the steering feels lighter and more accurate than before and the whining sound almost disappeared after this...

 

[JakeTheSnakeNH]

Don't know what is going on, I changed some air hose in the engine bay, then the steering feels lighter and more accurate than before and the whining sound almost disappeared after this...

View attachment 2610021

Hmm. Maybe something was rubbing on the accessory belt or PS pump pulley area.

 

[Eyedaho]

Don't know what is going on, I changed some air hose in the engine bay, then the steering feels lighter and more accurate than before and the whining sound almost disappeared after this...

View attachment 2610021

That long air line that goes to the valve on your PS line affects the idle speed when you're turning the wheel, but should only be while stopped or at really low speed I think. Don't think a leak would result in what you're saying, but possibly if it was kinked or plugged it could improve stationary or low speed steering feel when replaced. Increases idle speed to provide more PS fluid pressure.

 

[zhloea]

That long air line that goes to the valve on your PS line affects the idle speed when you're turning the wheel, but should only be while stopped or at really low speed I think. Don't think a leak would result in what you're saying, but possibly if it was kinked or plugged it could improve stationary or low speed steering feel when replaced. Increases idle speed to provide more PS fluid pressure.

You right, that whining sound only can hear when idle before I did this change. You could see in the pic all hose's both ends are cracked...

 

[MTrun]

Does anyone have the part numbers for OEM hoses if the two hoses connected to my power steering reservoir? Thinking it is time to replace as they appear to be weeping. I believe one is 44348-60240 but I am struggling to find the return hose part #? For a 2001 LC.

 

[blinder52]

Here you go. 2004 LX

 

[flintknapper]

If you just need a return hose you don't need OEM.

Do this More Information for SUNSONG 3402991 - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7659200&cc=1375253&jsn=8

 

[2001LC]

98-02 Toyota does not sell the return line separate from HP & LP assemble. Toyota does sell a return hose for 03-07.

So on 98-02 I use 29" of 3/8" transmission cooler hose. I reuse factory clamps, and the rubber isolation sleeve from old hose. I reroute the return hose between fender well and HP line, keep away from pulley of vane pump. It's less expressive and less labor than replace low pressure line.

 

[MTrun]

98-02 Toyota does not sell the return line separate from HP & LP assemble. Toyota does sell a return hose for 03-07.

So on 98-02 I use 29" of 3/8" transmission cooler hose. I reuse factory clamps, and the rubber isolation sleeve from old hose. I reroute the return hose between fender well and HP line, keep away from pulley of vane pump. It's less expressive and less labor than replace low pressure line.

Thank you guys! That makes sense why I was getting the 'this part doesn't fit your vehicle' note on McGeorge Toyota. I may not have to replace them immediately, but did the flush once already and was surprised at how easily the hoses rotated on the reservoir along with the deep impressions from the clamps.

 

[timjtitus]

98-02 Toyota does not sell the return line separate from HP & LP assemble. Toyota does sell a return hose for 03-07.

So on 98-02 I use 29" of 3/8" transmission cooler hose. I reuse factory clamps, and the rubber isolation sleeve from old hose. I reroute the return hose between fender well and HP line, keep away from pulley of vane pump. It's less expressive and less labor than replace low pressure line.

Can you take a picture of this set up?

 

[2001LC]

Can you take a picture of this set up?

Sorry don't have one at the moment here. But just look at your return line on reservoir (smaller upper hose, nearest front of vehicle). Follow it to the hard line. If it weeps/leaks replace it.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Getting ready to tackle the leaking hoses soon on my 99 LX but wanted some input...

PO had dealer replace PS pump (4432060310) and they also replaced the shorter hose (4434860240). This was done 05/01/2019 at 234k. I get that the longer return line might be original in need of replacement, but I don't want to replace that short hose if it doesn't need it. I mean it's not that much money, but it was weeping when I bought the LX back in June of 2020, so at that point it was only a year old.

Any chance I need a new reservoir? The worst leak is coming from the longer return line, so I will definitely be replacing that. The fluid still looks decent when I pull the cap out, but that's probably because the pump and fluid are only 2 years old with less than 20k on them.

 

[2001LC]

Not likely reservoir leak. If nipple busted, you'd know it. Take off and clean internal screen and inspect.

Likely the rubber return hose.
I'd Cut off first ~3/4" of return hose, on reservoir side. Reattach. Clean. Watch. If leak returns, one option is to replace just the rubber return hose only. I use ~29" x 3/8" ID transmission cooler hose. Some of these hoses, like ones from Advance Auto bulk roll. I reuse the factory clamps, as OD large enough. Some the OD is to small for factory clamps. In those I use fuel line clamps.

This is on 98-02. With 2003- up, we can buy just the rubber Toyota return hose.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Not likely reservoir leak. If nipple busted, you'd know it. Take off and clean internal screen and inspect.

Likely the rubber return hose.
I'd Cut off first ~3/4" of return hose, on reservoir side. Reattach. Clean. Watch. If leak returns, one option is to replace just the rubber return hose only. I use ~29" x 3/8" ID transmission cooler hose. Some of these hoses, like ones from Advance Auto bulk roll. I reuse the factory clamps, as OD large enough. Some the OD is to small for factory clamps. In those I use fuel line clamps.

This is on 98-02. With 2003- up, we can buy just the rubber Toyota return hose.

Autozone has this in stock which should work? There aren't any Advance Auto Parts near us....

 

[shtbrwn86]

What kind of PSI does the hose need to be rated for?

Went to Autozone and got the hose I posted earlier but it has a 10 bar label on it which I think is like 145psi
The stuff Joey sells is significantly higher PSI but not available right now.