Steering Flush & Cleaning (1 Viewer)

[thetoyotaman]

Drained and refilled the power steering for the second time adding AT-205 and surprised how dark the fluid was again just after about 7k roughly. Running Mobil DTE 24 I learned about on the 80 series forum I already had around. Think I’ll do another drain and refill at the next oil change.

 

[pili]

Hey folks, my hoses are in desperate need of replacing, but having trouble finding the part numbers for the in/out hoses to the PS reservoir. 03 LX. Does anyone happen to have a diagram of the system with part #s? Would like to price out OEM before I go down the aftermarket route.

Thanks!

 

[dwh13]

Hey folks, my hoses are in desperate need of replacing, but having trouble finding the part numbers for the in/out hoses to the PS reservoir. 03 LX. Does anyone happen to have a diagram of the system with part #s? Would like to price out OEM before I go down the aftermarket route.

Thanks!

Did you ever find the part #s? I just ordered them for my 03 LX and can dig them up for you.

Also, what’s the best procedure for replacing the hoses into and out of the reservoir (not the high pressure metal lines, just the rubber?). I’m concerned about getting air into the system.

 

[pili]

Did you ever find the part #s? I just ordered them for my 03 LX and can dig them up for you.

Also, what’s the best procedure for replacing the hoses into and out of the reservoir (not the high pressure metal lines, just the rubber?). I’m concerned about getting air into the system.

I found them thanks! Just follow procedure to burp the system after you change hoses and you should be fine. With the wheels in the air and motor off, hold steering wheel at full lock for 3seconds, reverse to other side and repeat like 5x. Then do the same with the wheels on the ground and motor running. I haven't had issues using this method after doing 2x flushes, hose replacement, and separate reservoir replacement.

I ended up replacing both hoses and the reservoir, ran at205, and have done 2 flushes since Jan19. I'm still noticing some wetness in the cracked, drivers side tie rod boot, but fluid loss is minimal so I think the at205 and hoses have mostly done the trick. Hoping to get another 50k out of the rack before I need to replace (at 184k now).

 

[PLROD]

not sure if its been mentioned here but you can also install an inline filter in the power steering line to help the cause.

 

[ElHefe]

Stock up, Mobil 1 is only $7.99 per quart: Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF 112980-1

 

[planomateo]

Stock up, Mobil 1 is only $7.99 per quart: Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF 112980-1

Believe that's their normal price. Free shipping on orders over $99. Look around the net and you can find 10% off codes.

 

[ElHefe]

Typically $10.99 at Advance Auto. I used this for price matching, so no shipping.

 

[NCGrayWolf]

My power steering fluid is low. Can I just add in some of the ATF and the sealant until I get around to a flush? I’m not sure which type of fluid is in there now.

 

[2001LC]

Yes!

 

[NCGrayWolf]

Yes!

Great should I do the synthetic or the original? What is the name of the leak seal I should add too?

 

[2001LC]

I use Mobil 1 MV full synthetic ATF. AT-205 re-seal.

 

[UGN]

The hardest part of getting my reservoir clean was the removing the black gunk from the screen. I was afraid to try and brush it with anything, so I ended up letting it soak in Mineral Spirits (in my parts washer). I then used compressed air to dislodge the build up from the screen.

Filled reservoir with M/S sloshed it around, poured it out, blasted with air, repeated. Finally got it pretty clean. I was amazed at how much of the screen was coated (blocked some places) with the residue.

Before the initial flush I use Power Steering Flush from Lubegard to clean the reservoir and the rack. It does remove black residue from the inside. I have used it on this Lexus LX and my Toyota 4Runner in the past and it did not cause any issues. I'm not sure though how is it effective to remove residue from the screen as I have not removed nor cleaned reservoirs manually. Here is the link to the product Power Steering Flush with LXE® Technology

 

[Ridgerunner78]

Great info in this thread. I ran across this thread this morning and decided it was a good day to tackle this project. The condition of my power steering reservoir has bothered me since I picked up my 100 a year and a half ago. I noticed it was very dirty and you couldn't see the level of the fluid. I have an '04 with 189k and the fluid was definitely dark.

I just wanted to add a couple things that I found helped the process of cleaning the reservoir. I ended up using a brush for cleaning drinking straws that is about 6" long and has a flexible metal shaft like this one:
Amazon product ASIN B07Y8MBLF4 .
I bent the brush end into a loop and was able to bend the shaft as needed to reach the sides, and scrubbed it clean as best as possible using dawn dish soap. In the process my kids ratted me out to my wife that "dad was cleaning car parts in the kitchen sink AGAIN!"

For the screen, I filled the bottom of the reservoir with brake cleaner with it tilted so it wouldn't run out the supply port, plugged the return port, put a rag loosely over the fill hole, then blew ~20psi air into the supply port to hopefully agitate the brake cleaner around the screen. Ended up working pretty well. After the first round I could definitely see the black build up breaking apart off the screen. 3 rounds and the screen was pretty clean.

In the process I did find that I need to replace the low pressure supply and return hoses as they were pretty hard. I plan on flushing the system again in ~10k and will replace the hoses at that time but for now I cut ~3/8" off each hose so that the barb on the ports would push past the bulge in the hoses.

Hope this helps the next guy that does this.

 

[2001LC]

Word of caution. Those nylon straw cleaners, have steel wire cores. Their metal tips are responsible for many reservoir screens with holes in them.

 

[Ridgerunner78]

Word of caution. Those nylon straw cleaners, have steel wire cores. Their metal tips are responsible for many reservoir screens with holes in them.

Good point, I could see that happening pretty easily if you just use the straight brush. The one I happened to have at home had a plastic cover over the end of the wire core, and I bent the brush into a loop so the end of the core wouldn't be pointed at the screen.

 

[MadTripper]

Thanks for the write-up. Everything worked well. I used an acid brush in conjunction with brake cleaner to get most of the gunk/sludge out. It took about 20 minutes of work to get it in significantly better shape and then followed up with compressed air.

I used Mobil 1 MV ATF. I went through the process of flushing with wheels off the ground until I saw new fluid. I was able to just put the return into an empty water bottle and slid it below the reservoir. I emptied the water bottle twice so I could easily tell when the new fluid was flowing.

Once I put things back in order, I fired things up and had some growling (which I didn't have when I started). I cycled the steering wheel slowly and then checked fluid. It was a little low with some bubbles. I topped off (had to open my 2nd quart of fluid grrrr) and then took it for a quick spin. All mellowed out and quieted down.

I also added the stainless clamps and utilized the old clamps on the output side of the reservoir nipples as mine were weepy. Other than that rack seems to be leak free but fluid was really dirty.

Appreciate the help on this forum and the detailed posts. Thanks again!!

Tripper

 

[boobird]

I wound up using 18" with the 5/8 and 25" with the 3/8.
Lumpkin at the time charged me .19 per foot for 5/8 and .09 per foot for the 3/8.

These are inner diameter measurements? Just want to be sure.

 

[Weeblewobble]

So just wanted to share my experience. I did overall, follow the write up. Thank 01LC for the detailed post.

I have an 01 with 263k miles. The rack has been leaking as well as the hoses at the reservoir. Probably for 50k miles judging by the gunk over everything.

I used carb cleaner, purple power, adams heavy duty degreaser (green) compressed air. I let the reservoir soak overnight with the diluted adams degreased. Then with a few hours soaking in purple power then finish off with carb cleaner, compressed air and a good wash.

I then flushed the system while introducing new atf (engine off, wheels off the ground holding at the stops for 3 seconds.) then topped off with At-205

everything was great! No more leaks!! Woohoo!.....then it puked all of the fluid out. Upon further inspection I was leaking at the pump shaft and low pressure return line at the pump. Result, reman pump from Napa and low pressure return line. At the same time I reclamped the reservoir hoses. Got it installed and back to great! No leaks no weird noises etc

Fast forwarded another few days, all fluid is in the drive way again...we’ll damn. This tIme leaking from the ps boot. New rack has been ordered. In the mean time I refilled with atf and about a full bottle at-205. And....leak is gone again and no signs of fluid loss.

Moral of the story At-205 works...almost to well. I think I introduced it, everything started sealing back up and all of the warm seals started showing due to higher pressure. Just a guess but it may be something to watch for/prepared for once at-205 is introduced into the system.

 

[Sirveyer]

Getting ready to do a flush. Thank you for all the great info in this thread. However, I'm debating which is the best ATF with Dexron to use. Seems Mobil 1 synthetic ATF is the preferred fluid in this and other threads related to power steering. Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't Mobil 1 have Dexron III, which is an older formulation? Isn't Dexron VI the new formulation and is superior in many properties? My understanding is that Dexron VI is backwards compatible but not the other way around since VI is superior to III.

My question is why use Mobil 1 synthetic ATF with Dexron III over other synthetic ATF with Dexron VI? It is an older generation fluid and more expensive than other brands with Dexron VI. I don't mind paying more for the best but need some confirmation that it is indeed better. How does it compare to Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid - 1 Gallon which is only $18/gal at Walmart? Mobil 1 synthetic ATF is about $10/quart.