Steering Flush & Cleaning (3 Viewers)

[camino70]

I wound up using 18" with the 5/8 and 25" with the 3/8.
Lumpkin at the time charged me .19 per foot for 5/8 and .09 per foot for the 3/8.

 

[guardcompany]

@2001LC Have a leaky rack. Did a flush 10k ago with factory fluid. Still looks good, red maybe a little bit of brown to it. Nothing burnt or black. Would you just add the AT-205 or would you still do the flush to M1? Thanks!

 

[2001LC]

Either before or after flushing works! Just add specified amount for 1 quart of power steering fluid (ATF dexron II or greater). Than drive a minimum of 10 hours. You'll have leftover AT-205 Reseal.

A thought that may sway your decision, especially if grimy when you clean the inside of the reservoir;
Flushing with M1 Full synthetic will help clean seals. Than AT-205 Reseal may penetrate the pores more readily. Also synthetic is less susceptible to heat expansion, allowing accurate reading of any loss at reservoir. But still, make note of cold and hot levels to see if holding.

The Plasticizer need not be flushed out, so makes no difference on that accord.

It's only used once every 10 years.

 

[Live to Ski]

With reference to reservoir screen: I'm not getting that photo in post #6. Is the screen just below the fill cap, or is there another one at the reservoir exit.

Also, any detailed instruction on how to remove reservoir?

 

[2001LC]

You can not see the screen until all the fluid is dumped out of reservoir, it near the bottom inside.

Go back to post #1 and review plus here's some additional notes:

• I loosen the hoses by moving clamp(s) down the hoses out of the way.
• I twist hose(s) with a pair of channel-locks to break loose from male nipples hoses are clamped on. Don't squeeze to hard.
• Reservoir just lifts up once metal keep at back side of metal brackets is bend out a little.
• I then dump out fluid into a catch can.
• I carefully pull/twist and pry off hoses. Be careful don't not put excessive force on reservoir nipples or they will break off or you'll crack reservoir
• Then clean reservoir with degreases and hot soapy water. Then dry completely before installing..

Once hoses loosened and reservoir freed up just pour out the fluid.

here you can see a bit of the screen in bottom of reservoir

Turning steering wheel lock to lock slowly and hold at lock for 3 seconds with engine off is safest method. This is easiest done with wheel off the ground. I do like to start engine to run pump just to clear valves, but not necessary.

 

[Live to Ski]

Ok, I think I get it.

The original issue was that I confused (in my mind) the routing of the PS fluid with that of the power brakes

Power brakes: reservoir sits on and is sealed to the master cylinder.

Power steering: reservoir is totally separated by hoses from the pump.

Did I say , though my excellent (in my mind) question did prevent a Least I know what I don't know!

 

[guardcompany]

Doing this project today. The outside of my return hose is starting to flake off... Worth replacing? It's about $50 shipped.

 

[2001LC]

Typically what we see is weeping of hose at reservoir. If leaking or weeping fluid, yes replace it. Otherwise probably not necessary.

 

[guardcompany]

Typically what we see is weeping of hose at reservoir. If leaking or weeping fluid, yes replace it. Otherwise probably not necessary.

Not leaking so I’ll skip it. Thanks for the write up!

 

[2001LC]

To be clear I was speaking about black rubber hose.

Your welcome!

 

[TC04LC]

Thanks, @2001LC ! Completed this project today and it was easy due to your thorough instructions. My reservoir wasn't too bad, still took me an hour to get it clean. I used a small bottle brush that is made to clean inside drinking straws and some power purple.

 

[udubfl]

X2 to 2001LC. Got a new steering rack installed by an independent shop but then my reservoir/hose started to leak. I thought a simple new clamps would do the job but after taking out the fluid from reservoir, the inside screen had so much gunk, I ended up spending a good hour scraping, cleaning, flushing out the inside. I ended up using a simple vacuum tool to bleed my system. It was also nice to check if pressure was holding or if I still had a leak. Anyway, productive weekend, appreciate everyone's info on this post.

 

[LBeckons]

Super helpful thread, wasn't really sure what I needed but Toyota quoted me $860 for the parts, yep.. Just gonna clean and flush the system and see if the PS from those hoses goes away.

 

[DangerYoshi]

This is going to be my first post, so I hope this was the appropriate thread.

I've got an 00 that I inherited a couple years ago...a bit neglected. I had a shop install a new steering rack and pinion around that time, and that is pretty much the extent of what's been touched on the steering since then. I've been getting creaking groaning noises when I turn the steering wheel, so i checked the reservoir and it appeared to be low. The reservoir was grimed up all the way to the cap. The hoses coming off it were also pretty grimey and moist looking so I assume it is leaking where the hoses meet the reservoir or the hoses are just failing.

Is it worth just trying to tighten the clamps on the hoses for now and topping it off with some ATF, or should I just go ahead and order new hoses?

 

[LBeckons]

This is going to be my first post, so I hope this was the appropriate thread.

I've got an 00 that I inherited a couple years ago...a bit neglected. I had a shop install a new steering rack and pinion around that time, and that is pretty much the extent of what's been touched on the steering since then. I've been getting creaking groaning noises when I turn the steering wheel, so i checked the reservoir and it appeared to be low. The reservoir was grimed up all the way to the cap. The hoses coming off it were also pretty grimey and moist looking so I assume it is leaking where the hoses meet the reservoir or the hoses are just failing.

Is it worth just trying to tighten the clamps on the hoses for now and topping it off with some ATF, or should I just go ahead and order new hoses?

I'm still trying to get around to doing the flush but I did top it off with fluid, I talked to the st(D)ealer on the phone and was quoted $150 for the hose, not sure we were talking about the same thing so I laughed and said no thanks. Mine doesn't make any noises though, but it does leak.

 

[thetoyotaman]

I drained & refilled once with the method here and the AT-205. I seem to lose a little fluid from time to time, mostly with trail work. Wondering if I change it a total of 3xs if that fluid loss would improve as the fluid is not completely clear yet.

 

[2001LC]

This is going to be my first post, so I hope this was the appropriate thread.

I've got an 00 that I inherited a couple years ago...a bit neglected. I had a shop install a new steering rack and pinion around that time, and that is pretty much the extent of what's been touched on the steering since then. I've been getting creaking groaning noises when I turn the steering wheel, so i checked the reservoir and it appeared to be low. The reservoir was grimed up all the way to the cap. The hoses coming off it were also pretty grimey and moist looking so I assume it is leaking where the hoses meet the reservoir or the hoses are just failing.

Is it worth just trying to tighten the clamps on the hoses for now and topping it off with some ATF, or should I just go ahead and order new hoses?

If hoses look wet they are leaking. You can re-clamp to buy some time. I find that fuel line clamps work best. But sooner or later you'll want to replace the hoses. Mean time pulling the reservoir and cleaning is a worthwhile endeavor. Some just buy (~$100) a new reservoir to save some time.

I'm still trying to get around to doing the flush but I did top it off with fluid, I talked to the st(D)ealer on the phone and was quoted $150 for the hose, not sure we were talking about the same thing so I laughed and said no thanks. Mine doesn't make any noises though, but it does leak.

Flushing is so easy and fast. It cleaning the reservoir that can be a PITA, but needs done once if you keep up the flushing)

I drained & refilled once with the method here and the AT-205. I seem to lose a little fluid from time to time, mostly with trail work. Wondering if I change it a total of 3xs if that fluid loss would improve as the fluid is not completely clear yet.

The more you flush the better. But if hoses not leaking and AT-205 didn't stop your leak, it's best to find the sources.

Sources for leaks:
Reservoir. (R&R)
Hoses, gasket at ends of HP line union bolt at end of LP line. (R&R)
Vane pump. Sign pump is failing. (replace vane pump)
Input shaft. (AT-205 fix 90 % of the time)
Side shaft of rack. (AT-205 fixes 50 % of the time)

 

[LBeckons]

If hose look wet they are leaking. You can re-clamp to buy some time. I find that fuel line clamps work best. But sooner or later you'll want to replace the hoses. Mean time pulling the reservoir and cleaning is a worthwhile endeavor. Some just buy (~$100) a new reservoir to save some time.

Flushing is so easy and fast. It cleaning the reservoir that can be a PITA, but needs done once if you keep up the flushing)

The more you flush the better. But if hoses not leaking and AT-205 didn't stop your leak, it's best to find the sources.

Sources for leaks:
Reservoir. (R&R)
Hoses, gasket at ends of HP line union bolt at end of LP line. (R&R)
Vane pump. Sign pump is failing. (replace vane pump)
Input shaft. (AT-205 fix 90 % of the time)
Side shaft of rack. (AT-205 fixes 50 % of the time)

I'm with you that it's easy, I did go to the Home Depot and might have got all the right parts? Got confused with inside diameter/outside diameter but I know I need to clean the reservoir and I'm being lazy. On the plus side a installed a new antenna today and hopefully pill remember to put it down next time on the trails!

 

[thetoyotaman]

It’s the rack. Strange how it’s not consistent though.

 

[WickedPickle]

I just completed and screen looked good but my steering rack was replaced by PO at 90k and I have 131k now (I took over at 103k). Thanks for the write up.