Steering Flush & Cleaning (2 Viewers)

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WOW, the OEM hoses were near 100 bucks? CRAZY!
 
Any thought to adding an external in line filter?

Power Steering Filters | Gates Corporation

I am not expert here, but imo, I do not think it will hurt, but periodic flush or even just draining the reservoir, and add new fluid should be good enough to keep the fluid in good condition (assuming it starts with fresh fluid). You still need to replace the fluid at some point even with a filter.
 
I just completed my third flush in about 3 years. This is the first flush where the fluid coming out looked as good as the fluid going in.
 
I just completed my third flush in about 3 years. This is the first flush where the fluid coming out looked as good as the fluid going in.
How many miles driven in last year?
 
How many miles driven in last year?
And also- are you running original return/or pressure line hoses, or have those been replaced?
 
And also- are you running original return/or pressure line hoses, or have those been replaced?

Driving ~15,000 miles per year.
All original parts, and I have not removed nor cleaned the reservoir.
Did the first flush after I bought it 3 years ago. Fluid was dark, a little low, and I would get the occasional groan. Second flush the fluid looked OK, just not as bright red as the new fluid. On this third flush it was impossible to tell the difference between old and new.
 
Also,
I use the engine-off flush method. Per the original post, it makes it easier to keep air out of the system:

1. Withdraw fluid from reservoir.
2. Pull, cap, and connect hoses as described here.
3. Jack up front end of truck on the front diff cross member so front wheels are hanging free.
4. Turn key to "on." Don't start truck. The engine stays off throughout the flush.
5. Fill reservoir.
6. Turn wheel all the way left, then all the way right.
7. Top off reservoir.
8. Repeat until clean fluid can be seen in the bucket (return line), usually within a couple quarts.
 
I've got it down to just the one qt. during flush, which is system cap. I've found it will look clear red after third flush (~20k miles) with M1 ATF, while going through clear hose and in bottom of bucket. But when I poor waste buckets into glass jar and inspect, it's not as clear red looking as new fluid.
 
Got a question on step 8

Appears you have a hose running from the return inlet- (green circle) Is that just a spare piece of hose you installed and plugged? The red circled hose, is that the actual return line that connects to the reservoir inlet nipple?

01 LX470 power steering clean & flush, bank 2 sensor 1. 3-28-16 044.JPG
 
At the dealer we flush the power steering system. We have a machine made by bg. We add a bg chemical first to the steering reservoir then run the engine for avout 15 minutes to let the chemical get into the system and get hot. This breaks up the gunk in the system. Then we use the machine to suck and add fluid at the same time. The fluid viscosity breaks down over time and won't work well in the cold weather. Debris from moving components also gets into the fluid over time. I think fresh fluid also helps the systems seals not leak since debris is not in the fluid.
 
Got a question on step 8

Appears you have a hose running from the return inlet- (green circle) Is that just a spare piece of hose you installed and plugged? The red circled hose, is that the actual return line that connects to the reservoir inlet nipple?

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Yep, that exactly what I've done!

You must plug return nipple coming off reservoir or you can't top reservoir, as fluid will run out. If you use a clear hose as a plug, you'll see level drop in it as reservoir empties. Makes a nice visual aid when/if reservoir is obscured.

Make sure you run engine for just a moment, if you use that method. Any longer and reservoir will empty drawing air into system, and pump will run dry.

If you are really careful you'll only use one qt. which is system capacity. But it nice to have second qt. on hand just in case. If I don't have extra qt. "on hand", I switch to fresh clean catch can for last bit of flush, use as top off if needed.
 
Yep, that exactly what I've done!

You must plug return nipple coming off reservoir or you can't top reservoir, as fluid will run out. If you use a clear hose as a plug, you'll see level drop in it as reservoir empties. Makes a nice visual aid when/if reservoir is obscured.

Make sure you run engine for just a moment, if you use that method. Any longer and reservoir will empty drawing air into system, and pump will run dry.

If you are really careful you'll only use one qt. which is system capacity. But it nice to have second qt. on hand just in case. If I don't have extra qt. "on hand", I switch to fresh clean catch can for last bit of flush, use as top off if needed.
Perfect- Thanks for the assist Paul.
 
Wow what a simple job this turned out to be- pleasantly surprised. I have to say prob. the easiest fluid exchange of the list compared to diff's, engine oil etc.

Thanks 2001LC for the write up- and photos.

When I bought the truck I had all the fluids changed by an indi Toyota shop-engine oil, diff's, tcase, trans, radiator, brakes and power steering. With the exception of the BG trans fluid exchange.- I'll do these myself moving forward.

It's been maybe 12,000 miles since those services and I wanted to do the PS system again. When they flushed it last, the removed and cleaned the reservoir- and based on how clean it was when I drained it, it's evident they did.

I have a huge syringe so I withdrew most of the fluid from the tank with hoses still attached. I then disconnected the return hose and removed the reservoir from the holder, outlet hose still attached. I drained the last bit of fluid in the bottom and attached the plugged clear line to the return nipple. If you look at the pictures you see this also see this tube serves as a sight gauge- when the fluid gets low in that clear line- is when I add more fluid and keep flushing. I filled the reservoir with fresh M1 ATF. I extended the return hose into a drain bottle and proceeded to raise the front of the truck.

With the wheels off the ground, turning the steering wheel lock to lock 3x pretty much drains the reservoir. Refilled and repeated until the fluid changed from brown to M1 red. I repeated the process put a full quart through the system, and another 1/2 quart. I was surprised at how well the system pumps out the fluid manually. There really is no need to run the motor.

Removed drain bottle, plug line reinstalled the return line to the reservoir replaced factory clamp in the exact same position. Topped off reservoir, started the motor and let things run, checked steering lock to lock and checked for leaks.

That was that. About 1 hr start to finish including clean up. Super easy 1/2 :banana: job. I don't see any need for the a transfer pump type service like the BG service- this DIY method is very easy and fully exchanges the fluid manually.

The fluid that came out had no debris what so ever, nor did the reservoir. The fluid itself was dark but not cooked. Happy to have this done and now I can get on with over maintaining some other system on the truck:hillbilly:.

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Lol. More power to you guys. My truck has a quarter million miles on it and I've never flushed the PS system. Drives just fine. I guess I just don't have the time to be quite as attentive to my truck as some of you guys. You got my respect.
 
Good job @abuck99

BTW: Transmission is a 1/2 :banana: in the 98-03, just takes a $1.00 drain plug washer & larger bucket.
It's a :banana: in 04-07 just because they lack a dip stick to fill through.
 
Lol. More power to you guys. My truck has a quarter million miles on it and I've never flushed the PS system. Drives just fine.

Mine was too. I've not owned the truck all that long and when I got it the maintenance records were in disarray. So I did the trans, diffs, transfer case, timing belt, heater hose Ts, AHC flush, brake flush, etc., but never flushed the PS system (never did it in any other vehicle so why change now?).

But after reading the posting in reply to 2001LC's writeup I finally decided to use up a quart or two of the syn ATF I had on the shelf. The noise (mostly whine) in the engine compartment went down a significant amount -- much more than I would have thought the PS system would contribute.

My thanks to @2001LC for making it simple enough for me to handle and the other contributors for helping get me off my rear end.
 
I don't have any whine, but I suppose it couldn't hurt. Because I flat tow my truck thousands of miles a year the power steering system is always getting fresh fluid. While towing the fluid pushes out of the reservoir (there's a reason for this but won't take the time here) so I'm always adding fluid throughout the year so in a way I'm doing a slow flush :)
 

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