There are a numbers of threads on how to R&R a R&P. But I'll answer your questions on parts and give a few tip, in this one post.
Only way to get OEM mounting bushing, is buying OEM rack & pinion (R&P). So you're set.
I replace all hoses weeping. No need to replace, good ones not weeping.
Also make sure idle up control vacuum lines (duel), good.
Vane pump, is likely fine. 95% of times, they leak when not. No leaks, don't touch!
Replace the gasket (horseshoe) on HP line banjo fitting at racks pinion. Same for vane pump side, if vane side banjo bolt removed. Which is not necessary, if just R&R R&P only.
I'll give a few of tips:
- First flush all fluid from the system.
- I then remove & clean reservoir, if, any sediment in bottom or debris in screen. We want clean, for the new R&P.
- I just lift, DS of engine. Removing just that side, engine mount bolts. I lift at bell housing (BH), with bottle jack placed on driver side of BH.
- I also remove the bolts holding on fan shroud to radiator. To give fan room, as engine lifted. Do get so high, heater tees and hoses damaged.
- Count threads, on TRE. Helps, to get toe in back where it was. But still, have alignment service done.
- I never beat on steering knuckles, to remove TRE or ball joints, I use puller. I will beat on TRE bolt shaft if not reusing, to it knock out. But only if it's one, that's not really stuck. Most are very stuck on, so I almost always use a puller.
- Remove oil filter, and bent it's oil shoot upward a tad. You can bend back later.
- Do not pound upward toward steering wheel, getting off intermetal shaft from input shaft of rack, in VGRS (LX470 03-07). This can damage the VGRS actuator.
- Use a crowfoot flare nut socket on a short extension, to R&R LP line fitting from rack.
BTW: keep very mindful of steering wheel position. Do not turn it, with rack disconnect or even TRE end(s) off. Anymore than to bring back to level, while attaching intermediate shaft. Turn to far, will bust the clock spring. Turn and get confused and then clock wrong, you bust the clock spring while driving.
New rack has paint on input shafts boot and R&P. This center the input shaft, with TRE equally side to side. Use the paint to attach intermediate shaft/steering wheel centered.
Some pull off, steering wheel to center and re-clock the spring. I don't. I just stay mindfully, and line up within one or two splines of dead-on at rack. With TRE equal threads count on each side. Then let alignment shop center in non VGRS, with TOE adj. With VGRS, I center in tech stream. But still I always work to attach within a few splines of center.
