Starter Problem need advice (1 Viewer)

[Kernal]

Might be interesting if you opened the "door" of the solenoid (three small bolts), remove the plunger and took some photos of the contact surfaces of the plunger and the contacts. Be careful, don't loose the small ball bearing that sits down inside the solenoid, it might fall out if you tip the starter.

Or, if you don't plan to return the old starter, take the starter completely apart
and post up a bunch of photos so we can see what's worn, what isn't, what was replaced during the rebuild, what wasn't. You could also check the quality of the parts ie: NSK bearings (original or new), or cheapo chynna bearings, ----.

 

[OmegaDude]

Might be interesting if you opened the "door" of the solenoid (three small bolts), remove the plunger and took some photos of the contact surfaces of the plunger and the contacts. Be careful, don't loose the small ball bearing that sits down inside the solenoid, it might fall out if you tip the starter.

Or, if you don't plan to return the old starter, take the starter completely apart
and post up a bunch of photos so we can see what's worn, what isn't, what was replaced during the rebuild, what wasn't. You could also check the quality of the parts ie: NSK bearings (original or new), or cheapo chynna bearings, ----.

According to FedEx, the Denso starter should arrive today (only 2 day shipping). The terminal housing and repair wires are suppose to arrive sometime next week.

I did take the back cover off of the solenoid, and the contact services looked a bit gnarly (but to be fair, I don't know what they're supposed to look like). I did take some sand paper and clean up the contact surfaces. I did this before ordering a new starter, and of course I did not take pics... I can still take it apart and take some pics for sh!ts and gigs.

 

[JoeCova]

According to FedEx, the Denso starter should arrive today (only 2 day shipping). The terminal housing and repair wires are suppose to arrive sometime next week.

I did take the back cover off of the solenoid, and the contact services looked a bit gnarly (but to be fair, I don't know what they're supposed to look like). I did take some sand paper and clean up the contact surfaces. I did this before ordering a new starter, and of course I did not take pics... I can still take it apart and take some pics for sh!ts and gigs.

Did you use a volt-meter to verify volts to the starter connector. New starter (while better) is moot if it's not getting enough through the curcuit.

 

[alia176]

Did you use a volt-meter to verify volts to the starter connector. New starter (while better) is moot if it's not getting enough through the curcuit.

Exactly, that's why I wrote up post #20 hoping the OP would start there. Swapping out starters is a waste of time unless some fundamental troubleshooting takes place first.!!!

 

[OmegaDude]

Exactly, that's why I wrote up post #20 hoping the OP would start there. Swapping out starters is a waste of time unless some fundamental troubleshooting takes place first.!!!

I have not had a chance yet to test voltage to the starter connector - dang work and kids activities keep getting in the way...

 

[OmegaDude]

It's likely just low voltage to the starter itself...like everyone else.

Read the later end of this thread, I put in some advice for troubleshooting. Short version is to create a jumper wire that you can run from the starter connector directly to the battery. This bypasses all of the internal wiring which may be the issue, if even you spliced the connector wire there is a high chance that you just arent getting enough volts through that old curcuit.

94 delayed cranking. Starter, ignition switch, or other?

My issue was not the big (hot 12v) wire being corroded. It was signal wire from the ignition switch not being adequate sometimes. It could be the small wire itself, the switch or the 12v to the ignition switch. The Ford solenoid takes 12v directly from the battery to the solenoid switch...

forum.ih8mud.com

I read your post, I like that jumper wire you made.

 

[alia176]

I have not had a chance yet to test voltage to the starter connector - dang work and kids activities keep getting in the way...

Life does get in the way at times.

 

[alia176]

This would also be a good time to do the starter," click, click mod" that's been discussed elsewhere in this forum. Using a relay and heavy gauge wires to bypass the puny starter wire will prevent the famous "click click" sound when trying to crank the starter with the key. I did this few years back and not a single click click issue since.

 

[Hornd]

It's a good idea to go through all the connections in the entire starter loop, cleaning them with Deoxit. Any burnt or pitted contacts should be replaced. You should also remove and clean the NSS. Not the NSS wiring connector, the NSS itself. The grease inside is probably gross and contaminated, and the contacts likely have grooves worn in them.

I had a reman Denso. It was great, but twice in a year or so it failed to start. Smacked the end with a hammer and it would start right up. I replaced the starter solenoid contacts and followed the FSM, using a hydraulic press to hold the contacts in place while tightening them. Never had another problem.

Duplicate Experience here:

I too have a Denso Reman (I think it is 2.4kw) from Rock Auto.
When Truck goes on Trips (3 hrs Plus) and stops to refill the tank it would not start.
Has done it Randomly 3X. Once at Costco Gas Station with a line of people behind me.

This last time was on way to Michigan Cruiserfest and 3.5 hours from Home.

I have tried the Noco and a Jump from Second Battery.

This last occurrence I gave it a Smack with the Rod from the Jack Kit and it started Immediately.

Wife was Super Impressed.

I think I should change the Contacts but it's a Hassle to Remove. Wish I was Left Handed.

 

[jonheld]

I think I should change the Contacts but it's a Hassle to Remove. Wish I was Left Handed.

It would be more of a hassle if the starter contacts welded closed and burned your truck to the ground.

 

[rebelcruiser]

"When Truck goes on Trips (3 hrs Plus) and stops to refill the tank it would not start."


This happened to me awhile back. Checked voltage, connections etc. Removed starter to test and found everything in working order. Reinstalled starter and haven't had a problem since. Maybe bad grounding made good by cleaning mounting surfaces?

 

[OmegaDude]

I reconnected the NSS and tested the voltage to the starter connector. I got 11.90v - 11.85v when turning the key. I did 3 attempts. Battery tested at 12.5v.

 

[60wag]

My 96 would occasionally do the no start thing - no click, no clunk, just nothing. I had pulled the starter and replaced the contacts, or polished the recently replaced contacts and that seemed to help. BUT then it would start doing it again a couple months later. I checked the NSS and found good continuity. My most recent effort involved unplugging the security system starter interrupt. This is the RS3000, port installed alarm. It is plugged into the connector going to the ignition switch. Simply unplug two connectors, and plug the ignition switch back into the factory harness. This does not show up on the factory wiring diagram. I still have remote door locks, not sure what other alarm functions I may have lost but the truck starts great, its been a couple months. We'll see if the no start comes back.

 

[OmegaDude]

Update: I have installed the new Denso starter. I just received the replacement terminal housing and wire repair parts. As shown above I was getting 11.85v-11.9v to the starter cable. Is that enough?

 

[alia176]

Update: I have installed the new Denso starter. I just received the replacement terminal housing and wire repair parts. As shown above I was getting 11.85v-11.9v to the starter cable. Is that enough?

what does this voltage dip down to while cranking? That's the number that means something.

 

[Marco Lau]

Ford starter solenoid is your fix and have been well documented. I also went thru numerous starter rebuild (OEM) and a brand new denso starter with a pig tail connector. The problem is the internal signal wire not providing enough juice to the starter solenoid.

 

[alia176]

Ford starter solenoid is your fix and have been well documented. I also went thru numerous starter rebuild (OEM) and a brand new denso starter with a pig tail connector. The problem is the internal signal wire not providing enough juice to the starter solenoid.

Yup, this is the dreaded "click click" symptoms and quite a few of us have done the aftermarket solenoid or relay to bring higher amperage to the solenoid. I'm curious what's going on in this scenario!

 

[jonheld]

Ford starter solenoid is your fix and have been well documented. I also went thru numerous starter rebuild (OEM) and a brand new denso starter with a pig tail connector. The problem is the internal signal wire not providing enough juice to the starter solenoid.

I can't get behind this type of "fix". I'd rather repair the underlying issue rather than bypass a fault. Especially since the starter logic path is pretty simple on these trucks.

 

[Marco Lau]

I can't get behind this type of "fix". I'd rather repair the underlying issue rather than bypass a fault. Especially since the starter logic path is pretty simple on these trucks.

so what is your fix? replacing the 30 yr old engine harness?

 

[JoeCova]

Update: I have installed the new Denso starter. I just received the replacement terminal housing and wire repair parts. As shown above I was getting 11.85v-11.9v to the starter cable. Is that enough?

Maybe not. I recall mine was a similar volts which was not enough, you can test it with a jumper cable.