Starter clicking noise but no startup... FJ60 (1 Viewer)

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Hi guys,

I'm 26 and my 85 fj60 is my daily. (haven't been able to daily it in 2.5 years....lol) Coming off a huge rebuild process and now having starting issues with the starter/ignition. I get a click the first crank, then nothing. The starter gradually starter sounding weaker and weaker. I could only get the rig to start for a couple days but jumping it. When I jumped it starter wizzed super fast and started right up, that was 3 days ago. Now nothing. Did a trickle charge,everything, Nothing helps..The starter got to a point where it just clicks now in the dash. Nothing in the way of startup. Already replaced the starter, etc. And i've read a thousand threads with no resolution....

Context:
Im showing 12.4 volts on the two battery temrminals, showing 8-10ish volts on the gauge though.. Which happens to be the same amount that's showing on the positive connetion of the starter. I replaced the starter today thinking that was the issue but same problem. I get a clicking noise in the dash the first crank, then no clicking noise after that. I tried repalcing the inigiton relay under the steering well. No dice.. [bear in mind I'm aware the plastic clip is cutoff in the photos I have, I was in the middle of replacing the old space just in case, but I had it hooked properly when i was cranking it]-----


Assuming not the starter since I just replaced the part. It was getting weaker and weaker on startup. I haven't had a buddy help me by cranking while I check the voltage to the different connections, and I have yet to try a starter jump. But based on the evidence I have, Does this mean I have a worn connection somewhere in between the battery terminals and starter,? I'm guessing but 10.5 volts seems like I'm losing a lot once it gets to the starter, meaning it's not getting enough power to activate it. The lights in the rig are on and everything else seems to have power. It is odd there's a descriepncy between what the cluster shows and what the terminals show in voltage.....

I have yet to find a resolution to this on all the threads I've looked at, the guys just never post what actually happened. The only solutions I can think of so far are the following:
1. cleaning up my connections a bit with a brush, {which I've done, and the rig started up fine for months before this. }
2. replacing my ground to the starter {I read somewhere the starters ground themselves on the bell housing though..} ,
3.checking the fusesible link(s) {I have an aftermarket battery harness} {Should the white clip in my photo have 12v coming through too or jsut the green?}
4.or running new wire as shown in the linked YouTube video. Do some guys install after-market relays to fix the low voltage issue? (shown in timestamp 7:30 of this video... )

After reading, Everything to me points towards the starter isn't getting enough power, but all I've read the only solution is these rigs have old wiring that often just needs a new relay. Yes, I'm gonna try the easy stuff first but I doubt it will change anything, hence why I'm posting this thread now. But is aftermarket relay setup really the only way to get more volts to the starter??

I don't have time to go down a million rabbit holes, hoping people can guide me to actionable solutions the first 3 items I listed that are common sense. I'm not good with electrical stuff yet and would love more of a step-by-step solution that has worked for someone. {Once again, couldn't find any threads that had an actual solution}.



Thanks in advance, need to get this rig back on the road!

Dan

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From your description, and the results of your testing it sure does seem like you have a poorly conducting positive cable. You could try putting a jumper cable from the positive side of the battery to the starter and then try to start it up. If this improves the starter's function then you have narrowed down the problem to a bad cable. You could then replace it or go through every connection and clean it with sandpaper or a stiff wire brush.
 
Replace your s***ty old battery terminals with some good ones and then come back if you still have a problem. Will I promise this is the issue? Nope. But you really need to put some good brass marine style terminals (with crimped on lugs) under your hood anyway. It is a one time thing. Lead terminals are cheap to make and they conduct well. When they are new and young. They stretch and get hard to keep tight. They split and tear and deform. The contact area degrades. Those aftermarket ones like you have never really maintain a good clean contact under that bar clamp as time goes by.

Brass terminals are a one time lifetime upgrade. For a few bucks.

I'd bet a dollar that this is your current problem too.



Something like this:



Mark...
 
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there is a guy on here that sells new cables cut to length and ready to go for your truck. I switched mine out a long time ago and it made a noticeable difference from my old worn out cables. I would upgrade these even if you have other issues.
 
there is a guy on here that sells new cables cut to length and ready to go for your truck. I switched mine out a long time ago and it made a noticeable difference from my old worn out cables. I would upgrade these even if you have other issues.
Paging @Fourrunner - @Beehanger needs some new cables!

Also @Beehanger you're definitely in need of some new terminals. I'd also test that fusible link, all three wires. Too much resistance there is no good. And yeah, battery sounds like it's not doing it's job anymore too.
 
Check this out.
 
D
Check this out.
So guessing by these responses, 12.4 volts at the terminals doesn’t necessarily mean the terminals aren’t going bad, correct? The lower dash reading is what indicates a bad connection, not the terminal reading at the battery?
 
D

So guessing by these responses, 12.4 volts at the terminals doesn’t necessarily mean the terminals aren’t going bad, correct? The lower dash reading is what indicates a bad connection, not the terminal reading at the battery?
I had similar voltage readings and starting symptoms. So, I decided to replace the starter (which was old) and that eliminated the clicking but voltage remained same. Then I got the replacement cable set and new battery. Voltage readings went up, stronger starting crank. Solved my issues.
 
When the engine is running, battery voltage at the terminals should be above 14V. When a battery is fully charged and engine off it’s voltage should be 12.7V.
A tenth of a volt is a big deal for a 12V battery. 12.7V is fully charged while at 12.4 volts, your battery will be at roughly 75% charge. At 12.2 volts it will be at 50% charge and at 12 volts it will be at roughly 25% charge.

But you can’t use voltage to determine if a battery has enough AMPS to crank a starter.
A worn out useless battery can be charged up to 12.6-12.7V but it won’t be able to turn over a starter
 
Even little things like this can contribute to substantial voltage drop, that starter motor is clearly quite new and the ring terminal is obviously corroded and nasty. I always clean these up before reinstalling - a bit of sandpaper or something, I want to see nice clean bright metal before clamping it down.

You should also learn how to do a "voltage drop" test, this test will allow you to explore the entire length of your conduction path and identify the contribution that each connection/joint/terminal is adding to the total voltage drop along the path. Google "voltage drop test" and watch some videos, its an invaluable skill when dealing with old Landcruisers.

Others have already noted that the state of your earth lead, high current starter lead, and battery terminals are really bad too. I'd just rip most of it out and redo it personally.

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When the engine is running, battery voltage at the terminals should be above 14V. When a battery is fully charged and engine off it’s voltage should be 12.7V.
A tenth of a volt is a big deal for a 12V battery. 12.7V is fully charged while at 12.4 volts, your battery will be at roughly 75% charge. At 12.2 volts it will be at 50% charge and at 12 volts it will be at roughly 25% charge.

But you can’t use voltage to determine if a battery has enough AMPS to crank a starter.
A worn out useless battery can be charged up to 12.6-12.7V but it won’t be able to turn over a starter
will a worn battery jumped be able to turn over a starter or is it the same principle?
 
will a worn battery jumped be able to turn over a starter or is it the same principle?
You have dirty and damaged contacts everywhere. Start there and see what happens. Replace and/or clean all the ground cable ends and mating surfaces and the bolts they’re held down with. Replace the starter cable. Replace the battery terminals. We can guess all day long but those are a very possibly culprit that’s easy to check off the “possible” list if you just fix it all. Even if none of that is the problem you’ve improved your truck’s electrical system.

Then see where you’re at.
 
D

So guessing by these responses, 12.4 volts at the terminals doesn’t necessarily mean the terminals aren’t going bad, correct? The lower dash reading is what indicates a bad connection, not the terminal reading at the battery?

Did you check the battery voltage with the probes on the battery posts... or on the cable ends?

Additionally, just because the connection between the two might support full voltage at the micro current needed for the tester, that does not mean that the connection is sufficient to pass the high amperage needed to spin the starter.

When you jump start the rig, the jumper cable go onto the cable ends, bypassing any bad connection between the cable ends and the battery posts.

Your primary problem right now might be elsewhere. But the cable ends are suspect. They need to be better than they are regardless. They might be the problem right now. And it is a cheap fix. If nothing else, you eliminate the variable so you can figure out what else is causing the issue at the moment, and get ahead of the eventual problems they will cause down the road.


Mark...
 
Your cables do need some love. Also how many times have you started the engine in the past without ever getting it to run? Are you just not getting enough juice from the battery anymore? From your posts it didn’t seem like you have had the engine running long enough for a significant charge.
 
Your cables do need some love. Also how many times have you started the engine in the past without ever getting it to run? Are you just not getting enough juice from the battery anymore? From your posts it didn’t seem like you have had the engine running long enough for a significant charge.
ill try jumping it
 
Resolved the issue, cranks like a charm! . Think it was a bad positive. Redid all my lugs and terminals and replaced the starter, not sure what did it but would bet it was a bad connection, now showing 12.8 volts not 12.4 and the battery charge was unchanged.

Thanks for all the help!

Dan
 
Hi gents,
never a dull moment. i've convinced myself I have weird noises in the engine, used a stethoscope and all of it. I have nothing to go off other than other youtube videos on idling noises. Would love your take. videos are posted here.

 

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