SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (27 Viewers)

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Should just pop in (and the old one out) by hand. Might require some effort, but certainly not a press.
Awesome, thank you
 
Anyone know where to source a pair of grade 10.9 or higher flange hex bolts M14x1.5 (fine thread) 110mm long? Ideally Zinc or some other rust-resistant coating. I can find 100mm and I might be able to source 120mm and then cut it down, but I’d prefer not to grind and chase threads on this.

FYI I found these ARB parts online, but they are only available from the UK with a $35 shipping charge, which is crazy expensive. contacted Cruiser Outfitters but they can’t source them.

BOLT FLANGE M14X1.5X110 GR10.9 – 6151539 – ARB
PART NO. 6151539

 
Two stupid questions that have been bugging me

2018 Land Cruiser

1. Is there a way to override the remote-started engine turning off when the doors are unlocked? I understand the reasoning behind turning off the engine, but frankly it doesn't hold much water in my opinion.
2. Is there a way to lock the doors with the engine running and parked? I like to be able to run quick errands and keep the engine running; I'd like to be able to lock the doors when walking away.
 
Two stupid questions that have been bugging me

2018 Land Cruiser

1. Is there a way to override the remote-started engine turning off when the doors are unlocked? I understand the reasoning behind turning off the engine, but frankly it doesn't hold much water in my opinion.
2. Is there a way to lock the doors with the engine running and parked? I like to be able to run quick errands and keep the engine running; I'd like to be able to lock the doors when walking away.

1. There’s currently no known bypass for this.

2. While the engine is running, the best way is to lock the doors from the inside, then manually unlock the driver door from the inside (by flipping the switch), get out and close the door, then take out your key and manually lock the drivers side door. Then you will need to manually unlock the drivers side door to get back in the vehicle once you return from your errands. (Your unlock button on your key fob won’t work while the vehicle is running).

I like to do this on cold mornings while the cruiser is warming up.
 
If the battery dies, will the powered rear upper hatch still unlock? I’ll gladly open it manually, but don’t want to put an extra hole in my truck to get into the back without power. TIA.
The lower hatch is a bigger problem - no possible way to easily open that with no power, and no way to get the spare off without opening it...

Mine had a fault - took all day to pull it apart from inside to get it to open, and was no obvious way to rig up any manual override if the electrics crap out (I got it open by putting 12v into the actuator motor directly - if it had been a mechanical or failed-actuator fault, there would not have been any way to open it - the screws are hidden when it's closed...

Keep this in mind if you're fitting fridges or drawers in the back (and especially if you have a cargo barrier) - if you cannot open it, you'll have to remove the contents some other way so you can get access to the inside of the door from inside the back to fix that.
 
Anybody know what the symbol means inside this OEM 200 series mirror cover?


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I believe it means, "Use other side of mirror to see objects behind you."
But I could be wrong...
 
Was able to solve the mystery in another thread. Pretty cool actually...

It is the logo for the Murakami Corporation which has historically manufactured interior and exterior rearview mirrors for Toyota Land Cruisers.

 
ok guys - i did the oil pan reseal. i am still getting some oil drip pooling on pass side

it looks like it’s coming from this pan

help appreciated


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@ryanCA that is the lower engine oil pan pictured in your second picture. Isn't that what you just resealed? It could also be coming from a source inside or above the bellhousing and just accumulating on the lower pan flange, but it is really hard to tell with the out of focus pic. It looks like there is a fair amount of oil around that plug at 6 o'clock on the bellhousing.

I'd clean it off really well/degrease it, and then watch every day to see where the oil is originating from.
 
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ok guys - i did the oil pan reseal. i am still getting some oil drip pooling on pass side

it looks like it’s coming from this pan

help appreciated


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It’s hard to follow this oil leak saga when it’s scattered in the SQOD thread. I do remember it being a problem for a while, maybe after a service? Is it coming from up high, or could it be a rear main seal? (Assuming your pan and seal job are ok.)
 
Is there a thread here in the forums laying out or discussing Black Friday deals? I’m thinking it’s time for sliders or a roof rack
 
i self rescued, deals thread here:
 
Hey everyone, I’m about to install a hidden winch in my 2016 LX. There’s not much that exists on here on the facelift LX, so looking for advice:

I need to cut an opening in the black plastic engine bay cover so I can access the switch for the winch. What can I put around the edges of the opening over the rough edges of the plastic so it’s not sharp and it looks finished? Here’s a photo of what I’d like it to look like. Credit for the photo goes to ACC Garage (@BMThiker).

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Hey everyone, I’m about to install a hidden winch in my 2016 LX. There’s not much that exists on here on the facelift LX, so looking for advice:

I need to cut an opening in the black plastic engine bay cover so I can access the switch for the winch. What can I put around the edges of the opening over the rough edges of the plastic so it’s not sharp and it looks finished? Here’s a photo of what I’d like it to look like. Credit for the photo goes to ACC Garage (@BMThiker).

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that looks like plain old pinch trim, sometimes called pinch weld. You can also get it with a rubber trim piece attached to cover over gaps. You just need to measure how thick the plastic you're cutting is and get the corresponding thickness.
 
that looks like plain old pinch trim, sometimes called pinch weld. You can also get it with a rubber trim piece attached to cover over gaps. You just need to measure how thick the plastic you're cutting is and get the corresponding thickness.

Thanks @grinchy. Do you think something like this would work? I’m not sure about the thickness of that panel that covers the front of the engine.

KX Edge Trim Black Small, 1/8" Fits Edge, PVC Plastic Edge Trim U Shape Black Large Edge Protector (10 Feet) https://a.co/d/cRA2JY7
 
The lower hatch is a bigger problem - no possible way to easily open that with no power, and no way to get the spare off without opening it...

Mine had a fault - took all day to pull it apart from inside to get it to open, and was no obvious way to rig up any manual override if the electrics crap out (I got it open by putting 12v into the actuator motor directly - if it had been a mechanical or failed-actuator fault, there would not have been any way to open it - the screws are hidden when it's closed...

Keep this in mind if you're fitting fridges or drawers in the back (and especially if you have a cargo barrier) - if you cannot open it, you'll have to remove the contents some other way so you can get access to the inside of the door from inside the back to fix that.
Correct. This can ruin a trip. I highly recommend 2018+ LC200 owners verify they have the OEM cord override thing for the actuators. If not add them, especially if you have drawers and a fridge.

I was lucky that the rear door would open and was able to wedge my hands in the tailgate storage area (with drawers).

 
Need help with a part number. I’m looking for the circular plug that fits the front doors. I guess it provides access to the door handle/locking mechanism. I’ve lost my passenger-side plug. My best effort to locate the part # has failed after looking at multiple diagrams for the front door and door component assemblies. Found multiple plugs and covers but none that fit this location.

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