SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (75 Viewers)

[Polecat]

is there a way that all doors unlock when i touch the driver handle?

currently only driver door opens- which is super annoying for the rest of the fam

On my 2018:

Setup button > Vehicle > Vehicle Customization > Door Lock Settings > Select Doors to Unlock > All Doors/Driver Door

 

[CactusHopper]

On my 2018:

Setup button > Vehicle > Vehicle Customization > Door Lock Settings > Select Doors to Unlock > All Doors/Driver Door

This is the way...

 

[AnyMal]

Anyone want to talk me out of spacers? Method is probably going to replace my wheels, but again i will be stuck in 17s which I don't really want.

So, im planning on running two setups, a street, and an off road. Because eventually I will leave pavement, and my warranty exprires this month.
Both setups will be heavier than my current fitment, but in a better +35 offset.
Both setups will be around 33" tires, since Im not dealing with incorrect gauges and suboptimal gearing.
The OEM 20s will need 1" spacers and another set of tires ($2000). Im kind of done spending money on this truck but I did sign up for a project soooo, are spacers going to fail on me? What are the actual odds? Im happy to not spend the money, I've already overspent and would rather just put it into another vehicle.
Also, I really hate that the TPMS switch is gone from the 100 series. That would make this a lot easier of a decision.

 

[isthatalexus]

is there a way that all doors unlock when i touch the driver handle?

currently only driver door opens- which is super annoying for the rest of the fam

When I'm solo, I touch the driver door handle. When approaching with family, I grab one of the rear handles, and they all 'clunck' open. Did not try to change in TS because it's not a bad security feature when running around more post-apocalyptic areas.

 

[Heckraiser]

Anyone want to talk me out of spacers? Method is probably going to replace my wheels, but again i will be stuck in 17s which I don't really want.

So, im planning on running two setups, a street, and an off road. Because eventually I will leave pavement, and my warranty exprires this month.
Both setups will be heavier than my current fitment, but in a better +35 offset.
Both setups will be around 33" tires, since Im not dealing with incorrect gauges and suboptimal gearing.
The OEM 20s will need 1" spacers and another set of tires ($2000). Im kind of done spending money on this truck but I did sign up for a project soooo, are spacers going to fail on me? What are the actual odds? Im happy to not spend the money, I've already overspent and would rather just put it into another vehicle.
Also, I really hate that the TPMS switch is gone from the 100 series. That would make this a lot easier of a decision.

I'm not sure I understand your wheel and tire conundrum, but I can attest that wheel spacers are very safe when installed correctly. I go the extra step of checking periodically (every few thousand miles) and they haven't lost torque yet. Install with blue locktite if you're really concerned. I've been in accidents/rollovers where the impact to the front wheel was severe enough to sever a strut at the shaft above the bushing.... the spidertrax spacers were fine and still in use to this day, as far as I'm aware.

 

[ryanCA]

When I'm solo, I touch the driver door handle. When approaching with family, I grab one of the rear handles, and they all 'clunck' open. Did not try to change in TS because it's not a bad security feature when running around more post-apocalyptic areas.

Makes sense. I need to get into a habit of touching a rear door for fam.

 

[TeCKis300]

Anyone want to talk me out of spacers? Method is probably going to replace my wheels, but again i will be stuck in 17s which I don't really want.

So, im planning on running two setups, a street, and an off road. Because eventually I will leave pavement, and my warranty exprires this month.
Both setups will be heavier than my current fitment, but in a better +35 offset.
Both setups will be around 33" tires, since Im not dealing with incorrect gauges and suboptimal gearing.
The OEM 20s will need 1" spacers and another set of tires ($2000). Im kind of done spending money on this truck but I did sign up for a project soooo, are spacers going to fail on me? What are the actual odds? Im happy to not spend the money, I've already overspent and would rather just put it into another vehicle.
Also, I really hate that the TPMS switch is gone from the 100 series. That would make this a lot easier of a decision.

Wasn't tracking why Method is replacing your wheels but sure seems like an opportunity to sell as new if you're not happy? I'd agree that 18" wheels walk a better balance, especially if a single set can serve both needs?

Personally, wheel spacers may not be ideal, but it's a reality. The risks and issues with it has always been process and end user related. Rather than any fundamental fault in application. With your attention to detail, I think you'll be just fine. Torque once, go 50-100miles to allow the hardware to take a set, torque again but apply locktite in the second application, and you're golden. Shoot for a torque range ~10-20% higher wouldn't be a bad idea either on account of the higher wheel loads due to offset and size.

 

[AnyMal]

I'm not sure I understand your wheel and tire conundrum, but I can attest that wheel spacers are very safe when installed correctly. I go the extra step of checking periodically (every few thousand miles) and they haven't lost torque yet. Install with blue locktite if you're really concerned. I've been in accidents/rollovers where the impact to the front wheel was severe enough to sever a strut at the shaft above the bushing.... the spidertrax spacers were fine and still in use to this day, as far as I'm aware.

Thanks! Yeah, this is def what I want to hear. Love me a good opinion and even more so a good annecdote.
Both severely underrated in 2023.
Long story short on the wheel is I have at least 1 wheel out of 5 that is either defective or damaged and they will warranty a set since its out of production. This is probably due to the fact that they cant decide wether its a hub centric wheel or not (ive seen both on their documentation). Either way, chinese ass wheels, good customer service.

The OEM setup is here since i got 4 for dirt cheap used and i had wanted SL Ps on 20s (for street cred) since moving bc the city of H has extremely harsh roads (like third world quality). I am leaning heavily on Yoko G015s, which i like and have exp with, or the new michelins linked earlier today.

Wasn't tracking why Method is replacing your wheels but sure seems like an opportunity to sell as new if you're not happy? I'd agree that 18" wheels walk a better balance, especially if a single set can serve both needs?

Personally, wheel spacers may not be ideal, but it's a reality. The risks and issues with it has always been process and end user related. Rather than any fundamental fault in application. With your attention to detail, I think you'll be just fine. Torque once, go 50-100miles to allow the hardware to take a set, torque again but apply locktite in the second application, and you're golden. Shoot for a torque range ~10-20% higher wouldn't be a bad idea either on account of the higher wheel loads due to offset and size.

Yep, the Methods are giving me a front end off balance on rotations, something that I had come up a while ago, and played around with by leaving wheels where they were. This trial last rotation confirmed it and I reached out again to get them swapped. Methods parts list that i had saved over the course of 3 years go from showing them as not hub-centric to being so in later revisions.
Im pretty sure despite hub pilot flange dims to be more or less correct (wider than ideal), that at least 1 wheel isn’t true.
I just drive so few miles that its taken that long for me to really be sure, given im always messing around with things myself.

I would have definitely sold them but outside of mud, i dont think theres much demand for 17s. And i’m generally not an a****** so I dont want to sell anyone a bad set (maybe some mud members though LOL).
I think you are right though that 18s are the better choice. There is, at least in my case, way too little brake ventilation with the 17s.
It is choking things up, and when I really beat on it, i can tell the thermal fade is higher than what it should be.

Definitely already adding torque on my wheels as I swear i had read it years ago, and I commented on MUD about it a couple times last year or two. Going from a flat washer-ed nut to a 60 degree cone, I do believe we should all be torquing to at least around 117ish.
This is good advice for everyone to follow really. And the studs take much more using steel wheels per FSM (around 150 lb-ft).


Either way, im sad that my 80 lb. fitment will be gone, but I need the 18s, and prefer the +35 offset, which I didnt have to choose from when I purchased my setup in 2020. If those damn 21s weren’t so s***e none of this would have been the case.

 

[thezbone]

I would have definitely sold them but outside of mud, i dont think theres much demand for 17s. And i’m generally not an a****** so I dont want to sell anyone a bad set (maybe some mud members though LOL).

I think what he's getting at is to sell off the replacement wheels from Method, and pickup wheels that fit your needs better - NOT suggesting you sell someone a faulty set of wheels.

 

[LC2011]

I really appreciate all the information that's been shared on this forum - has helped me in many ways troubleshot and fix. Here's my question. My LC seems to feel "jumpy" in the early gears shifting from 1st to 2nd to 3rd gear. When I press on the gas (I don't floor it) the RPMs jump to 2500-3000 range pretty quickly. It shifts more smoothly when I lightly ease the acceleration (more lightly than what seems natural).

Additionally, when I go down hill, the RPMs jump again, making me think it's just slower to shift from second to third gear (going from 25 mph to around 35 mph).

Any ideas for what's causing this?

 

[grinchy]

I really appreciate all the information that's been shared on this forum - has helped me in many ways troubleshot and fix. Here's my question. My LC seems to feel "jumpy" in the early gears shifting from 1st to 2nd to 3rd gear. When I press on the gas (I don't floor it) the RPMs jump to 2500-3000 range pretty quickly. It shifts more smoothly when I lightly ease the acceleration (more lightly than what seems natural).

Additionally, when I go down hill, the RPMs jump again, making me think it's just slower to shift from second to third gear (going from 25 mph to around 35 mph).

Any ideas for what's causing this?

sounds a lot like a slipping transmission could be something to look at. Maybe do a transmission fluid exchange?

 

[linuxgod]

I really appreciate all the information that's been shared on this forum - has helped me in many ways troubleshot and fix. Here's my question. My LC seems to feel "jumpy" in the early gears shifting from 1st to 2nd to 3rd gear. When I press on the gas (I don't floor it) the RPMs jump to 2500-3000 range pretty quickly. It shifts more smoothly when I lightly ease the acceleration (more lightly than what seems natural).

Additionally, when I go down hill, the RPMs jump again, making me think it's just slower to shift from second to third gear (going from 25 mph to around 35 mph).

Any ideas for what's causing this?

Any recent other changes to your vehicle?

My 1-2 shift is pretty stiff and has always been as far as I can recall. Same thing 2-1, it's not GM slushbox smooth, though I'm personally OK with it. I think that's a bit by design as there's a performance/comfort/wear trade off. Never noticed anything harshness or slipping 2-3 or 3-2 though I did notice the downshifts more after my new BP51 shocks were installed. I think I may need to re-run the vehicle neutral leveling procedure whatever it's called in Techstream as I'm sure my nose is slightly higher and I'm wondering if the truck thinks I'm loaded down and is trying to compensate for the extra weight by being more aggressive with the downshifts.

What's your mileage? Could be some slippage going on depending on age. Could be a little low on fluid, you might want to do the warm up and fluid level check procedure. If you've never flushed the fluid you might want to do a single drain/fill on the pan.

Do you get any sort of clunk/knock from the 1-2 or 2-3 shift? I started getting something recently and I'm thinking it might be a worn U-joint. RPMs don't rev up typically unless I'm flooring it off the line or have the trailer attached so I don't initially think my issue is the same as yours.

 

[LC2011]

Any recent other changes to your vehicle?

My 1-2 shift is pretty stiff and has always been as far as I can recall. Same thing 2-1, it's not GM slushbox smooth, though I'm personally OK with it. I think that's a bit by design as there's a performance/comfort/wear trade off. Never noticed anything harshness or slipping 2-3 or 3-2 though I did notice the downshifts more after my new BP51 shocks were installed. I think I may need to re-run the vehicle neutral leveling procedure whatever it's called in Techstream as I'm sure my nose is slightly higher and I'm wondering if the truck thinks I'm loaded down and is trying to compensate for the extra weight by being more aggressive with the downshifts.

What's your mileage? Could be some slippage going on depending on age. Could be a little low on fluid, you might want to do the warm up and fluid level check procedure. If you've never flushed the fluid you might want to do a single drain/fill on the pan.

Do you get any sort of clunk/knock from the 1-2 or 2-3 shift? I started getting something recently and I'm thinking it might be a worn U-joint. RPMs don't rev up typically unless I'm flooring it off the line or have the trailer attached so I don't initially think my issue is the same as yours.

No other major changes to the vehicle (no mods). Oil change 3k miles ago. Replaced brakes/rotors recently.

- Vehicle is all stock 94,000 miles (2011).
- no clunking/knocking that I can tell

 

[linuxgod]

A/T test procedure from the FSM. There are lots of other tests but I think this one (particularly the shift time lag) is the most relevant to you

Quite a few tests depending on the specific scenario, let me know if there's a specific section you'd like docs from...

 

[Polecat]

Is there any benefit to keeping the crossmember and foam I pulled out of my front bumper when I installed the Trail Tailor hidden winch mount? I’m clearing out garage space for other projects and would like to get rid of them if not.

 

[bloc]

Is there any benefit to keeping the crossmember and foam I pulled out of my front bumper when I installed the Trail Tailor hidden winch mount? I’m clearing out garage space for other projects and would like to get rid of them if not.

The obvious use is if you’ll ever remove the winch.

Over the years I’ve learned to keep stuff like that as more than a couple times I have had to source parts that I removed from my vehicle and tossed..

 

[customcruiser]

anyone upgraded 08 side mirror covers to ones with turn signal in them?

my passenger side cover is busted and held on with tape and screws - looking for a new one and found these (but unavailable) Amazon product ASIN B0BWH4Z4V9 says for 08-19 but all other covers I find are for 08-11 2xABS WHITE LH RH Side Mirror Cover With LED For Toyota Land Cruiser LC200 08-11 | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/333668001929


Thanks for any help

 

[RTaylor]

Replying to myself for posterity as well as notes for future lucky souls.

1. The Falken Wildpeak RT 01 tires comes with a road hazard warranty from the manufacturer. Falken will replace your tire within 2 years and 2/32" of treadwear.
2. Falken apparently will only do the above if the tire is actually punctured. A gash in the sidewall or a screw or nail which doesn't completely penetrate the tire isn't covered apparently.

Discount Tire pulled the screw. It was 1/2" embedded, maybe a tad less. No air leakage in the 2.5 weeks since I noticed the screw and none when they removed it. DT wouldn't replace the tire under warranty unless it was leaking air. I argued a bit with the guy given how I will run close to max PSI when towing as well as airing down when offroad. He basically said "it came right out so it wasn't in the belt, the tire is thicker than the screw was embedded, don't worry about it".

Part of me wishes I'd driven on that tire until the screw was fully embedded and the tire was leaking. For the moment I'm leaving the tire fully inflated as my spare...

I've pulled the screw and driven on.. a lot of times. We routinely do this with fire apparatus tires, at the direction of our maintenance shop. We even know by now to use soapy water to determine whether it's leaking before notifying them of a nail/screw in the tire, because we can anticipate what their instructions will be based on that result.

Plus, those of us that off-road often cut tires that deep with rocks and drive many more tens of thousands of miles.

I really do think that tire is fine.

I’ve recently tried this option. So far, so good.

Amazon product ASIN B09K67YY61

 

[bloc]

I’ve recently tried this option. So far, so good.

Amazon product ASIN B09K67YY61

If I have an actual puncture I prefer to stick to the gooey rope strip things that I've used with 100% success for a couple decades. In my head at least, these don't disturb the cords as much as the metal core of those rubber screws from the repeated impacts with the road.

 

[gasman4u]

Is there a specific thread/video/info link for transmission fluid replacement for 2016+ (MY 2021 specifically)? I know earlier ones had a thermostat bypass need (paperclip hack), but thought the later models didn't have this. TIA.