prwillard2
SILVER Star
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (36 Viewers)
- Thread starter JamesC
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prwillard2
SILVER Star
Looks like the paint on a bass boat. Bummer.
Here's to hoping the dealer/insurance company do the right thing and get you taken care of.
Here's to hoping the dealer/insurance company do the right thing and get you taken care of.
prwillard2
SILVER Star
I'm already preparing for what I'm sure will be a 15 round title fight. Progressive was horrible to work with previously, trying to use recycled and non OEM parts.
The collision center manager has said service is trying to determine if this was caused by the collision personnel repairing my vehicle.
Right now though they're doing the Spider-Man meme pointing at each other for who should have to cover this issue.
Yeah that looks pretty bad. Makes me suspect they drove it into the shop without bypassing the radiator cooler. Even then that seems like a lot of smegma for what would presumably be ~60 seconds.
Even if they did a powerflush I can't imagine it causing this issue.
Even if they did a powerflush I can't imagine it causing this issue.
prwillard2
SILVER Star
What exactly is a "powerflush"?
Some shops use a machine pump to flush trans fluid. It’s basically a pressurized enema and can lead to problems, particularly in higher mileage transmissions. Using the transmissions own pump to replace fluid is generally a safer route.
What a mess. That transmission is toast. This is clearly a lack of lubricant issue, and whoever serviced the transmission is at fault. I honestly doubt it was a Toyota manufacture defect, as it’s really unheard of for these rigs, BUT it could be a bad Covid batch of parts.
Do you know what non OEM parts were used?
Here’s to hoping you get made whole in this ordeal.
Do you know what non OEM parts were used?
Here’s to hoping you get made whole in this ordeal.
prwillard2
SILVER Star
Zero non OEM parts used in the rebuild of my vehicle (which only included the transmission oil cooler). My truck was built 2/2021 so right during Covid.
My front parking sensors frequently report obstacles when none are there (mostly the front-left / Aussie passenger side) - they've been transferred into my bull bar by the previous owner (probably by a farmhand - seems a shoddy job, with other stuff like the light washers just left dangling) ... anyone know what might be the cause of the constant wrong sensing?
Mine have done that a few times in my rear bumper, if I've driven in a heavy rain. I just turn the system off for a few days so it can dry out, then all is well. I installed them myself, had to extend the harness (RLC bumper) which I was extremely careful to solder and heatshrink everything. The guy that installed the bumper removed the sensors from the old bumper cover, he gave them to me in a box, so maybe one has a hairline crack in it.
bloc
SILVER Star
There are a lot of reasons but low oil pressure is a major one.
Letting it idle for an hour once in a blue moon won’t kill the engine. But doing it frequently is bad, even if you drive it hard afterward.
Thanks for the info.
And this question just became more than just theoretical for me.
I was charging lipo battery via two wires connected to my Aux battery and noticed smoke coming out of the fuse between my starter battery and the Aux battery.
And the wire running off of the main to the Aux, as seen in the photo, was very hot.
It’s a 250A fuse and I was only charging at 500W. (45A or so)
I can no longer get the cover off of the blue-sea cover to the fuse to check if it’s blown, but I presume not since the BCDC 1250 is still operating in mode A.
Anybody have thoughts on what is going on?
(I’m camping in Utah so would appreciate any input)
LvCruiserNewb
SILVER Star
Any of you that have done work under the driver side inboard switch panel know how to get it to stay in place? Dealer was inside it to replace stuff for my AC servo motor issues and since it came back the panel won't stay in place. Is it just press fit? I press it in but it never locks. Keeps popping out. If it's not an easy fix I guess I'll take it back to them and complain. Are there any clips Inside that I can't see besides the 2 on the top that are visible in the picture?
How big is the wire between the Aux and the starting battery? I assume the BCDC is in that circuit.
Personally I would have no qualms to idle for 1 hr. Or many hours. Fleet vehicles do it all the time and OEMs validate for this. Caveat that you aren't doing this day in day out, yet oiling IMO for passenger vehicles is not the concern.
To your second question, are you idling the car while charging? That would be important as drawing 45 amps without alternator support would be hell on the starting battery. A lot of voltage sag would lead to much higher than 45 amps.
If you are idling, than you'll want to check for resistance in the wire circuit. Are all the contacts clean and leads tightened down?
If this circuit is only feeding the BCDC, you'll want to fuse with something more reasonable, possibly ~80A.
bloc
SILVER Star
Many people avoid fleet vehicles for that reason alone. Plus the gas ones are rarely driven to the kind of chassis mileage most of us expect out of ours
I think you may need to loosen the airbag and loosen the screws holding the bottom edge down then reinstall it properly. While you are at it make sure there isn’t something behind it preventing the panel sitting flush.
But yes it does just pop into the slots.
I think you may need to loosen the airbag and loosen the screws holding the bottom edge down then reinstall it properly. While you are at it make sure there isn’t something behind it preventing the panel sitting flush.
But yes it does just pop into the slots.
The right wires are very important - like - burn-your-car-to-the-ground important: 12 Volt Wiring: Wire Gauge to Amps – Offroaders.com provides information and entertainment to 4×4 enthusiasts worldwide - https://www.offroaders.com/technical/12-volt-wiring-tech-gauge-to-amps/
The right fuse is even more important - 250A fuse on a 50A device is vastly too much - you probably need 80A or so (check the manual - my 60A charger manual specified a 100A fuse - and it blew the 80A fuse I tried first)... but that doesn't solve the problem that it looks like your wires are way too thin for the current.
My 60-amp DCDC charger wires (one for negative, one for positive) are *each* as thick as my thumb.
