SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (7 Viewers)

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@dubyahard - I wouldn’t have the tire touching the panhard as that needs to move as your suspension cycles.

@grinchy I’m not sure if there is a lower limit on the TPMS but if you reset the TPMS by holding the button under the dash it should reset the default pressures to whatever your tires currently are and then only light up when your pressure drops 20 or 25% below that (I can’t recall which).
There is a lower limit on the sensor. I forget the number (somewhere between 25-30psi), but i do believe it does not go low enough for <20psi to be the standard running pressure.
 
The plastic piece adjacent to the sun roof, in what I would call the roof rail track has recently popped up a bit. Anyone know of a common use adhesive to secure it back flush, and/or another way to fix it?

TIA.

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Following here. I have same issue on my passenger side. I tried some of the 3M double sided tape for reattaching emblems and spoilers. It did not hold, but i may have not done a good enough job of cleaning up the area and securing it while the tape set up. I have not tried removing the trim piece to gain better access for re-sticking the little pad that has come off the drip seam.
 
The plastic piece adjacent to the sun roof, in what I would call the roof rail track has recently popped up a bit. Anyone know of a common use adhesive to secure it back flush, and/or another way to fix it?

TIA.

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7556160031 is the part you want. It’s a metal bracket with double sided tape. That moulding has plastic clips that snap into the metal bracket. Chances are your moulding plastic was bent wrong or that metal bracket is bent.
 
I used barge contact cement. The first time it didn’t hold, the second with more cement and more precure, it did. Kept pressure on it overnight for the bond using blue tape
 
There is a metal clip under there, and it might snap back in, otherwise, you are basically glueing the end down. I've seen people use windshield mastic since it was handy on a windshield replacement. Last time I used an adhesive called E-6000 and it has held for a couple of years so far. 3M 5200 would probably do the trick and it stays pliable, so may be easier to get off if/when you need to do a windshield replacement.

Ditto on the blue painters tape. I used it to hold the trim in place for a day or so until I was confident the adhesive had cured.
 
There is a metal clip under there, and it might snap back in, otherwise, you are basically glueing the end down. I've seen people use windshield mastic since it was handy on a windshield replacement. Last time I used an adhesive called E-6000 and it has held for a couple of years so far. 3M 5200 would probably do the trick and it stays pliable, so may be easier to get off if/when you need to do a windshield replacement.

Ditto on the blue painters tape. I used it to hold the trim in place for a day or so until I was confident the adhesive had cured.

Funny thing is, I had the windshield replaced literally last week. Would this be a result of that? I'll happily order the clips and see if the windshield shop can get them re-secured.
 
Find a cheap used smaller tire and put that under the truck for now. For the record I think even up to 3% difference is considered totally fine to run normally. You can fit at least 285/70r18 under the truck. If you shred a tire in Moab use that to get you off the trail and then plan to go to a local tire shop at the end of the day and buy a new correctly sized tire. At 10 mph or less for the day the mismatched spare won’t cause any more harm than all the turning you do at low speed anyway. Where it generates a lot of heat is a high speed, so keep it slow once you’re done and be prepared to replace it same day at whatever the local tire shop charges.

The above it what I would do if I had 35s and no rear bumper.
This. Go with the undersized spare.

Although you won't generate any extra heat with a Torsen diff at any normal speeds. (nor from the open diffs in the axles)
You would be able to drive at highway speeds to a tire shop.

The following is on Torsen's website:

Ed,

Thanks for contacting Torsen. Our products have been used in vehicles that have had a mini-spare tire that was as much as a 25% difference in diameter smaller than the main tire. If kept to the operational restrictions (speed and distance), this falls within what the differential can handle. In the case of a tire that’s only about a ¼” difference in size, it is a relative non-issue – for the Torsen differential.
 
Funny thing is, I had the windshield replaced literally last week. Would this be a result of that? I'll happily order the clips and see if the windshield shop can get them re-secured.
If you just had the windshield replaced, then they definitely pulled that piece. Toyota says you should replace that piece and all the clips if you do a new windshield, but most installers, unless instructed, will not do that. They will just reuse the parts. Check where the piece has popped up and see if the "pad" that is glued to the drip channel is still attached to the truck or if it has pulled up. If the pad is still attached to the truck (best case), then i would try to re-insert the molding into the clip. If the pad has come up and is still attached to the molding, then you will need to try to find an adhesive to restick the pad to the drip channel.

The part listed above (7556160031) is the pad. Here's what it looks like. It's probably still there, you just need to see if the molding came out of the pad, or if the pad came unstuck from the roof.
 
If you just had the windshield replaced, then they definitely pulled that piece. Toyota says you should replace that piece and all the clips if you do a new windshield, but most installers, unless instructed, will not do that. They will just reuse the parts. Check where the piece has popped up and see if the "pad" that is glued to the drip channel is still attached to the truck or if it has pulled up. If the pad is still attached to the truck (best case), then i would try to re-insert the molding into the clip. If the pad has come up and is still attached to the molding, then you will need to try to find an adhesive to restick the pad to the drip channel.

The part listed above (7556160031) is the pad. Here's what it looks like. It's probably still there, you just need to see if the molding came out of the pad, or if the pad came unstuck from the roof.
Anyone have the part number for the black plastic part that covers the channel?
 
That looks like a perfect way to create a really annoying squeak.
Possibly, but even moving to a smaller spare, like a 295/70R18, it'd still rub. The OEM spare is 32" and obviously doesn't touch. Maybe I just keep what I have and not worry.
 
Anyone have the part number for the black plastic part that covers the channel?
Here is a link to all of the parts:


Note there are bunch of white plastic clips that should be replaced/may get damaged upon removal.
Looks like those were the same parts i have in my notes. I'll include them here in case that link fails. There are different parts for different years, but i think they may just be supersessions.

Windshield PartsPart #Qty
Windshield Moulding (R)75533-60082
1​
Windshield Moulding (L)75534-60072
1​
Windshield Moulding (Top)75531-60080
1​
Windshield Moulding Pad75548-60021
8​
Windshield Rivet75547-51021
8​
Windshield Roof Pad75561-60031
2​
 
Possibly, but even moving to a smaller spare, like a 295/70R18, it'd still rub. The OEM spare is 32" and obviously doesn't touch. Maybe I just keep what I have and not worry.
FWIW my 295/70/18 did not rub the panhard. I had literally 1-2mm to spare. I assume this would depend on which 295 you pick as some run bigger etc.
 
Looks like those were the same parts i have in my notes. I'll include them here in case that link fails. There are different parts for different years, but i think they may just be supersessions.

Windshield PartsPart #Qty
Windshield Moulding (R)75533-60082
1​
Windshield Moulding (L)75534-60072
1​
Windshield Moulding (Top)75531-60080
1​
Windshield Moulding Pad75548-60021
8​
Windshield Rivet75547-51021
8​
Windshield Roof Pad75561-60031
2​
I didn't replace the rivets (the white plastic clips come off them pretty easily without damaging the rivet), and I didn't need to replace the clips that were attached to the roof. I think that top moulding is the rubber that you'd replace if you were had a windshield out, and isn't needed to replace the side trim.
 
Looks like those were the same parts i have in my notes. I'll include them here in case that link fails. There are different parts for different years, but i think they may just be supersessions.

Windshield PartsPart #Qty
Windshield Moulding (R)75533-60082
1​
Windshield Moulding (L)75534-60072
1​
Windshield Moulding (Top)75531-60080
1​
Windshield Moulding Pad75548-60021
8​
Windshield Rivet75547-51021
8​
Windshield Roof Pad75561-60031
2​
bookmarked, about to get my third windshield installed 🤦‍♂️
 
FWIW my 295/70/18 did not rub the panhard. I had literally 1-2mm to spare. I assume this would depend on which 295 you pick as some run bigger etc.
May just get the actual size, a used one perhaps, and deflate and ratchet strap it where the panhard is.
 
bookmarked, about to get my third windshield installed 🤦‍♂️
I think the parts about half the price on PartSouq in this case...so may look that route if you have some time.

Here's the link to the LX570 page. Also, if it were me, I'd do some research on whether you need the top molding.
 
There is a metal clip under there, and it might snap back in, otherwise, you are basically glueing the end down. I've seen people use windshield mastic since it was handy on a windshield replacement. Last time I used an adhesive called E-6000 and it has held for a couple of years so far. 3M 5200 would probably do the trick and it stays pliable, so may be easier to get off if/when you need to do a windshield replacement.
I believe the trim is designed to allow water to flow under in - Beware of gluing/sealing too well, as you might create a dam and allow water to backup in the roof gutters.
 
I believe the trim is designed to allow water to flow under in - Beware of gluing/sealing too well, as you might create a dam and allow water to backup in the roof gutters.
It only takes a small pencil eraser diameter bit of adhesive to hold it down.
 

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