SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day

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This. Go with the undersized spare.

Although you won't generate any extra heat with a Torsen diff at any normal speeds. (nor from the open diffs in the axles)
You would be able to drive at highway speeds to a tire shop.

The following is on Torsen's website:

Ed,

Thanks for contacting Torsen. Our products have been used in vehicles that have had a mini-spare tire that was as much as a 25% difference in diameter smaller than the main tire. If kept to the operational restrictions (speed and distance), this falls within what the differential can handle. In the case of a tire that’s only about a ¼” difference in size, it is a relative non-issue – for the Torsen differential.

This is excellent feedback right from the horses mouth. Thank you.

Agreed heat is the question, highly correlated with speed. The greater the difference, the less I'd be inclined to hold normal highway speeds, but anything under 3-5% is of no concern. The torsen is at the center diff, which further averages differences across the axle, for rotational differences at each tire.

In regards to matching spare - I think ideally we'd all want a matching spare. I've had to use a narrower 275/65R20LT (specs 34.1"x11") spare to keep departure clearance. I think there's connotations with "spare", but the reality is that a 275/65R20LT spare is still a full performance tire and could be used indefinitely. Just doesn't match my 35x12.5s, but are within 1% of rotational difference.
 
This is excellent feedback right from the horses mouth. Thank you.

Agreed heat is the question, highly correlated with speed. The greater the difference, the less I'd be inclined to hold normal highway speeds, but anything under 3-5% is of no concern. The torsen is at the center diff, which further averages differences across the axle, for rotational differences at each tire.

In regards to matching spare - I think ideally we'd all want a matching spare. I've had to use a narrower 275/65R20LT (specs 34.1"x11") spare to keep departure clearance. I think there's connotations with "spare", but the reality is that a 275/65R20LT spare is still a full performance tire and could be used indefinitely. Just doesn't match my 35x12.5s, but are within 1% of rotational difference.
I put a 245/75r18 on the original spare rim. 32.5h x 9.6w.
Gained back the inch of departure clearance I lost after LRA 12.5 tank install.

Still running the original tires, so my spare is 1 inch bigger in diameter than the other 4.
That will change when I get new tires.

(edited. added italicized text)
 
Possibly, but even moving to a smaller spare, like a 295/70R18, it'd still rub. The OEM spare is 32" and obviously doesn't touch. Maybe I just keep what I have and not worry.
285/70R18 and 285/75R17 will fit (33.8) without touching the panhard rod
 
The plastic piece adjacent to the sun roof, in what I would call the roof rail track has recently popped up a bit. Anyone know of a common use adhesive to secure it back flush, and/or another way to fix it?

TIA.

View attachment 3095588

View attachment 3095589
I used this to glue the clip back on: 3M Black Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive, 08008, 5 fl oz, 1 Per Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063X38M/?tag=ihco-20


IIRC I scraped the old adhesive off the clip/body and then glued it down with a glob of that stuff. It's held for ~3 years so far.

Nite that the clip "base" hasn't budged, but the trim piece could be tighter to the clip (it rattles sometimes)
 
More of an observation than a SQOD. The design of the plastic cover on the rear window wiper has to be one on the dumbest things I have ever seen.
 
More of an observation than a SQOD. The design of the plastic cover on the rear window wiper has to be one on the dumbest things I have ever seen.

Au contraire - I think it's elegant (once one understands how to use it ;) ).
 
I was finally going to create a build thread and, for the life of me, I can't see how to create the correct BUILD prefix. Only option I see is some Tech prefix called "WDYD". I clearly am not not smart enough to be on forums :rolleyes:
 
I was finally going to create a build thread and, for the life of me, I can't see how to create the correct BUILD prefix. Only option I see is some Tech prefix called "WDYD". I clearly am not not smart enough to be on forums :rolleyes:
I think a mod does that
 
I think a mod does that
oh, so I just create the thread and a mod then comes behind me and turns it into a "Build" thread?
 
Does anyone know where the annoying beeper is located that sounds off when the ligtgate is opened?

I've had remote in one hand and ear against the truck, listening all over, and can't figure out where it is. As best I can tell, it is underneath somewhere, seemingly above the muffler, but I sure can't find it. It seems loudest when at a campground and I need some thing in the back late at night...

Thanks for any suggestions!
 
Does anyone know where the annoying beeper is located that sounds off when the ligtgate is opened?

I've had remote in one hand and ear against the truck, listening all over, and can't figure out where it is. As best I can tell, it is underneath somewhere, seemingly above the muffler, but I sure can't find it. It seems loudest when at a campground and I need some thing in the back late at night...

Thanks for any suggestions!
you can turn off the power lift gate and do it by hand. Switch is up by the steering wheel. no beeper in manual mode. Still get the close beeper on the tailgate section when it puts the electronic lock on that though.
 
Does anyone know where the annoying beeper is located that sounds off when the ligtgate is opened?

I've had remote in one hand and ear against the truck, listening all over, and can't figure out where it is. As best I can tell, it is underneath somewhere, seemingly above the muffler, but I sure can't find it. It seems loudest when at a campground and I need some thing in the back late at night...

Thanks for any suggestions!

This thread has pictures of where it is. I need to get around to disconnecting mine. Right now I have it in the manual mode.
 
over the last few days when I lock it with the fob or the handle it does not blink or move the mirrors in, still locks, just not lights or mirrors.

any thoughts on what might be going on?
Finally figured this out, I noticed that the passenger door lock was not locking (actuator) so I locked it manually and it started working again. Then noticed the car was actually trying to tell me something because when I would come back to the car and it would unlock automatically and the lights flashed 10-12 times instead of the usual 2 times to say the door was not unlocking.
 
Changing the oil today I finally dropped the plates to do a quick sand and paint. What is the use of this foam? If blocks two holes on the plate where it's starting to show rust. Are these baffles that sit inside the plates for sound deadening? I might ditch them too.

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2961F0FF-E488-4DEB-88D7-A8F323A1A712.webp
 
honest sqod: Isn't Amsoil like bitcoin, a huge ponzi scheme?
in your opinion, how does it compare to Royal purple or mobile1?
 
I'll switch to Mobil one soon for sure.
 
honest sqod: Isn't Amsoil like bitcoin, a huge ponzi scheme?
in your opinion, how does it compare to Royal purple or mobile1?
I wouldn't call it a ponzi scheme, more of a pyramid scheme like Amway or Cutco knives. But, I do use it because I have "preferred customer" status, and I can click a few clicks and it's on my front porch a few days later. I like the gallon jugs.
 
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