SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (13 Viewers)
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Hi all, I am planning to take the LC200 on extended travel over the next 6 months. Not necessarily overland just will be living nomadically and this will be the only vehicle we own. We bought a 2019 CPO with 42k miles. I was wondering what if any preventative maintenance we should do...We don’t plan to move to a state where they use salt on the roads. Couple Qs on that front:
— I want to schedule 45k mile service. Is there anything else I should get done? Vehicle is up to date on recalls IE fuel pump
— When do folks replace brake pads and rotors? The braking feels a little spongy. Looking at the service history...neither was ever replaced..Any advice on this front?
— Aside from locking glove box, anything else to watch out for when taking it to a dealer?
— I want to schedule 45k mile service. Is there anything else I should get done? Vehicle is up to date on recalls IE fuel pump
— When do folks replace brake pads and rotors? The braking feels a little spongy. Looking at the service history...neither was ever replaced..Any advice on this front?
— Aside from locking glove box, anything else to watch out for when taking it to a dealer?
Brake pad wear depends mostly on how you drive and what you drive and where you drive. A lot of stop n go traffic is bad. Riding your brakes is bad (did you know your vehicle will start to decellerate as soon as you take your foot off the gas?). I've got 80,000 miles on my LC pads front and rear, but it looks like the LX pads with 30,000 miles will need to be replaced first. Still haven't figured that one out. Anyway, the dealer should be giving you a run down/checklist of everything that they do/replace and check when it's in there, including giving you the pad thicknesses and whether or not they are in need of replacement. The LC brake system is kind of squishy anyway, so it doesn't sound concerning to me.
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Looks like it. That’s the Tundra TRD Pro wheel, but supposed to be exactly the same.
Post in thread 'NEW Tundra TRD Pro forged BBS wheels'
NEW Tundra TRD Pro forged BBS wheels - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/new-tundra-trd-pro-forged-bbs-wheels.1040730/post-12305200
TheGrrrrr
GOLD Star
I replace my pads, rotors and upgraded to stainless steel braided line in an effort to deal with the additional weight (from mods) and reduce the squishiness... Very happy I did so, but I can't say it made the squishiness much better. Noticable, but less than I had hoped for. I went with the Powerstop Z36 kit.
PowerStop Z36 Brakes and Stop Tech/Centric SS Lines
I've read dozens, if not hundreds of posts about brakes in my research so far. I've seen many talked about, some more than others, but it seems like there is relatively little documentation of experiences over time. Anecdotal replies seem to be the norm. Based on my research I have...
forum.ih8mud.com
prwillard2
SILVER Star
Thank you! I was looking everywhere online for a picture of this exact thing.
The squishiness is the power brake booster, I think. I've noticed (in particular when towing) at low RPMs it doesn't boost as much as at higher RPMs (i.e. if I downshift) where the boost is much more linear (and grippy). The "squishiness" is particularly annoying when towing because the proportional trailer brake controllers will not apply enough trailer brakes at low RPM but at higher RPM they will lock up my trailer brakes, so I'm either constantly adjusting the amount of braking requested or I have to under-set the amount of braking force desired a bit. I have found if I always downshift when braking that the lower TBC setting is spot-on.I replace my pads, rotors and upgraded to stainless steel braided line in an effort to deal with the additional weight (from mods) and reduce the squishiness... Very happy I did so, but I can't say it made the squishiness much better. Noticable, but less than I had hoped for. I went with the Powerstop Z36 kit.
PowerStop Z36 Brakes and Stop Tech/Centric SS Lines
I've read dozens, if not hundreds of posts about brakes in my research so far. I've seen many talked about, some more than others, but it seems like there is relatively little documentation of experiences over time. Anecdotal replies seem to be the norm. Based on my research I have...
FWIW I've noticed this is a bit more pronounced with 4.88 gears, as there are more RPMs when you come to a stop and the truck downshifts, which make the trailer brakes touchier. I've actually been wondering recently if there's some sort of power brake booster adjustment that can be made to "fool" it into always applying a higher level of brake boost...
afgman786
SILVER Star
I've noticed the speed at which you transfer from throttle to brake can trick the booster, along with how quickly you apply pressure to the brake pedal. So if I can be a bit quick/aggressive on the initial press it has a good linear bite throughout. But that's not fun to play with when pulling a trailer
Could be that the engine RPMs haven't dropped yet, or it could be it's interpreting your quick brake application as higher pedal pressure, and then compensating. Apparently fluid pressure from the booster increases with pedal force. Note the pressures below are the pressure of fluid coming out of the bleeder screw, as best I can tell from the instructions and the diagram of the SST I found online. Other than brake pedal force I don't see anything in the FSM which explains why higher RPMs changes the brake booster pressure. Or maybe it doesn't but higher RPMs increase the voltage on the trailer brake circuit?
From the FSM:
I had to run out in the garage last night to get something and heard the LC making this noise. Sounds like a pump, loudest at the rear of the vehicle. It hadn't been driven for about 6-8 hours when this was going on. I feel like I saw a thread or post about something similar, but can't remember. Anyone who can tell me what it is?
afgman786
SILVER Star
Not sure what's actually making it feel that way but an observation I've noticed. I definitely agree with you about RPMs also feel like they make a difference with how the brakes actually work. When driving home from work time to time and stuck in traffic I get bored and start 2 footing. If I start getting on the brakes while RPMs are up and on the gas it has a better bite compared to when I'm not on the gas. I've even gotten back on the throttle to increase RPMs to see if it would do anything and sure felt like it made the brakes bite harder..
normal. EVAP self test:
Weird electric motor noise
Spent some time today conditioning the leather and after, sat on the tailgate and had a nice beer! Let it air out with all doors and tail open. After a few hours i closed all the doors and tailgate. Few more hours later I am in the garage and I hear a faint motor noise, like a neighbor is...
forum.ih8mud.com
Perfect, thank you!normal. EVAP self test:
Weird electric motor noise
Spent some time today conditioning the leather and after, sat on the tailgate and had a nice beer! Let it air out with all doors and tail open. After a few hours i closed all the doors and tailgate. Few more hours later I am in the garage and I hear a faint motor noise, like a neighbor is...
Hi all, is there a way to test if my pre collision and seat belt tensioner system is working? My Tesla beeps at me on a much more frequent basis if I’m getting too close to another vehicle. LC has once. I have the pre collision system set at MAX distance too.
I was also trying to trigger the seat belt tensions by braking hard in a parking lot, but didn’t feel anything.
I was also trying to trigger the seat belt tensions by braking hard in a parking lot, but didn’t feel anything.
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
This drove me NUTS until the good folks on this forum set me straight. I would have sworn it was signaling the mother ship.
There is no warning but when they pull, you know. I don’t know if a way to test them safely.
1world1love
SILVER Star
Agreed. We were driving on the interstate the other day and a car cut over in our lane and I tapped the brakes a little harder than intended. I think the combo of the braking and sensing the car in front of us triggered it and there was no mistaking it. You could hear the seatbelt motors and tightened enough that breathing was difficult for a second.
I've had mine engage twice now when a deer has run out in front of me. One time I barely had time to get off the gas, and it hooked up. WOW it got that truck whoa'd fast, and the seat belt YANKED me back in the seat.
terrapin
SILVER Star
Is a transmission drain and refill as simple as just that? In other words, do I just remove the drain plug and let it drain until it stops (approx 4 quarts) and then pump more back into the fill hole until it won't hold any more?
What about bypassing the thermostat or starting the engine and moving through the gears or anything else that I've read about?
I've searched the forum and found info on doing a full replacement, but I think the drain and refill will suffice for my needs. I fully understand that this just mixes fresh fluid with the old and is by no means a complete replacement.
I took it into the dealer last fall for a full system flush and they told me it would take about 9 quarts, although my reading said closer to 12. When I picked it up, they said they only used 5 quarts so I don't really trust what they did.
2010 LX with 128K miles and I do tow a 6000 lb Airstream on occasion.
What about bypassing the thermostat or starting the engine and moving through the gears or anything else that I've read about?
I've searched the forum and found info on doing a full replacement, but I think the drain and refill will suffice for my needs. I fully understand that this just mixes fresh fluid with the old and is by no means a complete replacement.
I took it into the dealer last fall for a full system flush and they told me it would take about 9 quarts, although my reading said closer to 12. When I picked it up, they said they only used 5 quarts so I don't really trust what they did.
2010 LX with 128K miles and I do tow a 6000 lb Airstream on occasion.
afgman786
SILVER Star
You do have to get the trans within a certain temp range for the drain and fill.. there are some caveats from what I've read others post up about doing on here.
