In the LX one of the wires in the 3rd row seat harness is a switched 12v, I'm planning to use that to power trigger a relay for any switched outputs I'm doing. Probably not too helpful since the LC doesn't have this harness...
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day
- Thread starter JamesC
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Interesting. I need to check with a meter. Mine seem like they are hot all the time. but maybe there is one that is switched. I wonder why there is a switched source there?
There's no need to split the switched line to multiple relays. Just run the main line (as thick a cable as you're comfortable running) and the switched line (this can be pretty thin as it will just trigger a relay on and off) to the back.
Connect the main power cable to a buss terminal to split it. One of the splits goes to the main power input on the relay. The other goes to a fuse block that serves your unswitched circuits. The main power output of the relay can go to a 2nd fuse block that serves your switched circuits.
The thin gauge wire goes to the trigger input on the relay.
The "not cutting" part is pretty easy. I used a vampire tap for that to handle switch illumination and would do the same here. It does puncture the insulation but you can remove it and just apply some electrical tape over the wiring in the future to undo it.
I have a 12-slot blue sea fuse block in the engine bay, though IIRC each slot has a 30A limit... which is probably fine for my purposes anyway but if not it sits directly behind a circuit breaker... though IIRC that is 100A which would be too much for a short on the longer run to the rear accessories.
I'm not sure about the relays. @TeCKis300 posted the following in another thread. I would assume I could run pin 87 to a second fuse block but I'm not clear on how I'd run it to multiple individual circuits without using multiple relays.
3rd row seats? What are those? LOL
Yeah, I guess it depends on what you are doing back there. you may not need 35 amps for many things. It also assumes you have SwitchPros, but you can always add a switching panel back there as well.
This is exactly what I was thinking. No need for multiple relays. Keep it simple for the switched stuff.
Yeah I thought about that, it just means 2 fuse blocks instead of 2 relays. I was hoping there was a creative way to do it with one relay and one block somehow. I don't think what I Was hoping is possible.
I'm not a huge fan of those vampire taps. One option could be to use a fuse tap as that does no harm to any of the wiring.
Pin 87 is a high current switched feed. Once you connect that to a second fuse block, all circuits on the fuse block become switched circuits - not need for more relays. Again, just make sure the relay you use can handle the current for all loads on the fuse block.
Dual 2.4A USB ports, eventual CB radio mount, 12V cig lighter socket for accessories, and cleaning up/moving the air bag air compressor wiring (which currently drops under the chassis). So maybe 30A if everything was fired up and full at once, but unlikely to use anywhere near that. And even that is <60 seconds since the air compressor is pretty quick and only used when hitching up.
No switchpros for me, just a battery.
If you have a single Low amperage line running from a switched source to the back, then that would provide the spark for a single relay which should be big enough to handle all of your switched outlets. At that point, you can have individual fused outlets coming off the main and opened by the relay. So you would have a single relay feeding a fuse block and all of your switched items off that block and non-switched of the main.
In the scenario above, you would use the SwitchPros as your relay, but the same idea applies.
If you aren't tied to a specific fuse block, there are options that can handle switched/unswitched circuits in a single block. Here's 1 example I found that might be a good option:
PC-8 - Eastern Beaver Inc
The PC-8 fuse box manufactured to the highest standards. 6 switched and 2 un-switched outputs. Compact size and high power capacity.
www.easternbeaver.com
It sounds like it was originally designed for motorcycle use, so it's compact.
Yeah, then I think your best option is a low amperage "tap-a-circuit" or reuse something existing in the back, run into a relay. Then run a nice big main directly from the battery. Once you have done all that, then you can put everything together in back. It is a pain to have two fuse blocks, but I think it would give you more flexibility in the long run.
Yeah just not sure what's available in the back on the LC that is switched. Worst case I'll tap under the dash and run it along with the main wiring, just hoping to avoid a long run...
Absolutely worth doing.
With AT’s ano sliders (in place of your side steps), you can do basically everything anyone here does off-road. Many mods are worth doing, but you do NOT need anything huge (like mine) or extreme at all.
If you were asking about essential wheeling mods, it would be…
1 -ATs
2 -Sliders
3 -Basic suspension upgrade (which doesn’t have to be expensive)
4- Another great basic thing is to have the ability to fill your tires in the field With some sort of compressor. -Because….it means you can air down in the field, ano massively benefit from a larger traction footprint, smoother ride, ano more float if you end up in soft stuff.
TheGrrrrr
GOLD Star
Isn't there a switched wire in the trailer wiring harness you could hit? I thought I remembered someone using it for something like this.
Yeah, I'm with you. I didn't do this specifically because I didn't want to make long runs inside. It might be easier to tap in one of the boxes in the engine compartment and run it outside and then up. One of my previous SQODs was about going up through the rear and apparently there are a couple of decent options.
The long run inside really isn’t too bad. If it’s fused at the battery, it‘s pretty safe.
I've replaced a lot of parts on vehicles but never shocks since I don't own a spring compressor. I need to pull me right front shock as it seems to be damaged with a fairly loud squeak coming from the lower uniball. My normal private mechanic is concerned about the pulling it due to the KDSS system, having never worked on a front suspension with one. From what I can see the KDSS system doesn't come into play at all and its the same as removing any coilover. Is there anything more to removing it due to the KDSS system? I'm not sure I'll convince him to try but it'll be a first step towards him or me doing it.