Thanks! Very much thats the case. Seems a lot of work to get access to? // I'm going to try a vacuum from outside the grille first
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (18 Viewers)
- Thread starter JamesC
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
bloc
SILVER Star
No stock filter, and no easy provision to add one that isn’t visible. You could put something behind the panel but would have to remove it to change the element.
I just don’t run my rear AC much to reduce contamination.
RoaringFork
SILVER Star
If the vacuum doesn’t work the rear side trim comes off easy enough imo, a few fasteners and clips.
Edit: the third row seat on that side will need to come out if still installed.
Last edited:
RoaringFork
SILVER Star
Like @bloc said, there is no filter. Though, as I understand it, the rear HVAC does not draw in fresh air from outside. Any contaminants would have to come from in the cabin through that grille in the trim. On the back of the grille, there are provisions to help keep things from being drawn into the fan(yellow circle in pic below), and the fan is mounted high in the duct. Aside from the stray leaf that made it to the fan, the intake duct was very clean.
My LX has about a 2-3" rake when in low position. Is this normal? If not, any way to correct it? I have a mom and mother-in-law who ride in the back fairly often and lower it would be better if the rear were lower with no rake.
You can do a sensor lowering in the rear if there is still adjustment left in the rear sensor bracket. If not, you can use the height offset utility in techstream.
It would also lower the rear position in N and H, fyi, and may not be ideal when carrying heavy loads or towing. But if it's primarily a road warrior and limo, that would be the perfect mod.
It would also lower the rear position in N and H, fyi, and may not be ideal when carrying heavy loads or towing. But if it's primarily a road warrior and limo, that would be the perfect mod.
Last edited:
If the rake in L is normal, I'll leave it alone. I'm mostly checking to see if there is a mechanical issue that is causing it. it's not important enough for me to dig that deep into modifying from stock.
Yep, leave it alone or consider getting your mom and mother in-law at arms length…
Odd observation here. I did my 200k oil change and noticed oil spotting on the driveway for the next two nights. Crawling underneath, it appears to be coming from the oil pan itself (pics below). I did barely overfill the oil.
3rd morning out and no drips on the driveway. Same dipstick reading.
I wish I had taken a pic before I wiped it. But it seems like it was coming from around the bolts where the pan mounts to the block. Maybe a gasket issue? Did my barely overfilling it cause it to leak for two nights and stop? Fumoto was fully closed and new filter and housing installed tightly before I began filling it with new oil. I don’t see how I couldn’t got a bunch of oil on the outside of the pan or on top of the skid plates. The drips for two nights were new oil, too.
Weird.
3rd morning out and no drips on the driveway. Same dipstick reading.
I wish I had taken a pic before I wiped it. But it seems like it was coming from around the bolts where the pan mounts to the block. Maybe a gasket issue? Did my barely overfilling it cause it to leak for two nights and stop? Fumoto was fully closed and new filter and housing installed tightly before I began filling it with new oil. I don’t see how I couldn’t got a bunch of oil on the outside of the pan or on top of the skid plates. The drips for two nights were new oil, too.
Weird.
32cls6speedmt
SILVER Star
So it's sealant, not a gasket? I searched for oil pan gasket in the 200 forum; didn't find anything
Yeah, Toyota FPIG. I had to replace mine when the Lexus dealership cross threaded my drain plug and ugga dugga'd the hell out of it.
I resealed (Toyota FIPG as mentioned) my lower oil pan because it was seeping. Pretty easy job really - just take your time cleaning things, and be careful torquing the pan bolts.
@LX Cruiser I can't see how you overfilling it had anything to do with the leak - just a coincidence IMO. Also, it would have to leak a LOT (like a whole lot....) for you to notice any change in level on the dipstick.
@LX Cruiser I can't see how you overfilling it had anything to do with the leak - just a coincidence IMO. Also, it would have to leak a LOT (like a whole lot....) for you to notice any change in level on the dipstick.
Dealerships, man.
Yeah, I think it's coincidence as well. Just weird that it did it for two nights only immediately following an oil change.
To me that suggests you spilled some up top and it worked its way down to the exterior of the oil pan over the course of a couple days. 
Yeah I thought the same thing at first, but nothing was wet above where the oil pan mounts to the block. I’m also extremely spill-averse when I change oil. I use a fumoto valve and another filter drain tool both with hoses straight into empty jugs, and I use the APSG funnel that screws on tightly when filling.To me that suggests you spilled some up top and it worked its way down to the exterior of the oil pan over the course of a couple days.
I’m going to order some FPIG and reseal the pan in 5k miles.
bloc
SILVER Star
Lower shock bolt 72 ft-lbf
Sway bar link nut 35 ft-lbf
Alignment shouldn't be necessary, but judge it on how it drives afterward.
I have four Method 703 wheels sitting in my garage just waiting for me to pull the trigger on four 285/70/17s. I'm not sure what my plan is for the spare. I believe the stock size of 285/60/18 will be a little too small to continue using as a spare. Do I purchase another 703 wheel and a fifth tire of the same size or is there a more economical solution I'm overlooking?
Yes, I would get a 5th wheel and tire for the spare, do a 5 tire rotation every oil change.
