Speaker Pod Install....the way I did it. (1 Viewer)

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Let's do it. I can't remember the name for the brown in an earlier (1990) 70 series but I am sure oak is close enough.

Fronts only (troopy).
You have to PM me for orders....I don't always check in on here.

I'll see if we have any spare tan ones.....I'm not sure we will. Nobody ever wants tan.....always grey.

Let me see what I can do.
 
Shipment has arrived :)

Anybody who has sent payment will probably have their pods next week......we’ll pack them up and get them out tomorrow or Monday.

I bought a lot so inventory is good. I have several sets of rear grey pods....lots of front grey.

Probably a set of tan fronts I can let go.

Pics coming tomorrow :)
 
For guys that have the door pockets on their door panels, let me know when you PM me.....your price will be lower as you will reuse your existing pockets.

6 sets of grey left
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I only brought in a couple sets of tan.....1 set left I think(need to check orders in the AM).

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2 sets of grey rear pods in this order.

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I liked the way c2dfj45 used the 80 series speaker grille. I did the same.
I bought the same speakers too.
I hacked away at the pod plastic to gain room for the speakers' rubber surround.
I started with the passenger side since that door card was half falling off anyway.
I was able to run the red&black paired speaker wire through the same grommets the power door wires go through.
I now see I have to relocate the orange/red power window relay that is in the driver's side door where the speaker needs to sit.
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Relocated the power window relay by buying correct connectors from Corsa Technic and making an extension cord. Put everything else back together.
Tons more volume and better range of frequencies now.
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PM sent
 
Relocated the power window relay by buying correct connectors from Corsa Technic and making an extension cord. Put everything else back together.
Tons more volume and better range of frequencies now.
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Those really do look great! And the extra water bottle spot doesn't hurt at all either.

It looks like you might have relocated the power module to inside of the vapor barrier? The only potential issue I see if so, is over time it, or the connectors could get corroded and begin to fail. You could even try sealing it up separately with some creative ziplock bagging and some tuck tape. :cheers:
 
I can’t remember what I did. I never take enough photos.
I think I cut and taped the sheet to get the relay on the inside.
 
We run into a lot of missing or damaged vapor barriers in the cars we work on.....somewhere I saw a guy using clear shower curtain material to make his own. It's a brilliant idea.....hang it on the door, trace where you want the barrier to go and then cut it out......the clear material lets you see exactly where you want it which is handy when you're either missing them or they're so torn apart it's hard to make a pattern off of them. The shower curtain material is pretty sturdy too so it's serviceable and it's available at most stores. I order cheap thin ones on Amazon and keep them around so we have it when we needed.

We have also found that making filler panels for the larger openings make a huge difference in sound quality. We make thin sheetmetal pieces that we apply some type of sound deadener to and then we use butyl to stick them on. Easily removable for service work in the door. My doors are like vault doors in the trucks. Lots of sound deadening inside the doors, on the backside of the inner skin, panels, etc. Super tight, super quiet.

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It is a good thing.
Good luck!
 

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