Sound deadening project for the LX 450!

[jonnyd42]

I decided it's time to replace my gross carpet (prev owner smoked) with a new OEM one, and do some sound deadening! I've done a lot of reading of previous posts and on Google. From what I gather so far, the recommendation is generally 3 stages. I saw that carbuilders have a great kit but they're completely out of stock and the US distributor doesn't know when they'll be available here in the states.

1. Stage 1 = damping. From what I can tell, butyl-based products are the move here. I'm looking at going with kilmat for this base layer
2. Stage 2 = blocking airborne sound waves. I see that typically people put MLV, closed cell foam, or some combo on top. I like that the carbuilders kit is a combo of closed cell foam and MLV. I don't know what to use here
3. Stage 3 = absorbing any other waves. I see sometimes people use open cell foam.

Looking for some help here with my final "stackup". I will be doing the entire floor - cargo area, wheel wells, and passenger area. Everything except the doors and roof for now (will do that at a later date). A few questions:

• What should I use for stage 2? Any product recs?
• Can I use the same thing for stage 2 across the entire floor, or should I use something else for the cargo area?
• Do I need a stage 3?

I'll be putting a new OEM carpet over the top, so whatever I use can't be super super thick. Thank you everyone!!

 

[jonheld]

Search is your friend. Lots of posts on sound deadening.

 

[jonnyd42]

Search is your friend. Lots of posts on sound deadening.

There are surprisingly few posts on product recommendations for closed cell foam, or stage 2 and beyond. I'm not asking for tips on stage 1, which is super well covered. I also found a lot of posts (and on fb) recommending products that either aren't available or out of stock (e.g. carbuilders).

 

[tmxmotorsports]

I decided it's time to replace my gross carpet (prev owner smoked) with a new OEM one, and do some sound deadening! I've done a lot of reading of previous posts and on Google. From what I gather so far, the recommendation is generally 3 stages. I saw that carbuilders have a great kit but they're completely out of stock and the US distributor doesn't know when they'll be available here in the states.

1. Stage 1 = damping. From what I can tell, butyl-based products are the move here. I'm looking at going with kilmat for this base layer
2. Stage 2 = blocking airborne sound waves. I see that typically people put MLV, closed cell foam, or some combo on top. I like that the carbuilders kit is a combo of closed cell foam and MLV. I don't know what to use here
3. Stage 3 = absorbing any other waves. I see sometimes people use open cell foam.

Looking for some help here with my final "stackup". I will be doing the entire floor - cargo area, wheel wells, and passenger area. Everything except the doors and roof for now (will do that at a later date). A few questions:

• What should I use for stage 2? Any product recs?
• Can I use the same thing for stage 2 across the entire floor, or should I use something else for the cargo area?
• Do I need a stage 3?

I'll be putting a new OEM carpet over the top, so whatever I use can't be super super thick. Thank you everyone!!

This Is what I use it's definitely over kill 120mill first layer second is 320mill that is actually 120mill deadner and 200mill foam all in one.the entire truck is done that way except the doors where the panel goes on its just the 120mill but tye inside has both 120 and 320

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Can purchase from Down4soundshop they have a few different thickness ones.

 

[Mjones]

I decided it's time to replace my gross carpet (prev owner smoked) with a new OEM one, and do some sound deadening! I've done a lot of reading of previous posts and on Google. From what I gather so far, the recommendation is generally 3 stages. I saw that carbuilders have a great kit but they're completely out of stock and the US distributor doesn't know when they'll be available here in the states.

1. Stage 1 = damping. From what I can tell, butyl-based products are the move here. I'm looking at going with kilmat for this base layer
2. Stage 2 = blocking airborne sound waves. I see that typically people put MLV, closed cell foam, or some combo on top. I like that the carbuilders kit is a combo of closed cell foam and MLV. I don't know what to use here
3. Stage 3 = absorbing any other waves. I see sometimes people use open cell foam.

Looking for some help here with my final "stackup". I will be doing the entire floor - cargo area, wheel wells, and passenger area. Everything except the doors and roof for now (will do that at a later date). A few questions:

• What should I use for stage 2? Any product recs?
• Can I use the same thing for stage 2 across the entire floor, or should I use something else for the cargo area?
• Do I need a stage 3?

I'll be putting a new OEM carpet over the top, so whatever I use can't be super super thick. Thank you everyone!!

Great resource here. Archived. I did their full system purchased from them.

Sound Deadener Showdown | Your Vehicle Quiet

Vehicle sound deadening is a process, not a product. Vibration dampers, barriers, acoustic foams and decouplers each play a role. Learn what they do and how to use them. Do it once, do it right, enjoy the results.

web.archive.org

This build did the same I believ - worth reading Builds - Total Restoration 1997 40th Anniversary Cruiser - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/total-restoration-1997-40th-anniversary-cruiser.869260/page-12

Plus I added a layer of this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008NF84J8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 over the MLV but had to tri back anywhere things needed bolting down like seats or it built up too high under gas/brake pedals.

Very pleased with the results.

For equivalent material sources it was these - some items aren't available but you can track down the equivalent materials. My son did this on his vehicle and had to source new materials.

MLV: You can find other sizes and lengths on ebay as well. I also tried slightly thinner for some things and comapred and thinner seemed to work just as well.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Soundslate-1lb-Mass-Loaded-Vinyl-4-x-25-100-sf-roll-Soundproofing-MLV-/121596772331

Hydrophobic Melamine Foam: Known as Mega'Zorbe. Amazon has different choices of sizes.

https://www.amazon.com/MegaZorbe-Hydrophobic-Melamine-Foam-Stick/dp/B01N2497HN

Closed Cell Foam: Bought this stuff, its 90% the same stuff.

https://www.foambymail.com/NE-HQ/neoprene-high-quality-foam-sheets.html

Everything else can be found at a local hardware store.

The last item I plan to try on my 80 is this at the door jambs = https://acurazine.com/forums/4g-tl-2009-2014-123/3rd-door-seal-triple-seal-diy-938122/
triple sealed sort of like Merc and other lux sedands do. This was for an Acura TL that got pos result.



Here's the list of stuff from their kit:

Toyota Land Cruiser 4 door SUV 1990-1997​

Generation:
J80
Measured Year:
1 997
Dimmensions:
Toyota Land Cruiser 4 door SUV 1990-1997 Dimensions
Net Weight Added to Vehicle in lbs.:
172

Product	Quantity
CLD Tiles™	87
Extruded Butyl Rope - 15 feet 3/8"	1
Plain MLV 1/8" 1 lb/ft² 54" - Linear Feet	36
Sheets 1/8"x36"x54" Neoprene/EPDM Closed Cell Foam	11
Hydrophobic Melamine Foam - 3/4"x24"x24" (4 ft²) pieces	6
Velcro® Strips, Adhesive both sides - 2"x4"	32
HH-66 Vinyl Contact Cement - 32 oz can	1

This materials list is an estimate based on measurements provided by a customer or customers. Quantities should be considered what I expect to need for the project instead of what I know will be needed. This turns out to be very close in almost every case but is absolutely not guaranteed! "Add to Cart" for total, shipping and purchase.
Product Distribution by Area:
Front Doors (each):
5.5 CLD Tiles™, outer skin
1 CLD Tile™, probably cut into smaller pieces, inner skin
1 CLD Tile™, probably cut into smaller pieces, trim panel
Extruded Butyl Rope
6.7 ft² MLV
9 ft² 1/8" CCF
2.5 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

Rear Doors (each):
4 CLD Tiles™, outer skin
1 CLD Tile™, probably cut into smaller pieces, inner skin
1 CLD Tile™, probably cut into smaller pieces, trim panel
Extruded Butyl Rope
5.7 ft² MLV
8 ft² 1/8" CCF
2.5 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

There is more CCF than MLV because you want as close as possible to a full layer of CCF on the side of the MLV facing the inner door skin and will add pieces of CCF on the side of the MLV facing the trim panel where the MLV and trim panel would otherwise make loose contact.

Kick Panels (each):
.5 CLD Tiles™
1.1 ft² MLV
1.1 ft² 1/8" CCF
1 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

Floor:
10 CLD Tiles™
39.3 ft² MLV
54 ft² 1/8" CCF (extra is to double up in the foot wells)
2 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

Back Seat Platform / Riser:
5 CLD Tiles™
8.7 ft² MLV
8.7 ft² 1/8" CCF
3 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

Roof:
18 CLD Tiles™
22.7 ft² 3/4" Hydrophobic Melamine Foam

Cargo Area Floor:
10 CLD Tiles™
18.2 ft² MLV
18.2 ft² 1/8" CCF
6 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

Quarter Panels (each):
5 CLD Tiles™
8 ft² MLV
8 ft² 1/8" CCF
3 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

Hatch Door:
5 CLD Tiles™, outer skin
1 CLD Tile™, probably cut into smaller pieces, trim panel
5.9 ft² MLV
8 ft² 1/8" CCF
3 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides

Totals:
87 CLD Tiles™
1 roll Extruded Butyl Rope
146.5 ft² MLV
149.8 ft² 1/8" CCF
22.7 ft² 3/4" Hydrophobic Melamine Foam
32 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides
1 32 oz can HH-66 Vinyl Contact Cement

 

[CutumFZJ80]

I did the following:
1. KILMAT 80 mil (Covered floor, doors, roof)
2. Noico Liner Closed Cell Foam (Helps with sound, insulation and dampening)
3. Design Engineering 050113 Under Carpet Lite (Used as a jute carpet replacement helps with sound, insulation and dampening)
4. Factory carpet

Adding additional layers of thickness cuts into the clearances and fitment of your factory plastic paneling. I did have to trim down certain sections where say the edge of the quarter panel plastic met the top of the floor with additional layers on top. Looking back I would 100% do it again, well worth the creature comforts gained from what is seemingly now a road noise free cabin and temps in the hot and cold never get too extreme. One additional note, if you are adding a stereo and sub like I did, this process also further pays dividends, I have virtually 0 rattles running a 12 inch sub.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I agree with @Mjones the archived guide linked is a really good practical guide.

I did similar in a previous cruiser, and the results are well worth the effort.

Closed cell foam will eventually crush flat in high wear spots, like under the driver's heels etc
MLV would be more durable in that respect.

 

[lumbee1]

I used one layer of 80 mil Noico throughout the Cruiser front to back and while it made a difference, I want to further deaden the sound. Thanks for the links.

 

[sambrian2007]

I did the following:
1. KILMAT 80 mil (Covered floor, doors, roof)
2. Noico Liner Closed Cell Foam (Helps with sound, insulation and dampening)
3. Design Engineering 050113 Under Carpet Lite (Used as a jute carpet replacement helps with sound, insulation and dampening)
4. Factory carpet

Adding additional layers of thickness cuts into the clearances and fitment of your factory plastic paneling. I did have to trim down certain sections where say the edge of the quarter panel plastic met the top of the floor with additional layers on top. Looking back I would 100% do it again, well worth the creature comforts gained from what is seemingly now a road noise free cabin and temps in the hot and cold never get too extreme. One additional note, if you are adding a stereo and sub like I did, this process also further pays dividends, I have virtually 0 rattles running a 12 inch sub.

View attachment 3547765View attachment 3547766View attachment 3547767

I really like this approach. I did the same without Step 2. Looking back I wish I would have done Step 2 but I'm happy with the Kilmat and DEI UCL.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Following. Wondering best combo that’s not too thick

 

[jonnyd42]

I did the following:
1. KILMAT 80 mil (Covered floor, doors, roof)
2. Noico Liner Closed Cell Foam (Helps with sound, insulation and dampening)
3. Design Engineering 050113 Under Carpet Lite (Used as a jute carpet replacement helps with sound, insulation and dampening)
4. Factory carpet

Adding additional layers of thickness cuts into the clearances and fitment of your factory plastic paneling. I did have to trim down certain sections where say the edge of the quarter panel plastic met the top of the floor with additional layers on top. Looking back I would 100% do it again, well worth the creature comforts gained from what is seemingly now a road noise free cabin and temps in the hot and cold never get too extreme. One additional note, if you are adding a stereo and sub like I did, this process also further pays dividends, I have virtually 0 rattles running a 12 inch sub.

View attachment 3547765View attachment 3547766View attachment 3547767

Thanks! What did you use to adhere the closed cell foam to the kilmat?

 

[CutumFZJ80]

Thanks! What did you use to adhere the closed cell foam to the kilmat?

It comes with an adhesive backing, just cut to size, peel and stick.

 

[MarkMarine]

I'm a bit down the rabbit hole here, but what I can't tell from these reports of what ya'll used for CLD or dampening is how well it actually worked. Is there a marked difference if you wrap every sheet metal panel in CLD? Is using CLD and MLV everywhere in an older Land Cruiser have the same affect as riding in a Rolls Royce?

Most of the comments seem to be about what was done, objectively, but I'm really curious about the subjective results. How does this compare to a mid level Lexus that is sold today?

 

[SNLC]

Cheers

 

[Crossthreaded]

@SNLC: Ian - that’s amazing. What are the layers on top of the base dampening layer? Are you getting thermal insulation in addition to the sound deadening?

 

[LXDOC]

These sound deadening efforts are definitely helpful.
My wife’s ‘16 GX460 is quieter.
Look how clean the exterior design is( no drip rails, tighter panel gaps,etc.).
I have always found the wind noise on my 450 to be the most noticeable noise at highway speed. Add a bunch of exterior aftermarket items and the noise will increase.

 

[SNLC]

@SNLC: Ian - that’s amazing. What are the layers on top of the base dampening layer? Are you getting thermal insulation in addition to the sound deadening?

It’s dynamat which from my experience all these butyl based mats are the same. I like dynamat cause it has 1” square grid printed on it.

After the dynamat it all got scuffed and then we sprayed LizardSkin sound deadening with LizardSkin ceramic sprayed as the final coat.

Cheers

 

[jonnyd42]

I'm a bit down the rabbit hole here, but what I can't tell from these reports of what ya'll used for CLD or dampening is how well it actually worked. Is there a marked difference if you wrap every sheet metal panel in CLD? Is using CLD and MLV everywhere in an older Land Cruiser have the same affect as riding in a Rolls Royce?

Most of the comments seem to be about what was done, objectively, but I'm really curious about the subjective results. How does this compare to a mid level Lexus that is sold today?

I measured before and after on the same routes with the same speeds. Around the city up to ~50mph it made a 3dB difference (MLV + dynamat). On the highway, it's a 1dB difference and I'm assuming that's dominated by the wind noise, which I'm assuming is hard to get rid of without acoustic glass

 

[jonnyd42]

Fitting the factory carpet over the dynamat isn't an issue, but with the MLV it was tight in the cargo area (esp around the wheel wells). I have pretty crippling OCD so every time I look at the cargo area and see an imperfect floor area it drives me nuts. I've gone so far mentally as to consider ripping all the MLV out just so it can sit properly as father Toyota intended lol.