Sound dampening for door cards (1 Viewer)

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lumbee1

Native American
Joined
Sep 21, 2011
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Location
Holly Springs, NC
My window runs needed to be replaced. Many years ago, I purchased a full set of window runs from a member on MUD but I don't think they were OEM toyota. All 4 window runs snapped at the corners. I ordered OEM replacements and when I removed the driver's side run, I noticed it was quite stiff and seemed of poor quality.

While replacing the driver's side window run, I had to remove the door card to pull the window run down the channels. While the door card was off, I added some 4mm closed cell adhesive foam sheet to the door card for noise and temperature control. I didn't document the process but it was quite easy. I started on the passenger side window run and repeated the process but took some pictures.

I've driven the truck with one door done and it seemed to make a huge difference but that would be because I didn't have a 2" gap in the window run with the sound of rushing air 6" from my ear. I will report back when all the doors are done.


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Any issues with fitting the card back on the door?
This always had me concerned before I attempted this project, however I can happily say there were no issues at all. The plastic trim around the door lock and lever seemed more difficult than usual but mine are brand new and they were a pain to get off and reinstall. My original trim pieces popped on and off easily but were cracked around the screw.


All four doors are done. Many years ago I upgraded the rear door speakers to 6.5" speakers. The metal around the speaker is quite flimsy now. I added a layer of neoprene tape to the metal, covered with the vapor barrier, and then bolted my ~8mm modified speaker spacer on top. The door card went on next with the speaker mounted on the face of the door card.

I added the neoprene to address rattling from my rear speakers. As luck would have it, I found that when I was reinstalling the door card and slapped it with my hand, the LEDs in my mud lights were rattling. The LEDs are a 15x5050 LED panel. They are fit perfectly behind the clear lens but are slightly undersized. I confirmed that the speaker in the door caused the LED to vibrate in the housing. I added a thin strip of foam tape to hold the LEDs in place with the lens reinstalled.

Speaker spacer mounted.
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The LED panel looks similar to the one below but 3rows of 5 LEDs.
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@lumbee1 was one roll of close cell foam enough for all 4 doors?
 
@lumbee1 was one roll of close cell foam enough for all 4 doors?
I've got enough left to do 3 more vehicles. I normally try to conserve as much material as possible like using scraps where I can. Not this time. I just stuck down the entire sheet and cut off what I didn't need and tossed in the trash. I would highly recommend using a razor knife instead of scissors. The razor knife made this project really easy to do.
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Depending on how well this works, I might install the Siless 314 mil Sound Deadening mat in the rear quarter panels.
 
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Thanks for the info. I get my rig back soon from the paint shop and I'm preparing to do the final steps of my restoration, which includes quieting the cabin, installing a sound system, and then reinstalling the interior.

I'm planning a combination of products and techniques to make it quieter inside. Sound deadener in large panels (outer door skins, rear quarters and roof). Closed-cell foam/mass-loaded vinyl (CCF/MLV) over the wheel wells. Insulation in the roof and other places. And now, I have added this 4mm product to my list for the door cards.
 
I lined my front door cards with acoustic dampening foam awhile ago and it helps with noise but like your solution much better. Never knew this stuff existed.
 
I lined my front door cards with acoustic dampening foam awhile ago and it helps with noise but like your solution much better. Never knew this stuff existed.
I checked my order. I bought the foam almost 2 years ago for $57. It has been sitting on my shelf since then. I finally had a reason to open up the doors and decided to install it.
 

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