Sound deadener and new seats (3 Viewers)

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I just did mine last winter, took her down to bare metal, air chisel worked great. Took my carpet down to the local car wash and hung up the carpet and sprayed them down, its amazing how much dirt that carpet can hold and still not get it all out. Ordered a dye from detailking.com, it seemed to bring most of the color back. Ordered some Quietcrap and laid that down thoughout the whole floor with two layers of jute on top of that and the carpet fit back in just fine.
As for the adhesive, I followed the directions on the back of the can reading you can spay on the adhesive and let it sit for a certain period of time (I think it was about 10 mins. or so) so the jute will stick to the floor and the carpet to the jute but not permanently, it just holds it in place, I didn't want a big mess if that were to come out again for any reason, worked pretty good.
 
Forgot to mention while I was padding the doors I found these in the bottom of the front doors. I kept wondering why my windows were rattling when they were down, these are the rubber gaskets that sit in the front track for the windows...problem solved!

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I love the PT seats but am hitting my head on the sill getting in and out. Working on lowering the seats even further. Thanks for the Frost King idea, will be nice to hear the speakers.
 
No problem ff, I just figure I had to do something a little more economical and so far so good. It's sticking really well, there are a few spots around the edges that it's not wanting to stick, but that's probably more the cleaning than the product. I did use a 1" roller to help get it down. I am goin to do a layer of reflectix also.
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Today I scrapped the rest of the carpet padding off, used a 5 in 1 paint tool and just laid it on the floor and scrapped it off. Took about 20 min per piece, now I did pull the thick stuff off yesterday before taking it to the car wash, this was the remnants.

Before scrapping
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After scrapping
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After scrapping
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Got the reflectix in tonight, laid down pretty well and taped the seams together.
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Found a local paint shop that carried POR-15 today so I was able to get the rust taken care of. Also got the carpet back in tonight but waiting till tomorrow for the POR to cure before I secure the front side down.

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Well here are two videos I took so you could hear the differences. I am quite impressed with the mod, I used 3 rolls of the frost king and 1 roll of the reflectix. So I've got about 70 bucks into it at the moment, figure another roll of frost king for the rear quarters and wheel wells and it'll be set.



 
For anyone who cares about sound deadening your vehicle properly, here is probably the best comprehensive website on the net:

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

I have used some of their products which are top notch.
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Couple pointer for future sound deadening DIY'ers

FWIW, if you are on a budget, jute padding is very cheap and FAR superior to the reflectix stuff for sound control. Although as an insulator its great, the reflectix does virtually nothing for sound. The frost king sounds like good stuff as long as it sticks well.

Also, the OE tar mats are also highly effective mass loaders, you should not remove those unless concerned about rust (as seen in this thread).

IMO the doors on these rigs need the most attention, they are tin cans. Then the wheel wells. A rubberized undercoating on the outside wheel wells goes a long ways. I would start there and then maybe do some targeting deadening on the floor as needed (minor).

The floor is relatively well deadened from the factory.

Sorry for the hijack. Great Job on the install BTW!
 
Thanks db, I was concerned about the adhesion initially but found out last night I had nothing to worry about. I forgot to cut out the holes for the rear seats so when I cut the frost king and tried to pull it off it was a pain in the arse, it came off in pieces, so I was glad to see that. The reason I removed the Jute was I couldn't get the "hair" off from the carpet padding and there was still a lot of dirt left on it, originally I was going to leave it but it just made a better surface to attach to being clean. I put the reflectix specifically in for the heat shielding and not for sound deadening, so now it should be a much more pleasant and cooler ride in the 60.
 
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Well this phase of the project is coming to a close, got the carpet in last night and finished up today after the POR-15 cured. Then got the seats installed and tightened down. Only had about 30 min tonight with having some company come over, so tomorrow I'll take some better pictures of how it's mounted up. I didn't have a chance tonight but I think I can slide the seat belt clip up int the seat, so I'll try that tomorrow. I believe I am going to build a new center console, with the old one out now is the opportunity to build something more user friendly. Plus have something that is more functional.

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Second phase will include deadening the well wells and rear quarter panels along with tinting the rig. It may be a month or so before I get to those but I look forward to it!
 
Looking real good dude and is one of the things on my list to do to BeBe. Question: Was the point of the reflectix to add sound deadening or to add insulation? I know there are some guys that go with the MLV and closed cell foam for further insulation and sound deadening and I am wondering about doing the same when I do mine (layer of sound deadener and then either Jute or closed cell foam for insulation).
 
Looking real good dude and is one of the things on my list to do to BeBe. Question: Was the point of the reflectix to add sound deadening or to add insulation? I know there are some guys that go with the MLV and closed cell foam for further insulation and sound deadening and I am wondering about doing the same when I do mine (layer of sound deadener and then either Jute or closed cell foam for insulation).

Thanks Greg, yeah the reflectix is for insulation mainly, I'm sure it helps a little with the deadening. I had read of folks using this and was skeptical on how well it worked and then Roger was at one of our events a few months ago and I was riding with him, we got on the topic since he has a Dodge Cummings diesel in his 60. Come to find out he has the reflectix under his rubber mat and was pleased with it. So I figured for 18 bucks is was a good investment, and it only took one roll to do the cab from the rear seats to the front.
 
Here are a few shots of the mounts. I found it is best to leave the mounts a little loose so you can adjust them once you have the seat bolted on the cruiser. The passenger seat was in straight from the beginning but I had the front of the drivers seat off a little which really threw off the seat itself. So I had to loosen everything a little and reposition it straight. Not too big of a deal just a minor detail.

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To give you an idea on the leg room, I am 6'1 and if the seat is all the way back I cannot press the clutch all the way in in order to change gears. That's insane. Well worth the money, I've got 50 bucks into the seats, I've got 70 bucks in the 3 rolls of frost king and 1 roll of reflectix, and about 40 bucks in the dry ice(if I had done it on a Saturday then I would of finished in one day, but since I did it when I got home from work I just ran out of time. So I had to buy another bag the next night to finish it up) So you could probably get away with 25-30 bucks on the dry ice. So for 160 bucks I've got a sweet, nice, clean, quieter interior. Drove it around tonight and it is so much nicer, can't wait to take it some distance and see how the insulation works out.

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Looks great Chuck! Nothing like doing improvements to a rig you have had a good while.
Tint makes a huge difference in temp. Especially the front windows. We have 20% on the front doors of our 4runner and the temp is drastically different than a vehicle with no front tint.
 
I repaired some rust hole on my MGB with POR 15 and some fiberglass fabric. The stuff dries really hard and it seals up the rust.

http://www.por15.com/
 

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