Something timing belt-ish failed (1 Viewer)

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Too many, the truck has 200,000 miles on it. I know it was done at least once by the PO but I'm not 100%.

Lesson learned. It was on the list of things to do anyway.
 
ANNNNND I'm back. I was able to steal a few hours in the shop today and this is where I am at. I got the timing belt all lined up and hand cranked it through a few rotations to make sure the timing was on. It was. Thank you to @2001LC, @outdoorsman and @REZARF for the help. When you know how to do it, it is easy. The story of life I suppose.
I got it buttoned up far enough to do a compression test and I have 120PSI across all 8 holes, so good news there! I got as far as filling the radiator but I don't have any distilled water and I also need to get new plugs because I an NOT putting the Bosch Platinums back in it.
Thanks to everyone that has helped so far! The journey continues!

Can you elaborate on the procedure to get everything aligned?
 
Too many, the truck has 200,000 miles on it. I know it was done at least once by the PO but I'm not 100%.

How do you "know" it's been replaced once? What's the condition and brand of the belt?
 
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There is a sticker on the radiator shroud. I can make out timing belt and it shows the milage that it was done at, but I can't make out the numbers. I'll have the belt out today and know more. I haven't looked at it much. I've just been taking parts off, coming back to this forum, to YouTube, and back to the garage.
 
My wife is picking up a crankshaft pulley puller right now. Thanks so much for all the help so far. This forum is invaluable.

I’m still a little confused on lining up the timing marks. I think I have the procedure to follow, I’m just nervous about turning the cam gears. I’m not 100% clear on what I’m lining up.



This is part 1 of 2. Great tututorial and helps a ton



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Cam sprocket protected by piece of old timing belt, can be held with chain wrench. Just use care not to damage.

In the none VVT engine like your 03, guys in mud have turned the crank 360 deg with belt off. Not once have they run into interface (piston hitting a valve). So don't get overly concerned with marks, except during assembly.

With crankshaft set to TDC, the #1 piston is at top of cylinder. Which happens when mark on harmonic damper (circled in red ) aligned to zero on dial (not pictured) that is fixed to lower timing belt cover. TDC of #1 cyl can also be set with timing mark (notch, red arrow points to) on crank sprocket and mark (bump, yellow arrow points to) on oil pump housing.
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Crank Marks for belt are seen here:
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With LH cam timing marks aligned, the #1 intake & exhaust valves are closed for compression stroke. We must also aligned RH cam marks. Then belt ties it altogether.
This is a VVT engine so cam sprockets looks a little different than non. This sprocket is about 1/2 tooth past (CW) the mark on engine.
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Yellow arrow points to timing mark on engine. Red arrow points to mark on this cam sprocket which is about 1/2 tooth past (CW) the mark on engine.
Mark sure to NOT use the "T" for cam marks timing mark.
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In these pictures sprocket happens to be about 1/2 tooth pass (CW) of the timing mark on engine.
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Tips:
Cover radiator with cardboard.
With all spark plus out, it makes turning crank easy.
Cleaning harmonic balancer and crankshaft then adding a little grease where they mate, makes slipping on and off easy.
 
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My wife got home with the rented crank pully puller, but it didn't work. My dad helped me make this. My only concern is bending the bolts , or worse, breaking them off in my pully when I start to torque it. I figured the screws are going to have to be 2.5 inches long to reach inside the recessed pully bolt holes.
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Kit should be here Friday.

Time to clean up for dinner. Merry Christmas everyone.
 
Short piece of old drive belt to protect.
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Remove oil sending unit to make room for chain wrench to hold with 3/4" breaker bar
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Torquing on.
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Use a dab of 103 FIPG, on threads of oil sending unit during install.
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Gonna finish gathering a few things today.
1. I have to buy a chain wrench. I don’t have an impact gun and I need to take the cam gears off.
2. I need to buy a seal remover.
3. Seal packing. Damn! $93 from my local Toyota dealer! I have some Toyota FIPG from a head gasket a few years back on an 80. Some threads in other forums say just use that. Some recommend Permatex. Some say NEVER USE ANYTHING EXCEPT FSM RECOMENDATION. I gues I have some decisions to make with that.
 
3. Seal packing. Damn! $93 from my local Toyota dealer! I have some Toyota FIPG from a head gasket a few years back on an 80. Some threads in other forums say just use that. Some recommend Permatex. Some say NEVER USE ANYTHING EXCEPT FSM RECOMENDATION. I gues I have some decisions to make with that.

The FIPG, is it for the water inlet?
 
Yes. I thought I had what I needed. The fsm calls for a coolant specific fipg.

I'm having a hard time justifying almost $100 unless it's an absolute must
 
The main reason for 1282B fipg is compatibility with SLL coolant. Use a different coolant and You can use the cheaper fipg. Fwiw there is 1282B fipg on Ebay for around $30- several have reported its legit. Maybe someone will post the seller link. Aisin makes a multi coolant compatible fipg- I read a post from Cruiser Outfitters a while back who stock it. Personnaly this isnt the place I would experiment with alternate fipg because I use the Toyota SLL and dont like redoing work. If it makes you feel better, I think a good many shops and toyota dealers dont use the specified 1282B and use the 103 or the permatex ultra black. It just may not have the life span when using SLL Coolant.

As for all the tools you dont have: go to napa, orielies, autozone whichever is convenient to you and use the loaner tool program. Or maybe there is a mudmember near you with these that you can barter for a 12pack.

The seals can be removed with out a special tool if you are super careful not to scratch the mating surface (race) but it requires some finnesse. You dont need an impact wrench, but a 20” breaker bar and a harmonic balancer puller holder; leverage is your friend. Im not a fan of chain wrench because of the potential for damage on the pulley but to each thier own. I prefer the holders that screw into the pulley.

Good luck
 
Yes. I thought I had what I needed. The fsm calls for a coolant specific fipg.

I'm having a hard time justifying almost $100 unless it's an absolute must

I'm sure the Toyota/Three Bond fipg is a great product, but I successfully used Permatex's water pump and thermostat gasket maker.

Its been over 3.5 years and ~34,000 miles since I did the work and I've had no leaks or issues. I did make a point to follow the instructions which include letting the gasket maker cure for over 18 hours before adding coolant which was inconvenient.
 
I'm sure the Toyota/Three Bond fipg is a great product, but I successfully used Permatex's water pump and thermostat gasket maker.

Its been over 3.5 years and ~34,000 miles since I did the work and I've had no leaks or issues. I did make a point to follow the instructions which include letting the gasket maker cure for over 18 hours before adding coolant which was inconvenient.

^^^Yes I think the key success with other fipg options is the cure time before adding coolant. Great point!
 
Thank you. I've never flushed the system. The coolant is pink. I planned on re-using the coolant. So can I definitely NOT use the toyota fipg from my head gasket job?
 
Parts come in tomorrow. I don't want to wait and I'm not spending $100 for a small amount.

I do have the Toyota 103 fipg but this actually says for water pumps.

I don't want to change my red coolant unless I absolutely have to.
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Just wait 24hrs to let it fully cure before you add coolant.

Not sure how old your coolant is but unless the coolant in your system is new ( like couple of months new) its not good practice to reuse the coolant. Its only $15 a gallon for Toyota SLL.
 
Borrowed a chain wrench tonight. I tried using my homemade tool, but as expected, the screws are flexing and bending.

I don't want to order and wait, nor do I want to spend $65 money on a rarely used tool and no parts store had one. But I wish I had one.
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I'm going to try and avoid removing the oil sending unit unless I have to. If I do have to remove it, will I need to drain the oil?

Decided to flush and put Prestone universal 50/50.

Kit will be here tomorrow sometime. Gonna watch some videos on removing cam seals.

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Borrowed a chain wrench tonight. I tried using my homemade tool, but as expected, the screws are flexing and bending.

I don't want to order and wait, nor do I want to spend $65 money on a rarely used tool and no parts store had one. But I wish I had one. View attachment 1863943

I'm going to try and avoid removing the oil sending unit unless I have to. If I do have to remove it, will I need to drain the oil?

Decided to flush and put Prestone universal 50/50.

Kit will be here tomorrow sometime. Gonna watch some videos on removing cam seals.

View attachment 1863944
Oil sending unit can be remove without draining oil.
You'll want a piece of old drive belt (serpentine) to protect groves of harmonic pulley groves. So you may want to pick up a new one. You can just put the chain wrench on pulley unprotected, but it will leave marks.
I find chain wrench marks all the time from Toyota/Lexus Dealership T-belt jobs.
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The Toyota coolant is good stuff. I highly recommend you use the recommended Toyota coolant red or pink for your year and stick with it through the years.
 

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