some h55f and split case tech (2 Viewers)

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I did not have the right puller for that needle/pocket bearing, so I used a long rod of 6mm threaded rod, ground down a nut that would go behind the cage.
Whack it against a washer and nut, came out after 5 wacks.

Next, how do I set preload on output, without something to measure with.
I only have a fish pull scale and a torque wrench....
And one shim.
Duh.
 
Pulling that bearing was easy on my case. Lucky I guess. Where I ran into trouble was pushing the new one in. The cage is so flimsy that it deformed and I had to buy a second one.

Any advice on how to press it, Georg?
 
I had an unusual experience changing a front output seal this week. When I pulled the flange, the seal came with it.

When I tapped a new seal in; it promptly spat it right back out.

I had to 'glue' it in with orange RTV to get it to stay. We'll see how long it holds. I've never had a lip seal do that before. Is the case deformed? Or is this common?
 
preload is set using the shims to adjust load(more shims for more load, less for less load...) and the fish scale pulling on one of the flange studs- the scale needs to pull the flange at a roughly 90* angle to the stud; picture the long hand of a clock with a 90* arm at its tip to pull from...this needs to be more than 1LB for a used bearing and between 4 and 12 or something pounds for a new bearing...going from memory, so double check those specs against FSM...
 
how do I set preload on output, without something to measure with.

Buy one of THESE, then sell it when you're done. You can't accurately set this preload with a fish scale. The values are in In-lbs not Ft-lbs. (7-20 in-lbs depending on bearing status)

The output shaft bearing preload is the only place where you will use this very specific torque wrench. But unless you've done it a few times before, it's hard to know what the preload should feel like just by feel without a micro torque wrench.

I can tell you that if the rear flange spins easily when the bearing retainer is fully tightened up, then the preload is too low, even if no slop can be felt. When the preload is within spec, noticeable drag can be felt when turning the flange by hand... but not excessive.

Without having felt the correct resistance by hand previously, there is no way to be sure that you've set the preload to spec. Gotta bite the bullet and get one of these wrenches. Their resale is high, so in the end it doesn't cost much.
wrench.JPG
 

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these aren't Rovers and we aren't bankers:p but you can spend your money on one of those if you want...I almost suggested one as an option, but decided not to insult any MEN reading this:flipoff2:
 
I don't use a press to install the bearings, I use bearing drivers or the right size piece of steel tubing and a hammer. I've never had a problem installing the pocket bearings but they do come with a thin coat of cosmolene ( or similar oil based coating to keep them from rusting ) which can create extra drag when you try to install them. To prevent this, I wipe the bearings down with break clean to remove this film from the outside race. Then they install a little easier.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids
 
Medium is for the outside of the speedo "bullet"

Small one doesn't get used.

The aluminum crush washers are for the fill/drain plugs.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids
 
Thanks for quick reply, as always!
Next, is there a reason the roller bearings on the idler shaft is not the full width of the idler gear?
Here they're tucked all the way in, and they're 7mm inside of the idler gear.
uploadfromtaptalk1433092961907.JPG
 
There's a spacer that's supposed to be between the two roller bearings. It's a thin steel sleeve. Do you have it in there?
 
Oh... I just put the right tourqe on the case bolts... I'll pop it of again, and see if I can salvage the paper gasket. Probably not...
Stupid miss on my end, I actually had a photo of it, and it was in the fsm.
I'll tear it down again.
 
Aaaaand now it's in there, all good, gasket came right off.

Btw, I installed the rear half case now, with the hi/lo shifter top bracket in place.
I aimed it forward when entering the fork, and turned it into the shift fork as I slid the case cover on.
No chance of it dropping into the case.
 
Finally I have a few hours to assemble, maybe I'll get it back together tonight.

Now, what are the two smaller o-rings for? Large one goes on idler shaft.
View attachment 1085375

There is a small O ring imbedded in the inside of the speedo gear housing. No picture, Sorry.
 
The o-ring was only used on the earlier tcases with the steel speedo bullet. Iirc everything from 79 and newer used the aluminum speedo bullet which utilized a hat seal as pictured above. I've never seen a split case with a steel speedo bullet.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids
 
That jogs my memory. My '87 case had a tiny lip seal deep in the housing. Used a deep well socket to press it in.
 
Will my 83 H55f work together with my 87-89 vacuum operated split case? From what I have read here I would think so.
Looking at h55f rebuild kits I mostly find post 85 h55f rebuild kits. What's the difference here between pre and post 85 h55f transmissions and could I use a post 85 rebuild kit on my 83 transmission?
Any special tools I would need, anything to look out for?
I don't have a press, could it be done without one?
 
A press is great for the output shaft bearings. the vacuum operated tcase for a 62 will work w/o issue- I have one behind the 4 speed in my fj62. not certain the differences in vintages for rebuild parts, but Georg will know. transmission jack...some rags and a good cursing vocabulary...
 

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