some h55f and split case tech (4 Viewers)

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Ok, now I know I need the oiler cup.
And I don't have one.
So this plastic thingy is going to stop the rebuild? Or shall I proceed?

Another thing, input seal.
I got the kit from George, seal that fits is .04 thicker.
And a different design.
New on the right.
_20150516_135751.JPG
 
you're going to need that plastic bugger....you need to find another project till it arrives...as far as the seal goes, will the new one prevent the cases from seating? if not, then run it. Georg could tell me my cruiser was a honda and I'd believe him...
 
Oh, FATHERFASKEN!
Sorry, just not what I wanted to hear.
Eventhough that's what I figured... Now everything is ready for assembly, even the diy McNamara gear turned out great. Tapped and plugged the damn hole for the bolt not needed. Tapped and screwed in a angled top vent.
I don't know if I'm gonna wait for 2 weeks, I don't have another car.

So the 5th gear is depending on that little plastic fart to survive?
Amazing....
 
yeah, bummer. might wait for the boss to show up and confirm, but you might get away without engaging 5th gear till the cup is installed...you know anyone with a 3d printer?
 
You need the oiler cup. Do NOT run it without it you will kill 5th. Also, you don't want to take it all apart again just to snap in a $5.00 piece of plastic.

Dyno
 
Hey Pal.
Get the oiler in there! It supplies oil flow to the 5th counter gear roller bearings. I have seen the bearings fail and ruin the shaft because of lack of oil flow.
I have the oilers in stock, could put one in the mail for you today. Or you should be able to get one at the Toyota dealer.
Lemme know.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids
 
orangefj45 said:
Hey Pal.
Get the oiler in there! It supplies oil flow to the 5th counter gear roller bearings. I have seen the bearings fail and ruin the shaft because of lack of oil flow.
I have the oilers in stock, could put one in the mail for you today. Or you should be able to get one at the Toyota dealer.
Lemme know.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids
Click to expand...
Sweet, put it in the mail asap!
Do you have my addy? Express?
I have some other misc I need from you, since I started tearing into other stuff to keep busy and take advantage of downtime!

I called my dealer for the oiler, and they didn't know what plastic gear box I wanted.

Thanks everyone!
 
OK.. everyone is going to hate me and disagree with what I'm about to say, but the following info is a fact based on my experience with driving over 200,000 miles on a H55F WITHOUT the plastic oiler cup.

It's not required.

Desired? Yes
Recommended? Yes
A good idea? Yes
A better oiling provision? Yes
An example of Toyota over-engineering? Yes
Required? No

When I purchased my H55F in 1989, it had to be imported directly from Japan. No one was selling it here in the USA. The Toyota parts person who ordered it for me did not know about the transfer oiler cup, nor did I. It never got ordered or installed when I put the thing back together (Doh!). The extra hole in the transfer case I did figure out to plug up though.

Fast forward 26 years later and over 200,000 miles.... I saw a picture of that little plastic oiler thingy on the web and thought WTF???

I just had my tranny out to replace the transfer seal and installed the new little plastic cup. Damn right I did.. and I inspected the 5th gear.
It has never popped out of gear since day one,
Has always been quiet and is quiet to this day,
Always has shifted perfectly into 5th
And upon inspection a few months ago................ it showed no signs of wear at all. None.


My conclusion based on this 26 year/200,000 inadvertent "test" due to a mistake is that the little plastic oiler cup is not required, but definitely a good thing to have.
I would recommend installing it for sure. But if it's not there, no harm, no foul. Can't argue with 200,000 miles.

==================

5th gear close up after 26yrs/200,000 miles (not all in 5th gear obviously). It looks almost new.

DSC01384-5TH-GEARS.jpg



5th synchro engagement teeth
5TH-engagement teeth.jpg
 
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Output, yours came with the JDM 'invisible' oiler cup. Now unobtanium... ;)

I was told the oiler cup is a kind of small reservoir that drips oil on the 5th gear under certain circumstances when not enough oil will splash. Dunno. Maybe Kalif pot-holes saved you, Output !!

Norway - the output seal you have is the upgraded (better) FJ62-style double seal. Use it without worry.

Georg is da man.
 
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Ooh, thanks again. So now my worries are over. Gears have not died due to lack of plastic squirt, and will survive forever since George ships the squirtplastic to Norway :D

I had an early 34 case on this rig, (but no brass bushings, all bearings)
Had a wide open hole for the fluid between box and transfer, moved to a late case with 38 and oiler provision, I'm upgrading the seal and new bearings.
This should last a longtime!
GL4 is stocked up.
Now, is there any creative way of getting the h55f's breathing capability into somewhat a snorkeling capability?
I got the rubber dust 'shield' with the rebuild kit, the one that goes over manual shift fork end (without vac shift) -I'm thinking something like that can seal the top of the h55f, and tap in a snorkeling hose to the top lid? Sounds smart?
I know I'm putting water into the box when crossing wet area.
 
The oiler funnels oil that's splashed around by 5th gear into the center bore of the countershaft creating a very slow but steady flow of oil. It's directed to the roller bearings that support the 5th gear on the countershaft via a small oil passage. Then the oil is free to flow thru the bearing and mingle with the rest.
The oiler is designed to keep the oil moving thru the bearing so any possible particles are flushed thru instead of staying in the bearing and possibly causing damage.
Essential? No
Couldn't hurt?! Absolutely

It's your call. I always have a few in stock and always install them.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids
 
Note that the bearing that is oiled by the cup is 5th gear on the shaft. When tranny is operating in 5th gear, the bearing doesn't spin, no need for lube. When operating in any other gear the bearing is spinning. The lower the gear, the faster the spin. If 5th is rarely used, no oiler is bad. If 5th is always used, oiler is less important.
 
Oiler funnel shipped out today. You should have it in 3-5 days ..... Please let me know when you get it.
Thanks Pal!

Georg @ Valley Hybrids
 
Man that sucks!!!!! Shipping was $50 and it was supposed to take 5 days.

At least it got there safely.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids
 
Ok. Back to tech .......

If you're rebuild the tcase ...... you'll have to change the pocket bearing in the front of the main shaft. On the split cases it's not a tough job because toyota learned from the earlier one-piece cases. The early shafts had a deeper "pocket" but the bearing bottomed out and the bore machined in the shaft leaves very little if any lip for a puller to grab the bearing. The later shafts ( all split cases ) have an additional recess cut I to them so the jaws of a puller can and will grab the bearing race so you can remove it.
No matter what year tcase I'm working on, I use a snap-on pilot bearing puller to remove these. Sometimes it'll grab the inner cage and destroy it and that's ok. It actually happens often enough for me to not even try pulling the bearing without removing the cage and rollers first. I just use a dental pic, pluck the cage out and then remove the rollers with a pencil magnet. After that the race usually comes right out.
If it doesnt, you have two options:
1) cut it out with a high speed burr. This takes time and precision as well as a burr in great shape. They break easily and most of the time you end up with a groove cut into the bore of the shaft. Not my preferred way to handle it.
2) use a welder and put two tack welds opposite each other on the inside of the race, then use your pilot bearing puller. Works every time.
But you have to be diligent or you'll weld the race to the shaft. They're less than 1/16" thick so turn your welder way down. We have a couple of Miller welders at the shop and for this job we use the 110 machine with .020 wire.

Hope that helps.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids
 
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