SoCal GenIII Vortec Project (1 Viewer)

[Elbert]

while our engines are not identical....FYI.... on my 5.7 vortec, the fan clutch does not come on some times until north of 215F...and when I say that I'm saying that I can hear it engage. The most common times I've heard this is off-road in 4wd under extended load conditions (hill climbing) etc. If in the above scenario...I would assume your fan clutch engaged at that temp (220F)and you heard the obvious "roaring" noise of the radiator fan and then then the drop in temps.

For various reasons I don't expect the fan clutch to be timed to a certain temp.....at times I've noticed where I though the fan would come on...it has not, and other times I've noticed the fan seemed to engage earlier than I expected. All of which were not over-temps but was north of 200F. I understand the fan clutch runs or operates off the temps..it senses of the air passing through the radiator and in my case the fan clutch sits rather close to my radiator core, where this is a negative or positive or even neutral impact to my cooling I don't know. I would prefer the fan clutch to be further to the rear of my radiator but at the present I'm not willing to move the engine back towards the firewall and make any other changes...since it runs ok.

My truck will cool down at extended idle and has good air flow through the radiator/condenser at low speed etc within nominal temps and load.
I would expect the fan clutch to be fully engaged at 220F and easily identified as long as engine rpm around 1500rpm or greater, moving at slow speed offroad.

 

[JohnCapoccia]

Hmmm. I'm wondering if my clutch fan is not working properly. I don't hear that "roar" that you speak of. How does one test it?

 

[dbleon]

220 is too high for normal operation.

The stock radiator IS sufficient. Your modifications to it, or other items may be causing problems.

Check correct coolant mixture... running too much coolant/water the mixture WILL not be as efficient at heat transfer.

Also the fan shroud design and fan clutch may be in play here.

Too many factors, try to narrow it down starting with the easy/cheap first.

 

[dbleon]

FWIW... here in Phoenix is has been +115* for the last few days. My scan gauge does not budge past 197*

Stock capacity (champion) radiator.

 

[JohnCapoccia]

FWIW... here in Phoenix is has been +115* for the last few days. My scan gauge does not budge past 197*

Stock capacity (champion) radiator.

My normal temp is about 195. The 220 happened climbing a very steep grade at high altitude (about 7-8000 ft) loaded with my rooftop tent and camping gear.

Coolant mix is correct, and I can't see how my shroud would be anything but optimal. I don't see the mods to the rad having any effect either, so that leaves the clutch fan.

I got a price quote from griffin today. I almost fell out of my chair.

 

[MANUCHAO]

I got a price quote from griffin today. I almost fell out of

I'll drop by with a few straps for when you decide to purchase that rad...
What price did they quote yah?
Im curious....

For what is worth i run a cheap champion as well...

I'll def be looking at the fan clutch as well.... mine OEM engine had an electric fan, but I did get a gm fan clutch with AC.

Whatever that means....

 

[JohnCapoccia]

I'll drop by with a few straps for when you decide to purchase that rad...
What price did they quote yah?
Im curious....

$775, not including customization. The top bib needs to be 1.25", and I'm guessing that the bottom needs to be moved to clear the fan. This is a direct replacement.

Griffin Exact Fit Radiator Details for Part Number: TOY-70011

 

[NCFJ]

I use the Griffin radiators because they are a quality product and they stand behind their stuff. All you need is the LS version of the direct fit model for the 62. These radiators will handle the HP of pretty much any LS motor you want to play with, up to 500 HP.

 

[dbleon]

My normal temp is about 195. The 220 happened climbing a very steep grade at high altitude (about 7-8000 ft) loaded with my rooftop tent and camping gear.

Coolant mix is correct, and I can't see how my shroud would be anything but optimal. I don't see the mods to the rad having any effect either, so that leaves the clutch fan.

I got a price quote from griffin today. I almost fell out of my chair.

Sounds like you right on track

 

[JohnCapoccia]

I use the Griffin radiators because they are a quality product and they stand behind their stuff. All you need is the LS version of the direct fit model for the 62. These radiators will handle the HP of pretty much any LS motor you want to play with, up to 500 HP.

OK, that's good to know. When I talked to the lady sales rep, she didn't seem to know that there is an "LS version". She just pointed me to the TOY-70011 and told me to specify the mods I require.

 

[daytonadogie]

I am using a Champion 3 core radiator too, and am very happy with it.

 

[Elbert]

Hmmm. I'm wondering if my clutch fan is not working properly. I don't hear that "roar" that you speak of. How does one test it?

For one you should hear the "roaring" noise when the fan clutch engages. Very obvious loud fan type noise...you can certainly hear this in an off-road condition. One test that is used on the GM fan clutches is to get the truck up to operatiing temp, thermostat open and fully up to temp....get engine nice and hot, then shut engine off and open hood and with the engine off spin the radiator fan by hand...if fan clutch is potentially working, the fan will be hard to spin and will have some good resistance to turning by hand, if bad the fan clutch will basically freely spin. WHile not exactly the same....the 5.7 vortec and new GM small blocks share the same type of fan clutch and fan (similar design).

Another way to test fan clutch by seat of the pants.....get out and give the truck hell.....numerous full throttle acceleration runs from a dead stop with a/c on...etc after first getting the truck to normal op temps......ambient temps in the 90's....fan clutch operation should be very obvious after the 4th or 5th hard run up to 70 or so....full throttle runs. You'll hear the radiator fan engage....."loud fan noise" and you'll notice the temps cool right off and drop just under or close to the thermostat rated temp. IF this is not happening then the fan clutch is suspect.

Unless the donor engine is super low miles I would put a new GM fan clutch on it....it is the "brains" of the cooling system. I only run GM fan clutches unless they are unavailable as I think they are the best quality items. You can see by the pic...the one on my truck is not a light duty item.

5.7 vortec version of GM fan and fan clutch......best cooling mod I've done beyond the custom fan shroud.

At 220F the fan clutch operation should be clearly obvious.....

 

[MANUCHAO]

Here yah go John.

I remembered I had ask NCFJ for the part number before...

Part number on the invoice is # 9D-29616-02

If you call, ask for Michele Morgan and tell her you want the LS version (her term) same as specs on order for HFS on invoice # 177970 I assume that they retain the drawings.

 

[JohnCapoccia]

Thanks Elbert, I'll test the fan next week. The truck is down while I'm waiting for Pacific Fabrication to check my PCM configuration.

Thanks for the part number Frank!

 

[pandasfj]

Hey John, how is it going with the new install? Are you still dealing with the ref.?

 

[EasternYeti]

I use the Griffin radiators because they are a quality product and they stand behind their stuff. All you need is the LS version of the direct fit model for the 62. These radiators will handle the HP of pretty much any LS motor you want to play with, up to 500 HP.

I have use the Griffin with my vortec, and while the quality has been kinda spotty, they have stood by their product.

I run a dual fan setup (Griffin LS combo unit) , and the first fan kicks on at 220 or so, I've never got it so hot the second fan has turned on. During stop and go traffic it will hit 220 at idle, but the fans cool it right down to 190 in about 1-2 minutes max

One thing I have noticed after going through three units, is that when they fail, they fail where the tubes connect to the radiators main structure (can't remember the correct terms). The welds are fragile.

The first radiator was a victim of UPS, slightly bent, the second was due to the expoxy welds breaking (due to either subtle flex or electrolysis). Now I'm on number three, and the entire unit has been grounded, and the radiator is properly secured, so we'll see how it goes

 

[JohnCapoccia]

Hey John, how is it going with the new install? Are you still dealing with the ref.?

Yeah, still struggling. I'm trying to get my O2 monitor to fire, and I still have to deal with the exhaust manifolds. Just trying to check off items one at a time. I didn't work on anything at all for about six months while on vacation and doing some stuff around the house. I'm back on it now, but I've got until November when I have to pass smog check to get registered. Other than that, the rig has been great. I've put about 5k miles on it.

How about you? Are you back on the road?

 

[JohnCapoccia]

I have use the Griffin with my vortec, and while the quality has been kinda spotty, they have stood by their product.

I run a dual fan setup (Griffin LS combo unit) , and the first fan kicks on at 220 or so, I've never got it so hot the second fan has turned on. During stop and go traffic it will hit 220 at idle, but the fans cool it right down to 190 in about 1-2 minutes max

One thing I have noticed after going through three units, is that when they fail, they fail where the tubes connect to the radiators main structure (can't remember the correct terms). The welds are fragile.

The first radiator was a victim of UPS, slightly bent, the second was due to the expoxy welds breaking (due to either subtle flex or electrolysis). Now I'm on number three, and the entire unit has been grounded, and the radiator is properly secured, so we'll see how it goes

So far, no issues with the Griffin. I installed a new clutch fan at the same time and the situation is much better. I've taken a few road trips and I don't remember the temps getting much over 200 under any circumstance.

 

[megolfer]

I would go yo a different ref. There are plenty of people who have been passed with the manifolds you are using.

 

[pandasfj]

Sorry to hear that,wish I new more mechanical to help you out but if you need any help on something, lmk. I did finally get my front end done but still need to wire up my front locker. I ended up taking it for a small drive and my fuel pump started going out on me. I dropped the LR tank and replaced it. Then not more than 20 miles of driving the new Walbro pump died on me. Just got it replaced again with a good after market pump mid December and it works a lot better. Now I can concentrate on my interior but work really gets in way as far as getting to work on it.