Here I thought that "scrapdaddy" must've been you're alter ego, considering the overkill inherent to both. Hahaha.
Edited: that I mimicked on the 80 and will be mimicking on the 76 Pig. Hahahaha.
Builds SLOW 71 (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter scrapdaddy
- Start date
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Here I thought that "scrapdaddy" must've been you're alter ego, considering the overkill inherent to both. Hahaha.
Edited: that I mimicked on the 80 and will be mimicking on the 76 Pig. Hahahaha.
- Thread starter
- #722
Lou,
Thanks for the compliments, I go back to your build many times.
As far as the exhaust, the headers are ceramic coated and when the pipes get bent, they will be also. I hope to be able to fit a heat shield in as well.
Some say overkill, I say do what you can now and then enjoy it.
You ever miss the 55 or think about doing another one?
Thanks for the compliments, I go back to your build many times.
As far as the exhaust, the headers are ceramic coated and when the pipes get bent, they will be also. I hope to be able to fit a heat shield in as well.
Some say overkill, I say do what you can now and then enjoy it.
You ever miss the 55 or think about doing another one?
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
Reading this thread and seeing all your question and the shocking indexing of scrapdaddy's coatings. You'll be right there with us
Lou
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
Good to hear regarding the exhaust .... you're doing it right ... I do miss the 55 but I'm about to drop a 2UZ Slee style in my 80 so I'll be tapped out for a while...but I also said I would never spend that much again and my 80 will be in the same territory as the 55 after the swap.. so we'll see
Lou
Counting down the days on the Pig, Lou.
Already there on the 80, just need to finalize paint, so I can replace all the glass seals, sunroof, weather stripping then she'll be tomb like quiet.....except for the hum of the Krawlers.
Hahaha.
- Thread starter
- #726
Got my Wildwood stuff today, so I can run the brake lines. I'll need to make a bracket for the proportioning valve and I'm adding a 10 lb residual pressure valve for the rear drum brakes.
Am I doing this right?
I've been doing some horse trading with Mel Lowe and I think I got the better deal.
I now have a combination FJ80 and 60 air filter housing, that will work out great with the vortec motor. I'll need to move the battery tray to make it all fit. Going to be the hot setup.
Thanks again, Mel
Am I doing this right?
I've been doing some horse trading with Mel Lowe and I think I got the better deal.
I now have a combination FJ80 and 60 air filter housing, that will work out great with the vortec motor. I'll need to move the battery tray to make it all fit. Going to be the hot setup.Thanks again, Mel
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- Thread starter
- #727
Made alittle bracket for the proportioning valve. I'm not sure if this is right, I believe the residual valve should be mounted next to the master cylinder, then the porprotioning valve. Correct.
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- Thread starter
- #728
I've been doing alot of little work, nothing of any interest. Got my hinges done and ready for paint. The bracket for the proportioning valve has been powder coated and started on the brake line. Alot of bends.
Without getting too chatty, I won't be around for a few days, going to northern Iowa. A few weeks ago we tangled with a tractor trailer that jack knifed on a two lane highway. He took out the side of my truck and livestock trailer.
Nobody hurt, not even the goats in the trailer. The truck bed was built in Iowa, it's an Alum. dump bed, so we're driving up and getting it rebuilt.
I'll be back!
Without getting too chatty, I won't be around for a few days, going to northern Iowa. A few weeks ago we tangled with a tractor trailer that jack knifed on a two lane highway. He took out the side of my truck and livestock trailer.
Nobody hurt, not even the goats in the trailer. The truck bed was built in Iowa, it's an Alum. dump bed, so we're driving up and getting it rebuilt.
I'll be back!
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- Thread starter
- #729
We got back last night and the truck bed is all fixed, just like new. Now back to work!
Jumped around again and started to repair the door cracks. Before I start to weld, I need some opinions on if this plate will work. I need to put in some rosette holes, but I think it will work.
Question: Will I need to space out the other hinge, the same amount, in order to keep it square.
I used 16 gauge sheet metal, hope it's strong enough.
Good to be back!
Jumped around again and started to repair the door cracks. Before I start to weld, I need some opinions on if this plate will work. I need to put in some rosette holes, but I think it will work.
Question: Will I need to space out the other hinge, the same amount, in order to keep it square.
I used 16 gauge sheet metal, hope it's strong enough.
Good to be back!
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That's kind of what I did. I drilled a few holes on the interior of the plate to create an area to weld it to the underlying metal (like a spot weld). I'm not sure if it's necessary but ....
- Thread starter
- #731
NikP,
You did right with those holes. They will give that whole plate more strength. I didn't post a picture, but I put five holes in mine, besides the hinges bolt holes.
Did you do anything with the top hinge. I'm not sure if I need to space that hinge out with some 16 gauge.
You did right with those holes. They will give that whole plate more strength. I didn't post a picture, but I put five holes in mine, besides the hinges bolt holes.
Did you do anything with the top hinge. I'm not sure if I need to space that hinge out with some 16 gauge.
No I figured I had at least that much adjustment with the hinge bolts.
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
all things considered, you didn't change the pivot point location or hinge thickness, providing you had the hinge pad milled 1/16"...the door should stay "square" to the pillar post, NO? and Nik is right about the mounting hole slop- there's plenty of adjust there. even if the door pivoted up a hair when open, the closed position is what matters most, right?
- Thread starter
- #734
Here's how it looks after welding. I didn't want to get too crazy with the heat.
About the thickness of the plate, instead of milling the bottom hinge, would I be better off adding a plate to the top hinge. That way I'd have all the hinges beefed up and sitting square in the frame.
Just do all of them and be done with it. What's everybody think?
Is the effort worth it?
About the thickness of the plate, instead of milling the bottom hinge, would I be better off adding a plate to the top hinge. That way I'd have all the hinges beefed up and sitting square in the frame.
Just do all of them and be done with it. What's everybody think?
Is the effort worth it?
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Yes it is worth it! Aligning your hinge pins on the same axis will make your doors smoother swinging and you won't have to worry about weather or not they will align. Plus you have them apart already.
simple is usually right... 1973 fj55
- Thread starter
- #736
Napster,
That's what I'm thinking. Shouldn't have to worry about the hinges for awhile. Not looking forward to all the extra work and time, but it is the SLOW 71! Nothing but time.
That's what I'm thinking. Shouldn't have to worry about the hinges for awhile. Not looking forward to all the extra work and time, but it is the SLOW 71!
Nothing but time.
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
Napster,
That's what I'm thinking. Shouldn't have to worry about the hinges for awhile. Not looking forward to all the extra work and time, but it is the SLOW 71!
An ounce of prevention...
This could be done on all the hinge lands and be adjusted via the pillar side bolt/alignment hole slop. you may loose a bit of overall adjustability in the doors by the thickness of the plates essentially pushing each door back a 1/16" when closed, and therefore leaving less forward adjustability>prolly no BIG DEAL
. Plus you get the beefed hinge pads...NOW, I still don't see how the pivot point changes in relation to the door or the frame if the pad of the hinge were milled for the thickness of the re-enforcement at the door side. If this were the only door requiring repair, I'd think about the shave on the hinge; if just one more hinge MIGHT need repair, I'd plate all the hinge lands and adjust at the pillar side...clear as mud? YMMV, just my 2 bits
- Thread starter
- #738
If I replate all hinge pads and run into an alignment problem, then shave the hinges down. If no problems, all's good and I have the beefed pads all around. Done deal.
I agree with Napster, worthy of the effort.
Thanks Guys!
Edit: When welding up the pad, I put a wet rag on the inside of the door and had no problems with fire. I saved the LSkin!
I agree with Napster, worthy of the effort.
Thanks Guys!
Edit: When welding up the pad, I put a wet rag on the inside of the door and had no problems with fire. I saved the LSkin!
- Thread starter
- #739
It's been two years since I bought the SLOW 71 and I thought you might like some of the past history on it.https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pig-preservation-society/118755-pigster-buildup.html . I'm extremely happy with the body and all the rare parts, that came with it. Hopefully in the end, I will do it proud.
It's been a long two years with another year to complete. Like we tell each other, one bite at a time!
Update on the doors. Almost done with the reinforcement of the hinge pad area. I'm doing all the doors, as I found two bad ones.
It's been a long two years with another year to complete. Like we tell each other, one bite at a time!
Update on the doors. Almost done with the reinforcement of the hinge pad area. I'm doing all the doors, as I found two bad ones.
- Thread starter
- #740
Finally got the trans cover mounted and all shifter boots on. You would think that would be an easy and quick job.
I have no expereince with an H55 transmission, but does the shifter look right to you guys. I never seen a shifter angled to the driver like that. It shifts fine, so...
I have no expereince with an H55 transmission, but does the shifter look right to you guys. I never seen a shifter angled to the driver like that. It shifts fine, so...
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