Builds SLOW 71 (2 Viewers)

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I've got a whole list of people that can confirm I'm an idiot. :) I've repacked many, many wheel bearings over the years, but that doesn't mean I can't mess one up, who knows. I've got all Winter, let's start with getting the housing checked and go from there. I just appreciate all you guys even thinking about this, it really helps getting my mind wrapped around what happened.
 
RUSH55 said:
Yeah, I’d never insinuate that Ron doesn’t know what he’s doing, or that he’s an idiot.
I’m looking at 7 years and 49,500 miles of no issues, and then a couple of maintenance procedures and a locker change, and then 500 miles later there’s a catastrophe. It’s just what I’m seeing. I would absolutely hope to be wrong.
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I would never imply that!! Hope that's not what ya thinking 🤔🧐😘
 
Sounds like you have a plan and I'm sure you will get it sorted out.

I have no experience with this manufacturer, but do know they have a good reputation in the industry. That said, even with a jig, if they didn't follow the steps Jim mentioned, some degree of warping can occur. What is their QA process? We don't know.

Early in my career I did metallurgical failure analysis, and in many cases you need to look past the obvious (snapped axle) to figure out the root cause. Without seeing everything, the best we have is the wear on the splines. This is probably an indication of the original problem - which could be bearings or misalignment. A metallurgical analysis on the shaft itself could also offer information. Just armchair quarterbacking here.
 
samc2447 said:
Sounds like you have a plan and I'm sure you will get it sorted out.

I have no experience with this manufacturer, but do know they have a good reputation in the industry. That said, even with a jig, if they didn't follow the steps Jim mentioned, some degree of warping can occur. What is their QA process? We don't know.

Early in my career I did metallurgical failure analysis, and in many cases you need to look past the obvious (snapped axle) to figure out the root cause. Without seeing everything, the best we have is the wear on the splines. This is probably an indication of the original problem - which could be bearings or misalignment. A metallurgical analysis on the shaft itself could also offer information. Just armchair quarterbacking here.
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Ooooo!! A volunteer 🤔🧐😉😘🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
 
So, I talked with the custom axle shop and they don't have the right fixture/pucks for a Toyota axle which would cost me a lot to have made in order to check the housing. Before I got into the whole story he said the bearings failed because of lubrication. He says he sees it all the time with rear full float axles, not enough oil, bearings get destroyed and the shaft snaps. I said, no mine are grease packed bearings and he really went off. I then mentioned the housing was a Diamond housing and he said those are top tier and don't come bent, period.

I've decided to forego checking the housing and move on. I did some interweb searching and came right back to MUD on running oil instead of grease. I think @J Mack ran with oil for awhile, no? The 80 series guys have had some problems snapping shafts and losing the tire because of failed bearings and going to oil as well as a lot of Aussies. I'm willing to try removing the inner axle seals and letting the diff. oil lube the wheel bearings hopefully the outer seal doesn't leak too bad.

I didn't realize the rear axle bearings in a full float were something to check more often, I thought every two years was good to repack, so maybe I was at fault, either way it will get rebuilt and try again. I enjoy trying new things on the wagon, some work some don't, just part of the hobby to me. I don't like endangering other people on the road, so I don't want repeat this problem.

Anyone have some input on running gear oil instead of grease in the rear axle bearings?
 
hmmm. Millions of Cruisers out there with full-float rear's running grease. Also millions of domestic 1-ton trucks running oil. I don't think one or the other is right or wrong
 
cruisermatt said:
hmmm. Millions of Cruisers out there with full-float rear's running grease. Also millions of domestic 1-ton trucks running oil. I don't think one or the other is right or wrong
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That's what I'm learning, figure I might as well try running oil and see. Either way I know I'll be checking the bearings after every trip.
 
Not an axle expert so this is more of a question. The semi float axle has an outer bearing and ff has the 2 hub bearings. So why is it that a semi float bearing doesn't have the same issue with lubrication while presumably taking on more forces than the FF?
 
Oil verses grease I guess. I got a full float thinking I wouldn't have to worry about losing a tire if I snapped an axle. :meh:
 
Huh, now that’s a weird twist.
Every piece of big equipment I’ve ever worked on that had a FF axle relied on oil lubrication from the diff. On the flip side, many FF axled smaller equipment (Dana) the bearings were greased. Either way they have lube. All front axle vehicle axle bearings use grease, so what’s the difference? Big rig double taper roller hubs do take oil, possibly for easier maintenance, but either way…
As long as the inner seals can seal against oil it should work.
What grease did you use? High temp? Marine?
 
I'm running gear oil only in two 80 series FF axles. At least 60k on one without leakage, 15k on the other. I leave out the inner axle seal, fill the axle housing, tilt the axle so that the bearings on one side will be lubed then give the other side a good tilt. Add gear oil to fill to capacity.
 
Update... As you know I've been waiting for some time for axle shafts since Oct. Front Range Offroad says I'm in " Queue " 🤷‍♂️ for shafts and RVC said they had some problems and my order got lost, so it will be 6 to 8 weeks before they make me a set of shafts. I've two sets ordered and still can't get something done. Anyway, Winter is here in MO. and starting to focus on shop stuff. I've got a list of things to repair or replace, etc. that should keep me busy until the shafts get here.
Here's what today produced. No reason for the driver's side grill other than to match passenger side.

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Another ten pounds added to the pig.
 
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